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Battery replacement - 2006, facelift, Accord, 2.4 petrol, 4-door

thedooor

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Hello
Looks like the battery is having difficulty holding a charge, so am looking to replace it.

current Honda battery says :-
12V - 48Ah
420A CCA (EN)

Can I just get any 12v battery with the same rating and swap it out (same size obviously).
Anything to watch out for? or tips & tricks

Thanks
 
Obviously, nnew battery needs to be 12V.

May seem like a daft question, but does it matter if these figures are different on the new battery?
48Ah
420A CCA (EN)
 
A Yuasa YBX5053 will fit. When removing disconnect negative terminal first, when installing connect positive terminal first.
 
recharge and test you should see output of around 14v when started. may just be a weak battery
 
recharge and test you should see output of around 14v when started. may just be a weak battery
Yes, have tried that, tna. It's got to the point where if I leave it for 5 days then it's 50/50 whether it will start or not. So doesn't require changing immediately.

Is it possible to top up the battery, even thou they are "maintenance free"? (its a genuine Honda battery)
 
Might be the hands free module draining battery happened to mine same year and make of car
Good point.
Have already been through that, and the bluetooth unit has been disconnected for over 12 months.
I must admit the voice commands are great for impressing the passengers, and i do miss that feature.
 
Invest in a charger that has a recon/regeneration mode, it can add years to your battery if it is recoverable.

There are plenty of chinese copy's about but this is the one I have and recommend.

 
Good shout, though the CTEK charger appears to have suffered a Chinese remanufacture in the past couple of years and is no longer the same as the original


I stil use an Optimate that I bought some twenty years ago. The design has evolved over the years but I would stick with the Mk 1 as it has one switch only which is mechanical, so no dodgy software settings that the user , or the device might mess up. This looks like the direct equivalent and may be the same.

 
The radio etc was ok when I did mine. Just needed to reset the drivers power window by winding it all the way down and back up keeping the finger on the switch.
 
Good shout, though the CTEK charger appears to have suffered a Chinese remanufacture in the past couple of years and is no longer the same as the original


I stil use an Optimate that I bought some twenty years ago. The design has evolved over the years but I would stick with the Mk 1 as it has one switch only which is mechanical, so no dodgy software settings that the user , or the device might mess up. This looks like the direct equivalent and may be the same.


I'm sure the charger you recommend is fine but from what I can tell it doesn't have a regeneration mode which desulphates (See also Optimate 3 or 4). That's why I recommended the CTEK to the OP so he might be able to to revive his current battery he seems to be having problems with. I've had mine for a number of years and even if it can't be revived it's a good investment as it has prolonged and extended the life of many of my batteries and despite being made in China.
 
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It probably doesn't, but if the battery has already sulphated I wouldn't want it to be the main starting device in a diesel no matter how good the claim of rejuvenating.

Most bikes I owned have either had a kickstart in addition to the starter, the engine runs without a battery in the circuit, or I've learned how to bump start them (including those with the one way clutch)
 
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I also keep one of these in the boot of the Accord. It has saved me so many times. When I leave the car on ignition when I hoovering the interior and also when my alternator died and I was still around 100 miles away from home. It fired the car back up with no sweat. Stays charged forever. lol. Was worth the investment for that peace of mind.

 
I also keep one of these in the boot of the Accord. It has saved me so many times. When I leave the car on ignition when I hoovering the interior and also when my alternator died and I was still around 100 miles away from home. It fired the car back up with no sweat. Stays charged forever. lol. Was worth the investment for that peace of mind.


Agreed I used to carry something similar too, try checking out those lithium polymer starter packs if and when the time comes.

I was sceptical but when my lead acid starter pack was having trouble charging I decided to give one a go. At about the size and weight of a large purse they really are the bollox, the first time I used it in anger I stopped for a stranded motorist at a supermarket carpark and it turned over his large 4x 4 diesel with ease, neither of us could believe it.

 
Invest in a charger that has a recon/regeneration mode, it can add years to your battery if it is recoverable.

There are plenty of chinese copy's about but this is the one I have and recommend.


Yes i always use this where other chargers have failed does a trickle charge so can take few days for some batteries but 9 out of 10 have worked for me.
 
Good shout, though the CTEK charger appears to have suffered a Chinese remanufacture in the past couple of years and is no longer the same as the original


I stil use an Optimate that I bought some twenty years ago. The design has evolved over the years but I would stick with the Mk 1 as it has one switch only which is mechanical, so no dodgy software settings that the user , or the device might mess up. This looks like the direct equivalent and may be the same.


I have the next generation of this without switch has autosense for 6v and 12v
 
Yes, have tried that, tna. It's got to the point where if I leave it for 5 days then it's 50/50 whether it will start or not. So doesn't require changing immediately.

Is it possible to top up the battery, even thou they are "maintenance free"? (its a genuine Honda battery)

Some can be if you look around there may be caps, although my recommdation is to put on a battery conditioner such as ctek or optimate before replacing i have revived many batteries this way.
 
I nearly bought that NOCO 1000A jump starter, it was that vs the SIP1600.

A friend of mine used to work as a recovery truck operator and he recommended I go for the SIP1600.
He says all his buddies use it. It just works and is reliable and no matter what day it is you can always rely on it.

He says those operators rarely use the lithium battery jump starters.
The lead acid batteries just carries much current and far more heavy duty.

Love the idea of the compact size, but would prefer tried and tested methods that work I guess.
Maybe one day i will upgrade.
 
Fair enough accord_n22 and if you use one on a very regular basis like a recovery truck operator I'd probably opt for a HD lead acid option too. Where it does outperform lead acid though is through cold weather, leave it overnight in the car on a cold night in the car and performance hardly degrades, my lead acid jumper became unuseable after a frost, so much so that it had to be warmed up to be charged just so I could start an engine with a battery that was also buggered because of the cold. :)
 
Just an update:-
Replaced it with a Yuassa battery. £60.
Watch out for the nut on the VE+ terminal, you will need a socket with an extension to access it.
I attached an old battery so that I didn't loose any of the settings.

Thanks for your help.
 
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