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8th gen rear brakes

vile

vile

T A Terminator
Staff member
Messages
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Location
Bristol
Car
8th gen 2.4 Manual
As the ***le says what type brakes do we have on our 8th gen accords.
I had my brakes replaced at HH yesterday and was very shocked to find out what the rear set up was.
On my car a 2.4 saloon was a push back caliper piston and separate brake shoes for the handbrake.
This set up is seen in the 7th gen tourer so shocked to see this on the 8th gen saloon.
Also this set up is only apparent on what spec the car is also like twin pot front calipers that mine has as well
 
Yep I've heard that also. The handbrake can be shoes inside the rear disk (a la BMW...aargh!) or cable operated on the disk calipers. Not sure what mine is yet.

I know the 2.4 has twin pot front calipers, the 2.0 only has single.... :(
 
Looks like the handbrake on the 2.0 petrol is on the rear caliper, operated by a levers, shows it on Lings parts diagrams.
 
Interesting I'm thinking then its only the 2.4 and 180bhp type S diesel has this set up
 
Interesting guys can we get some details from all 8th gen owners what there brake set up is.
Also if your car is a saloon or tourer
 
2008 2.2 iDtec estate. rear discs with shoes for the handbrake. I recently got quickfit to change the pads (they have a lifetime guarantee for the ownership of the car and replace free of charge) They had a nightmare getting the right pads and shoes as there are lots of different ones for the 8th gen. They had the parts guy deliver 3 different sets.
 
I just had a look at mine today 2011 auto tourer, handbrake as the 7th gen tourer i.e. a drum on the disc, rear caliper was a little different in that it required both slide pin screws removing, instead of just the lower one on the 7th, and the inner pad has locating springs that fit inside the push back pot. Looking at after market replacements not sure what is required. As alreay stated it could be a lottery, and if you are a diy'er may be a nightmare getting the right ones unless you shop at Honda.
 
I'm not the only one feeling the rear end brake pain then:

Honda advised that the rear brakes were down to 80%, fair enough they were said my car guy in Leicester.

Ordered the pads, Mon, arrived Wed.

Went to my car guy today to find that they're not the right type even though I put all the correct details in the Europarts site.
Noticed she wasn't as free wheeling as before the pad change on the way home.

Got home to the pungent smell of burning from the OSR wheel, yep she's binding. Grrrrr!
 
FarHanSolo said:
I'm not the only one feeling the rear end brake pain then:

Honda advised that the rear brakes were down to 80%, fair enough they were said my car guy in Leicester.

Ordered the pads, Mon, arrived Wed.

Went to my car guy today to find that they're not the right type even though I put all the correct details in the Europarts site.
Noticed she wasn't as free wheeling as before the pad change on the way home.

Got home to the pungent smell of burning from the OSR wheel, yep she's binding. Grrrrr!

That could be down to excessive paint on the bearing surfaces, like we used to get on the 7's, take them off and file the touching faces. Let us know what you find please.
Click to expand...
 
Take them off? You're ***uming some degree of motor vehicle competence. I can just about spell my own name. Lol but your idea has merit. So are you coming down to MK anytime soon?
 
Will be in AMPTHILL June but by that time your brakes will "burned out", LOL. Did the new ones not match the old patterns? if so then get them back to your "Car" guy,
 
Oh I see. Anyhoo, it appears to be a caliper seizure, aw snap!

I'm just going to park her up and enjoy the saloon for a bit rather than instigate further frustration this weekend.
 
After my seized caliper, I'd advise changing the rear pads sooner.
The further the piston moves out the more likely it is to seize.
2.0 petrol has caliper handbrake, the diesel's and 2.4 have drum brake handbrake.
 
The pads were changed last Friday my friend, it's a new/second-hand caliper I'm struggling to find at the mo.

Luckily I've still got my 7th gen saloon to mince around in
 
You also need to remove the stainless shims on the carrier & wirebrush the casting & wipe clean the shims as these can build up rust & dirt between the two & cause the pads to stick happened on both my 7th & 8th gen accord so i clean them every pad change.
 
Rich,

Many thanks. I will need to get a second opinion to make sure it is the caliper and not the caliper piston. The piston is a fare price too.
 
FarHanSolo said:
Brakes now all sorted. Took it to my local tech and he sorted all four brakes, for a tenner!
Click to expand...
? So what was wrong with them
 
All the gubbins: calipers, pistons, clips etc just needed a good lube.

I used to take my Honda Prelude to him in the 90s and as I moved away from the city completely forgot I had a local mechanic. He's looked after my brother and his cars for over 25+ years.
 
Hi lads,
I've got this rear brake issue as well atm, I only got my car 2 weeks ago! Brake was binding when I got it, problem is dealer is 150 miles away, I've got it booked into the local branch next Friday, although im not confident its going get fixed properly.
My car is a 2011 type S tourer, 2.2 Dtec, manual, rear brakes both(I think) binding. Dealer is a nationwide well known one, but as I say, im pretty sure im going to be fobbed off with some rubbish.
I'm trying to work out in my head if its the calipers that are binding or the handbrake/brake shoes etc?? I've not been using the handbrake till it goes in next week.
I was a mechanic in a former life so could easily have a look myself, but having just paid a load of cash for the car they should be fixing it I reckon.
My cars also got quite a pronounced pull to the right while driving along in a straight line, I've asked them to look at that as well,
cheers
 
Dear Yam66,

First of all congratulations on your Type S Wagon, nice I'm not well jel at all, lol

I hope this little episode doesn't put you off Accord, she's a good old girl really and usually low maintenance. A bit like my wife.

Anyhoo, 150 miles is a long way to travel, unless you're getting a Stage 1, EGR off, DPF removal jobby of those Premier Tuning fellas.

Pull to the right sounds like front brakes and I'm totally not a mechanic and never have been.

If the dastardly national garage folk don't sort you out and you don't mind getting your overall back on, cleaning up all the moving parts as best you can (some have suggested taking a few mm of the pads themselves but that can't be right!) may be an option for you.
 
:lol: Farhan, your reply made me laugh,

no I've not been put off....yet lol

as for the stage 1 etc, yes I really fancy that and its probably something I will do in the future, the car is quite low mileage (16k) so I think I'll leave it standard for the time being, plus the fact im in the far north east of Scotland so a trip to the guys at premier is something that will take a bit of organising.

if I have no joy at the garage its going to an independent garage in Aberdeen. The garage is manned by ex Honda mechanics, they specialise in jap cars, great reviews, and my father uses them and rates them highly. Im just trying the dealer I bought if from first as I don't want to pay!

I wont be taking any mm's off the pads, theres very little left on them as it is :lol:
 
How worn are the pads? if your handy with spanners save yourself a trip, the job is very simple, jack up remove wheel, axel stand for safety, then let off hand brake, and spin the hub, if it's tight then lever the pads off the disc and try again if it moves then very likely the pads are not retreating, if still the same then the hanbrake has been adjusted too tightly look for 6/7 clicks on the lever, lots of "techies" overdo this and cause the shoes to bind. At your low milage I would suggest the if it the pads "sticking" then remove them clean the shims and sliders and lube them file the contacting ends of the pads (they stick on the carriers) and you should be right, No special tools required, the pots are push backs on the Tourer, I think? a 12mm spanner will remove the slider pins, with a 17mm spanner to stop the rubber sleeves from riding round. One thing I found on mine is that the inner pad has a stupid three pronged spring arrangement that pushes into the pot and makes the job awkward, with my new pads I dispensed with these, mole grips will remove them. Do not tell Honda about this. LOL


Just read your last post, if the pads are down that too can be the cause as the calipers do not like extending too far, get some new pads, and charge your dealer for them, or at least request a contribution towards them, he should comply within his 6 month warranty?
 
Thanks John,

yes I was going to do all that myself but as I've just bought the car I want the dealer to fix it, if I have a go and find I need a caliper I don't want them saying "you've messed about with this, we're not fixing it" judging by the look of the pads and slides/clips etc. the car must've spent much of its life so far parked up,
lets see what next week at the dealer brings :lol:
 
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