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Belt tensioner bolt rounded ... HELP!

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wahabishtiaq

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Location
Hemel Hempstead, Herts
Car
Honda Accord 2006
Was doing belt change from old to new shorter version and while putting in new belt everything went well was trying to get belt on steering pump it got only 6 rib and one on the edge of pump.... And guess what happened tensioner bolt rounded and tensioner back on full tension.

Tried to see if I can drive to garage and started car. It started ripping belt. Now I am stuck worried if I start car and drive it, it will rip the belt and then stand still.

Any help.... ?
 
I think not having extension bar really damaged the bolt. I don't have 13mm extension that long. Want to take it to mechanic or ask him to visit car in my garage as driving it will damage the belt or snap it.

Now have to bear the cost of getting this corrected.
:(
 
When my mechanic guy helped me do mine - he didn't use a tensioner tool. He did it the old fashion way by using a crow bar to gently move the tenioner away. Resting the crow bar on the pulley bolt that was removed. It actually worked quite well.
 
Han don't ask Alex... it was a night mare. :( In last 2 belt changes all mechanics used bolt to lose the tensioner which made it a bit rounded. Yesterday it completely got stripped when i was putting new shorter belt on. Disaster!
Tried taking the tensioner off today and got it unbolted by a nearby mechanic, he used the impact gun to remove it which was a simple straight forward. Then search for new pull and bolt was not very successful.

Then after all this panic i had no choice but to buy new tensioner which was hefty. :wacko:. With new tensioner it was straight on job. Now need to find a new bolt and i can re sale the old tensioner to get back some cash. Had given a good engine and under hood clean with Autoglym engine & machine cleaner. Looks spot on.

Feeling nervous now for future DIy job as this one clearly shatter my confidence .... :blush:
 
wahabishtiaq said:
Feeling nervous now for future DIy job as this one clearly shatter my confidence .... :blush:
Click to expand...

You've just been unlucky...did you use a 6 sided socket on the bolt?
 
Cliffordski said:
I don't know but the tensioner looks loose to me where it bolts to the engine.
Click to expand...
Tensioner is attached to engine by 2 or 3 bolts +1 central long bolt (allen key). So I don't think all of them could be loose...
Just to ask:
Do somebody knows if the tensioner pulley bolt is right (normal) or left thread?
 
It needs to remove the belt and have a look the tensioner (feel by hand) If it is lose.
If needs to replace the tensioner it is easier first to remove PS pump for easy access:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RvrGnE1-Ayo
 
Thanks guys,

I check my tensioner back again today after couple of hundred miles driven. Tensioner seems more settled and calm. The notch etched on engine bay is in the centre of the tensioner pit.

Which i think means belt is in right tension and things are working fine.

Cheers
 
For playing tensioner pulley could be responsible playing of crankshaft pulley as well.
 
Yes you do have to take off the PS pump on a diesel having just done it. Just waiting for a new tensioner fingers crossed no more drama :)

Car back in working order, very easy to get the belt on with the new tensioner. Slipped the belt over the tensioner pully easiest way I found.

Tensioner is held on with 2 x 12 mm bolts and 1 x 6mm Allen bolt.
 
Sorry for late reply lads, i had been slightly out of touch from forum so apologies.

If you need to replace the nut on your old part it is either 13 or 12 in diagram.

Hope it helps you to resell it on eBay. How much did you pay for new tensioner?
 
I stripped mine, still never got it off. I had to reset my cam gear. I know replacing it isn't too hard have access to it while replacing the belt in normal circumstance, remove the crank pulley, timing belt cover, loosen driver side motor mount, slide belt off reverse for install.
 
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