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All the issues to fix on my beloved ES-GT

SOLIDSNAKE

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LONDON
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HONDA ACCORD ES-GT
Hello everyone,

I have a whole list of issues with my Diesel ES-GT.

ISSUES:
DPF completely blocked, I can't force regen with HDS
Raw fish left on my back seat by my neighbour over night has left my car permanantly smelling of fish! :wacko:
I had a runaway engine, whe scarest moment of my life and still issues since.
Failed ABS sensor(s) as stated by HDS.
Weird whirring noises from the engine at idle
O/S/F shock absorber exploded
Ultrasonic sensor malfunction reported by HDS
AC GENERATOR malfunction as reported by HDS
BATTERY FAULT reported by HDS

Solutions:
When I had the runaway engine I replaced the turbo with a second hand one and also the DPF as that was destroyed by loads of engine oil flooding it and probably meliting it, however at the time to test the rest of the diesel system I drilled a whole through the old DPF to decrease pressure so I could run the diagnostics. I will be putting this one in for good.
I am ***uming there is some issue with the injectors spray pattern or solenoid so I bought a pressure tester off ebay and will do a resistance test, HDS seems to say that they are fine so I'm thinking there could be an issue with the spray.
I will be replacing the EGR with one off a type s, as well as the throttle body intercooler and turbo (just for the sake of upgrading while its all in bits upgrades)

Multimeter each ABS sensor with diode test to measure continuity then replace the faulty one(s).

Help!

The suspension, is the CL7/9 coilover the same as the CU I have my dead CL7 that I am planning on resurrecting over the summer (3 years after I posted issues about it in this forum) but I was looking at the top front mounting and it looks the same. Please correct me on this, if I am being overly hopeful.

Tested the alternator its pushing 14.75V which is a little high but still fine for the Diesels right? Also no voltage drop on start.

Does anyone know how I can get this ******* fish smell out! :angry: I am dieing :(

Thats all folks, I start in the morning so will upload some pictures if interested.

Thanks for any tips and help in advance and thanks for reading my problems, they are infact what keep me up at night.
 
Re fish smell, sodium bi-carb made into a thin paste with water. Make it go everywhere the fish juice went. Let it dry out and sit there for a number of days. Vacuum it out and shampoo with carpet shampoo to get rid of bicarb stain.

This is for upholstery and carpet. If you have leather please read op on whether bicarb damages leather!
 
As first do not change your EGR and/or DPF but delete both if you want to have peace in mind for ever ( contact F6HAD for this one ).
For the alternator if it charge around 14.5V then it's OK for sure.
With preasure tester you will not discover almost anything. The CR preasure you can read trough HDS .
Check for the corection per cycle/mg of the injectors.
For the AC you have a DIY somewhere on here to diagnose what is faulty.
The battery can be fautly on the start up because high AMP needed for cranking the engine
 
Is the only remaining engine problem the 'Weird whirring noises from the engine at idle'? I wouldn't think that this would be an injector or EGR problem, but more likely a deeper engine issue related to the runaway condition, possibly the engine chains. It amazes me that an engine could survive this incident at all, let alone without some internal damage! Are you sure it's worth spending time and money trying to fix an annoying noise that could actually cost a fortune to fix? Maybe best to leave it until it falls apart and put in a replacement engine (which may never be necessary?)!

Comparison of 7th gen Vs 8th gen part numbers for new replacement suspension components would soon reveal if they are the same (and therefore interchangeable). I'd suggest looking on the Lings Honda Parts website, but I'm not sure if they have schematics for the 8th gen? Worth a look though, as you can get the Honda part numbers. But pretty much any on-line supplier of suspension parts would show if the aftermarket part numbers are interchangeable.
 
I've never honestly seen quite a list.

Why would you drill a hole in your DPF? Do realise it's a ceramic cartridge and by drilling holes you are compromising its integrity meaning it will become brittle and create loose debris inside your exhaust.. some of which could end up damaging your turbo especially if you also accidentally damaged the cat.

Anyways if you really want to fix this car, then I would suggest think about a permanent DPF and egr off solution which will then allow you to eliminate those as a probable cause and move on to other things to solve.

Drop me a line if you want a price for that service.

Regarding the ultrasonic error, that's quite common for the HDS to register, it's just a log rather than an error. Clear it and see if it returns.
 
Hey Guys, thanks so much for the help, I really appreciate all the info.

To update you:

Jon_G said:
Is the only remaining engine problem the 'Weird whirring noises from the engine at idle'? I wouldn't think that this would be an injector or EGR problem, but more likely a deeper engine issue related to the runaway condition, possibly the engine chains. It amazes me that an engine could survive this incident at all, let alone without some internal damage! Are you sure it's worth spending time and money trying to fix an annoying noise that could actually cost a fortune to fix? Maybe best to leave it until it falls apart and put in a replacement engine (which may never be necessary?)!

Comparison of 7th gen Vs 8th gen part numbers for new replacement suspension components would soon reveal if they are the same (and therefore interchangeable). I'd suggest looking on the Lings Honda Parts website, but I'm not sure if they have schematics for the 8th gen? Worth a look though, as you can get the Honda part numbers. But pretty much any on-line supplier of suspension parts would show if the aftermarket part numbers are interchangeable.
When I had the runaway engine I was on Wood Lane close to Shepards Bush West London a very busy road! I literally pulled the key out and the whole street was covered in smoke you couldent see infront of you or behind you, I halted traffic and this went on for like 3 minutes, I honestly thought new engine. After it calmed down, and after about 20 minutes I turn the key and Mr Hero Honda turns on and gets me back home in limp mode! What a hero!

The whirring noise; I found it to be the a small hairline crack in the EGR valve cooler pipe where it is ribbed, Chiswick Honda quoted me a couple of hundred squids, so I just welded the pipe. (I wish I photographed that part)
No more whirring!

I have an EPC that I guess I could run my 04' and 08' accord through and compare parts. I'll see what comes of this. I have spoken to a few places regarding coilovers and nobody really knows.


Richard B said:
Re fish smell, sodium bi-carb made into a thin paste with water. Make it go everywhere the fish juice went. Let it dry out and sit there for a number of days. Vacuum it out and shampoo with carpet shampoo to get rid of bicarb stain.

This is for upholstery and carpet. If you have leather please read op on whether bicarb damages leather!
have tried all of this and it still stinks. I have ruined the material on the seats it looks like there is sweat patches all over them.


Jan Accord said:
As first do not change your EGR and/or DPF but delete both if you want to have peace in mind for ever ( contact F6HAD for this one ).
For the alternator if it charge around 14.5V then it's OK for sure.
With preasure tester you will not discover almost anything. The CR preasure you can read trough HDS .
Check for the corection per cycle/mg of the injectors.
For the AC you have a DIY somewhere on here to diagnose what is faulty.
The battery can be fautly on the start up because high AMP needed for cranking the engine
Alternator was really interesting for all you electronic loving guys, so the alternator was faulty but you couldent really tell, what had happened was 2 diodes dead on the stator this caused the voltage to change very quickly from 14.7 to 12.2 rapidly, I pulled this up on a portable oscilloscope which showed this on crank, so clearly the EPM saw this, anyway I replaced the two diodes with bog standard ones and all good.

I recoded the injectors and the variation has changed. So now CYLINDER 1 is spot on 2 is ovefueling just abit and the other two are underfueling just abit, I am not sure how much the difference is. I wish I screen shot that but can do it tomorrow.


F6HAD said:
I've never honestly seen quite a list.

Why would you drill a hole in your DPF? Do realise it's a ceramic cartridge and by drilling holes you are compromising its integrity meaning it will become brittle and create loose debris inside your exhaust.. some of which could end up damaging your turbo especially if you also accidentally damaged the cat.

Anyways if you really want to fix this car, then I would suggest think about a permanent DPF and egr off solution which will then allow you to eliminate those as a probable cause and move on to other things to solve.

Drop me a line if you want a price for that service.

Regarding the ultrasonic error, that's quite common for the HDS to register, it's just a log rather than an error. Clear it and see if it returns.
To tell you the truth, my car was due an MOT 3 days after my runaway engine, I had already done a full service with new drilled and groved brakes and I coulden't run HDS to test the rest of the system with the permanant DPF code. I ***umed that the runaway engine would have flooded the DPF with oil and ruined it anyway so drilled a whole through in desperation. Naturally if I haden't already spent so much on it I would have bought the DPF sooner and fitted along with a turbo.

Tried clearing DTCs but Ultrasonic sensor is still an issue.

I am going to do a mechanical test on all injectors to test there spray pattern next week.

My solution today to fixing my DPF was this:

I took it all out, took it to my back garden. and karcher jet washed it, for almost a minute nothing came out the other end of the dpf (exhaust side) but then loads of black carbon sludge came out. The entire process took just under 8 minutes I did it from both sides, through the sensor holes until no carbon was coming out and just clear water.

I then put it all back in the car, reset DTCS, tried regen which I new would obviously fail, I then resetted calculated PM value did a sensor relearn and was up and running in no time.


http://bosecom.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/Todays-work.png


Sorry about the way these images came out i'm no photographer! The last image is my dead 04' which I will resurrect over the summer! I loved that car because it was the EX!

I have thought about EGR off and DPF off, its just the MOT/law stuff. I don't really want to get caught without them, unless there is a viable workaround. I have a KESS V2 remapper with a whole bunch of Honda maps because I was remapping in Silverstone for a few guys a couple of years back.

Quick question, another fault I forgot to mention, I have a failed YAWRATE sensor as reported by HDS, where is it located under a seat? I have one to fit as this code has been on there for a while.

Still need to do the shocks but will look at those tomorrow!

Did a 10mile wizz down the motorway and all feels great, I miss the power. Still doesen't beat my VTI-S B18C4 though!

I miss doing car work in the sun, its been years.

Anyways, cheers for reading through my nonsense and I hope some of it was interesting.
 
The injector balance doesn't sound like an issue. The displayed figures are merely the trims applied by the ECU to achieve an equal piston force at idle. As long as they're within ±5mg then this is acceptable... One is usually spot-on, while two will be offset in one direction, while one will be offset in the other. Completely normal!
 
Jon_G said:
The injector balance doesn't sound like an issue. The displayed figures are merely the trims applied by the ECU to achieve an equal piston force at idle. As long as they're within ±5mg then this is acceptable... One is usually spot-on, while two will be offset in one direction, while one will be offset in the other. Completely normal!
Yea I know what you mean, just been talking to a whole bunch of people at Chiswick Honda about it and they seem to think it isn't normal. I think Chiswick Honda just want to make some cash off me as they keep saying it needs to be booked in for a diagnostic even though I do that anyway!! I reckon its the spray pattern or leaky injectors or somthing like that, all other tests the car can do pass no issue. I think my best bet is to test the injectors with the mechanical pump I bought off eBay.
 
A Bosch service centre would be a better option than a Honda dealer for investigating problems with the fuel injection system. Honda will simply swap expensive ***embles until it seems to be working... Honda dealers often send diesel cars to Bosch service centres!
 
Jon_G said:
The injector balance doesn't sound like an issue. The displayed figures are merely the trims applied by the ECU to achieve an equal piston force at idle. As long as they're within ±5mg then this is acceptable... One is usually spot-on, while two will be offset in one direction, while one will be offset in the other. Completely normal!
When i contacted Bosch service around here they told me that on this engine should not be over 2mg per cycle of corection.
This is an information they provided
 
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