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4th gen mot

Johnburnt

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Location
Newcastle
Car
Cb3
Time for the falcon to get on the road so mot time and I'm not hiding anything from the mot'r so I have removed all covers rear carpet
the day before the mot I had some time to take the accord out and free the brakes and clean them up a bit as it hasn't driven for a while just going into second gear and phaarrrppp the exhaust came off In 2 places so after making the exhaust back up and putting it back on (without cat)took it to the mot at 9 in the morning and as I was expecting it failed
On a few things (there was 12 on the sheet but some are related)
i did ask him to pay special attention to the front as it were the first time I have driven her and I could hear feel summit
1 nearside headlight too low
2 nearside main beam to low
3 nearside Suspension arm exesive play
4 nearside flexi ferrule corroded
5 offside flexi ferrule corroded
6 exhaust emissions co2 too high was .38 should be .30
7 nearside rear brake poor
8 offside rear brake poor
9 nearside handbrake poor
10 offside handbrake poor
11 parking brake below requirements
12 front brake imbalance
So it was getting new discs pads shoes pipes and both top suspension arms I might swell do both sides
I will refit the cat and reseal the manifold as it was blowing a bit I reckon it would have passed if the manifold wasn't blowing I'll have to make a gasket .
And re align the headlamp
The window regulator came today also so it won't be long I've a few cars to look at in-between
It may sound bad but these things are easily sorted and were planned to be done in the future anyway looks like I'll wait a bit for new tires
 
These discs are a bit of a pain to remove to say the least. They are like classic minis mgs ect where you have to pull the hub nut off to get to the disc
And as I found out yesterday need to be pressed in and out ruining the bearings in the process
So because I haven't got a press yet ( next on the list now) I thought it is easier to replace if i can the full setup in one hub bearing disc calliper ball joint
luckily I found a ce model in a local scrapper just came in and pulled the hubs ect off in half an hour and gave they guy 100 bucks for the lot including driveshafts ,it had just failed a mot on brake pipes but had new discs pads and I ***ume because of this new bearings
So the bloke didn't believe I had taken them off a car in that time so I had to show him the car it were only 3 nuts ball joint,top joint and track rod cut the abs cable and brake pipe and pulled the whole lot off in one
It was all going well until I was putting all the stuff I got on my bench and knocked my 1 inch breaker bar with socket rolled off and broke my little toe
So before I was going to take my shoe off I decided to fit all the stuff I got as the car were still on axle stands (I can't leave half jobs) so I have replaced both top arms, hub, disc, calliper which I cleaned up and the pistons are still shiny as new I've cleaned up the abs sensors and fitted new a new flex to the nearside. The other side is done apart from the flexi as I need to replace the solid pipe to the abs unit and at this time the pain were too much so off to hospital I went after putting wheels back and tightening the hub nuts .and I've crushed my little toe into a few bits
So I've gotta stay off it for a bit so tomorrow I will replace the rear shoes and look at the wheel cylinders as I can sit down doing this and maybe adjust the head light if it ain't to fiddley but the new brake lines will have to wait.
I've got till next Monday I think for re mot so a day off or two won't be too bad
At least the mps passed it's second mot this week so thats less to do and the tyres are good for half a year
 
not too bad on the old fail list, mainly brakes, which always go bad on these if left untended.

Whats a ferrule?

And good effort on the 6th gen brake swap, i neally went down that route a while back, stupid HOD setup on the cb well the rears are DOH so thats ok.
 
not too bad on the old fail list, mainly brakes, which always go bad on these if left untended.

Whats a ferrule?

And good effort on the 6th gen brake swap, i neally went down that route a while back, stupid HOD setup on the cb well the rears are DOH so thats ok.
I was planning on replacing brakes/lines but needed a mot so I can road test her legally and get them to temperature
The exhaust was me being a tad lazy I thought paste would do enough to seal the joints but no problem I will sort that out and replacing the cat should be no problem as I was going to do that at some point
I didn't even check the headlight height
And as for the brakes as soon as I left the garage to go to mot I knew they were pony and 40 min of driving didn't sort it and it was a bit late to take em apart
the ferrule is where the rubber hose meets the metal fitting(apologies for the terms I use )
Once I get a press I will overhaul the ones I have taken off and fit new discs bearings and ball joints them so I can swap for new next time
I plan on replacing all rubber parts on this car some with poly bushes I fancy making a rear strut bar and removable cross member for the rear like a cb7tuners members
I've done a little research on these and I found that some parts were used on the ce or 6th gen im sure most of the rear suss is the same
One thing is you can tell that the Japanese made the cb and not so much the ce as the bolts are smaller poorer quality and they used less of them
The cb have a upper ball joint guard which I thought was nicely done but not so on the later ones so I will use grease and self amalgamating tape like I do on my minis
I hope to have a spare set of service items callipers wishbones exhaust wheels ect so I can keep her on the road for a long time
 
Hod doh is that hub over disk. And disk drum over hub?


I replaced a few bushes, not all, one set of bushes i would love to replace is the trailing arm bushes, if you work out how to get new ones, without buying the arms let me know!!

Americans call it HOR (Hub Over Rotor) here we call it HOD Hub Over Disc which is standard cb disc setup. ROH or DOH (Disc Over Hub) the CE onwards setup. Theres lots of threads in cb7tuner about this setup they use Acura CL 99 parts and/or 2.2vtec Prelude parts, but the 6th gen accord parts are easier to get for us here, as you have just found out.
 
Funny you would say that I want to do the trailing arms next I'll take some off a scrapper car and I'll let you know how I get on
 
I know why the rear brakes were pony
The callipers are seized a bit and it's taken a day to get them off think cadbury must have supplied the bolts for the calliper and sliders and the last person to work on her must have not heard of cleaning or lubricating
I have had to make new bolts up and remove some of the shroud on the hub for the larger headed calliper bolts I had to grind off the sliders from the callipers and make new bolts 4 hours work for 4 bolts just like the classic stuff I work on
And the carrier where the pads go needs a good clean derusting
So back to the scrap yard and I have removed the rears off a 6th gen and some bits off a rover 600(shims and pads discs) and they are soaking in cleaner/oil (rubber friendly) the callipers not the discs
I think I will get some new ones later on
It's given me a good chance to get a good look at the rear with wheels off apart from a few pipes and bushes all seems ok
Tomorrow is the day I will fit all these and make the brake pipes up
 
Took her to the mot today after fitting everything and bleeding the brakes
And it passed
The brakes are spot on now the mot guy was pleased the machine read:
120 rears
110 handbrake
320 fronts
So I took her out and gave it the beans it seems like it's in vtec all the time but that must be the bigger engine intake and the cam setup
It's lovely to drive and goes through the gears really well
I'm quite impressed
Handling wise it is a bit soft at the front but that would be a easy fix I reckon keeping the front stiffer and lower than the rear would be ideal and not too much of a drop but bigger wheels and wider better tires I just want to drive it above 4k all the time
 
excellent news man!

Happy for you.

it seems like it's in vtec all the time
Dam straight!

yeah a some suspension mods and it transforms it.

Ive altered my rear suspension today, feels much better.
 
Cheers man I'm proper chuffed next is the minteg and model t rod Should fly through as they are tax exempt so no emission test
I'm loving the accord it's got a lovely balance of torque and power
I drove a friends type r civic with k20 back from Manchester way and I was a bit dissapointed compared to my friends 1.6 jdm feels tuned eg civic it didnt seem to have the guts and the vtec was a bit to jumpy and less agressive ,but this f20 is really nice and compared to a mk2 golf gti it seems more refined
I'm just gutted I'd havnet owned one earlier
 
Cheers man I'm proper chuffed next is the minteg and model t rod Should fly through as they are tax exempt so no emission test
I'm loving the accord it's got a lovely balance of torque and power
I drove a friends type r civic with k20 back from Manchester way and I was a bit dissapointed compared to my friends 1.6 jdm feels tuned eg civic it didnt seem to have the guts and the vtec was a bit to jumpy and less agressive ,but this f20 is really nice and compared to a mk2 golf gti it seems more refined
I'm just gutted I'd havnet owned one earlier

yep!

But now you have one, the addiction begins mhahaha
 
I have just replaced the gearbox oil with Honda mtf 3 and it has made the gear changes smoother no crunches now
However I get a slight notchy feeing into every gear I understand these have cable type gear linkages is there a way to adjust these types
I don't think it's gearbox mount related or engine mount related
Cheers John
 
the gear linkage that attaches to the top of gear box, near the air filter below the water pipe. Degrease that and then wd40 it, helped for me, my gears are smooth. Honda gear oil is far the best good choice also.
 
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