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6th Gen Accord Coupe PAS pipes

Sphinx_T

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6th Gen Accord
Hello all, as some may know, I've recently posted questions about PAS fluid and lines. This is all because one of my pipes has rusted and started the leak :(

Before we get into that, a little pic of a job I did a few weeks ago; the sunroof drain tubes had leaked previously and warped the headliner. It's never going to be perfect but it's a lot better than it was.
IMAG0092_zps8d2a448e.jpg

Soaked with watered-down PVA glue, clamped with some wood and left to dry.

Now for the big job.
The PAS fluid dropped all of a sudden which I topped up (all the while wondering where the fluid could have gone...). I jacked the car front up to bleed it and as I was turning the wheel I saw a drip from the front, right, rear corner of the subframe. I looked into it and it turns out one of the pipes around the rack had rusted and started to leak :frown The only way to get to said pipe is to drop the front subframe; Two of the engine mounts are on the subframe so I made this support:
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Just to make the job easier, every nut and bolt was a rusted mess :(
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As you can see, the subframe is in two parts.

It's the rotten looking pipe in the bottom of this picture, held onto the rotten looking subframe with the rotten looking bracket...
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The top pipe is rusty but not leaking, but I'm going to replace it for peace of mind.
I took the rack out of the frame to get good access to everything, mainly to clean up and weld, but what a pain in the ****! To remove the rack you need to remove the track rod ***emblies and wind the rack all the way in to get the clearance. This of course renders all my markings on the column useless as everything's been moved lol so I may have to remove the steering wheel and put it back on straight once everything is tracked up again.

Now, because I'm me, I couldn't stand all the rust so everything has been scrubbed and painted:
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I'll update this again with more progress as and when it happens.
 
wow this is serious engineering bro. Top marques for creativity and fabrication. Can't wait to read the next bit
 
Cheers guys :)
Little update; the pipe that's burst is £219 from the dealer...if you can get it (I was told it was unavailable), so I'm having it repaired. Also, the smaller simpler pipe is £29 from the dealer which I think is a bit of a con for such a simple thing, so I'm having a new one made at the same time.
 
Update time.

Everything has been cleaned and painted. In this case, I used 1 coat of Po15 (as I've been really impressed with the stuff) and then one spray coat of tough satin black (as it's cheaper than the Po15!).
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Here's the repaired pipe:
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As the original bracket could no longer be used, I modified it and used another area of the subframe to bolt it to. By luck there was another threaded bracket holder that I could use (I ***ume for other pipework brackets, perhaps on the V6 model)
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Here's a pic of the repair patch. There was a rusty section on the frame that had created a hole so I cut it all out and welded in a 'patch'. Not an invisible repair like I would normally prefer, but perfectly sound:
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While I was doing all this, I decided to take off the PAS fluid cooler, scrub it down and give it a coat of Por15 also:
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That's it really. All that's left is to fit it all.
 
I can remember when I did work like that on a car that I had nearly 40 years ago, and I still have it because of that work.
I never took any pics.

Fantastic to see those pics of yours.
 
Thanks Brian.
I don't mean to sound 'off' but this is how i tackle any job on a car. If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right etc. I won't see any of this back when I come to sell it (which won't be very long now) but I feel better knowing that the next owner shouldn't have anything to worry about. I've got much further on my BMW and I don't see myself keeping that for 40 years either lol
 
No not "off" at all , makes sense , its a way of doing things, I wish my sons had the same mindset ;)
 
Epic, just epic dude! Many man points your way mate!
 
Cheers guys. I'm mid way through refitting it all this weekend. Going to fit enough to make it run and check for leaks (hope to christ there aren't any!) Then hopefully get it Mot'd.
 
Update time:

It's 99% back together :)
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I had to put more back together in order to run/test it than I initially thought, so it was nerve racking checking for leaks! Thankfully everything seems to be holding.

The new piece of pipe obviously isn't factory and sits up against the chassis leg when fitted, so i put a sleeve of hose over it to protect it:
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Next up is to fit the steeling column trim back in, get it tracked up and MOT'd. Fingers crossed on that one!
 
Thanks Andy. I'll elaborate on the drama that was Friday.

I should start by saying that I was working this weekend so needed a car, and the Volvo's MOT ran out earlier today. Failing was not an option.
The MOT was booked for 4pm and I wanted to get the tracking done beforehand as I'd done it by eye when putting it together lol. So I got back home at 1:15 (I finish early on Fridays) and had everything planned in 15 minute sections. First off was to fill it with coolant and bleed it (had to fix a weeping connection after seeing it leaked when I fired it up last time to bleed the PAS). As it's running I figure I'll wind it from lock to lock a few more time just to be sure...when I heard a big scrape/clunk on full lock! Had a look around and turns out I'd put the track-rod ends on the wrong sides :blush: so the bend in them that's designed to miss the inside edge of the wheel on full lock was actually clashing with it lol. OK so I can swap them over no worries, adds a little bit of time so I rang the tracking place to let them know I was running late.
With the track rod ends swapped and everything looking OK, I switched it off, put it back on the ground and used my little tyre inflater to pump up all the tyres...it plugs into the cigarette lighter....
So that was done, I clear up quickly, open the garage door, get in, go to start it......flat battery! s****! I call the tracking place to let them know I won't be there at all. Then I realise my battery charger is over at my parents place, so I jump in the Volvo (which made it home on fumes to begin with) and head there, having to first stop and get some petrol. As I arrive I realise the battery charger is in the boot of the BMW (on my parents drive) and the keys for it are...at my place. I rack my brains and realise I have an old crappy charger in the attic somewhere there so dig that out and head back. As it's charging I'm running through a check list and realise that when I started taking it apart I thought I'd have to remove the driveshafts, so I'd hammered the little securing 'dents' out of the hub nuts in preparation, only to not undo them later. So I jack it back up and bash those back in again.
THEN. FINALLY. It starts and I can drive it to the MOT with absolutely zero shake down time :frown
But as I say, it passed :D

I kid you not, I was getting soo stressed that my left eye started twitching :hihi
 
Hi hughezee, I've seen your messages...all 6 of them lol
In reply, the replacement pipe was made up by a hydraulic hose company called Pirtek. I took the whole piece to them and they cut the rusted section out the spliced in this new piece.
 
Hi hughezee, I've seen your messages...all 6 of them lol
In reply, the replacement pipe was made up by a hydraulic hose company called Pirtek. I took the whole piece to them and they cut the rusted section out the spliced in this new piece.

Hi there, sorry there's an issue with P.M''s, I’m facing this repair for a friend I’ve been researching this hose section as he’s on a budget, I've found a couple in the USA but like i said he's on budget :rolleyes:

Thanks for the info though, so looks like I'm gonna have to make a new 8mm copper section myself :lol:
 
Pirtek hose on a Honda, they sponsor Andy Jordan, Pirtek Honda Civic in the BTCC.

Great job, get some bilt hamber products on those rusty suspension arms and calipers.
 
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