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Brake Bleeding - Mityvac

-Rich-

-Rich-

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Location
Rickmansworth
Car
2.4 Tourer Auto
My new calipers and hoses are coming today, which I need to fit asap to cure my binding rear brake (changing both sides though).

I'll probably be on my own when changing them so looking at alternative ways to bleed, has anyone used one of these, how did you find it?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191417934744?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

If I stick to the normal 2 man method what is the best size aquarium tubing to get for the bleed nipples, I'm thinking 5 or 6mm?
 
I'm not sure if the mityvac works with Honda reservoirs. I've tried one man kits and never get good results. The best method I find is using a one man kit, but two man method, place some red rubber grease over the valve threads ensures air doesn't get drawn in.

takes very little effort to get a rock solid pedal.
 
Cliffordski said:
These work fine without a helper.

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/brake-clutch-fluid/europat-vizibleed-bleed-aid
Click to expand...
I like the looks of that thing from Halfords. I read all the reviews, seems that some people found it "blew" away from the bleed nipple under pressure, but in one of the reviews a chap said he used a cable tie round it to stop that happening. For the price, and knowing the potential problems with it but the "fixes", it looks very convenient without a helper around.
 
I use a vizibleed, provided you hook the plastic collar over the rubber tube and nipple then I've not found it to pop off under pressure. I've bled the brakes on my BB4 with it and my 3rd gen Accord with no trouble. You barely need to turn the bleed nipples, just literally crack them enough that they just start flowing fluid and you should find you don't get air being drawn in whilst using the kit. Mine came with a bottle too which captured all the old brake fluid. Much better than getting you girlfriend/wife to pump the brakes, or using the coke bottle trick.
 
on the same Halfords site for a quid extra you can get the same tube but a container too. It's ok for the money .
 
Well I bought a visibleed and used it yesterday. First I got the missus to pump the brake and just used some clear tubing but I wasn't happy with the feel and she went out. So I used the visibleed and the plastic tab that holds the tube on snapped the first time but yes you could use a cable tie as well.

Opening the bleed nipple any more than just cracking it off as Josh said and fluid seeps from the nipple. The problem I found was the tube is quite short and the weight of it turned the nipple round even more so having someone pump the pedal while I hold it might make it work better?

I'm not happy with the pedal feel though, the car brakes as normal but once you come to a stop the pedal sinks abit further than it used to. If I pump the pedal up with the engine off so there is no vaccum left the pedal is rock solid and I can barely move it, probably no more than 1/4 of the way. I know the pedal should be firm with the engine off but how much travel should it have?
 
I always found the Accord to have a softer pedal. But you should try the two man method again with the one way bleeder and put some grease (red rubber grease if you have it )around the threads before cracking it off.
 
Salim said:
I always found the Accord to have a softer pedal. But you should try the two man method again with the one way bleeder and put some grease (red rubber grease if you have it )around the threads before cracking it off.
Click to expand...
That's exactly what I'm planning on doing and putting red grease around the nipples, although I'm wondering if I should do all 4 corners now rather than just the rears? I think as the calipers are new and there is no gunk around the nipple threads to stop them moving, this makes it open further than I'd like it to.

Would I do the nipple up when the second person holds down the pedal if I use the visibleed?

Like you I've found the brake pedal to be soft ever since I got the car, even after a fluid change and new front discs/pads it was still the same. I had a trusted garage do the first fluid change so it was done properly. When I stop the car and hold the pedal it's fine but if I apply pressure it slowly drops, although not to the floor.
 
Pads/disks also affect pedal feel, my car always had a soft pedal but firm under hard braking. it would sink some when stationary brakes applied. I've driven loads of accords and all feel the same to me. i also get alot of Accord owners complaining about pedal feel but the Accord has no problems braking hard when needed.

The accord is not a sport car, so the brake feel is meant to be more progressive.

As for bleeding just do normal two man method , the one way valve is just extra reassurance.

I would work all way round car again, as you have fresh fluid already you do not need to go mad. Just 5 times on each caliper is normally enough.

my two man method,

Top off reservoir (ensure it doesn't go dry)
get helper to hold brake pedal down, enough so when the bleeder is cracked open it sinks with constant pressure but not forced hard.
crack bleeder- then nip it up- all in about 1 sec
release the pedal
Pedal back down
crack bleeder, then nip it up - all in about 1 sec
release pedal
...repeat..

* best to shout to helper DOWN, once pedal down helper should confirm by shouting DOWN
Shout UP, Helper releases pedal and confirm UP

Leave the bleed tube submerged in brake fluid.

if you lightly grease the thread of the bleed valve, and follow the above you will guarantee the brakes have been bled properly.

With pressure on the pedal you only crack the bleeder momentarily and then nip it up before the pedal botttoms out. this ensure there's constant fluid pressure so less chance of air going back in and also stop the pedal from bottoming out and flipping the seals in the master cylinder.

Hopefully some of that made sense ha ha :lol:
 
Salim said:
Pads/disks also affect pedal feel, my car always had a soft pedal but firm under hard braking. it would sink some when stationary brakes applied. I've driven loads of accords and all feel the same to me. i also get alot of Accord owners complaining about pedal feel but the Accord has no problems braking hard when needed.

The accord is not a sport car, so the brake feel is meant to be more progressive.
Click to expand...
Yep that describes how my pedal feels.

I used the Visibleed again using the 2 man method, I did the pedal and got someone else to check what was coming out.

One of the nipples on the new caliper seems to allow more fluid to seep out than the other, even red grease wouldn't help. Only did the rears again and although there weren't any bubbles in the fluid a sudden surge did come out of both so there might have been a little air stuck in the calipers.

The pedal did firm up slightly more after that and the last couple of days driving seems to have firmed it up even more, unless I'm dreaming it!

The only downside to these one man kits is if doing it by yourself you use so much fluid, which seems wasteful, good job it doesn't cost much.
 
Just read your post Rich, i to am about to do the rear caliper binding problem!

I also have felt the pedal to feel a little soft , when sevo is working, but can lock the brakes up if i press hard .

But am doing the Type R front caliper mod, rebuilding all the brakes with new pistons , and using new braided hoses and expensive brake fluid .

So after all that , unless the master cylnder has gone (which i doubt) basically like new brakes all round.

But will post my comments and let you know when compleated :)

Also regarding bleeding, the only reason you need a one-way valve is because if you dont nip the bleed screw back up everytime you release the footbrake, it can suck air back in .

As Salim tried to explain , its more of a knack then anything, but you need two people working in unison, which is not always easy :blink:

You can bleed them with nothing attached really, but it shoots everywhere! so not recomended as excellent paint stripper!

I have also rebuilt calipers, in the past and had to re-bleed them (i guess) due to air in upper caliper areas which gets sort of trapped.
 
Only just seen this I have been away. I've done around 800 miles on the new calipers now and the car is braking fine, the soft pedal is just a trait of the system. You are definitely right about it being 2 people working in unison, it was much easier having the father in law helping than the missus! lol
 
Can anyone help. Just rebuilt my calipers and renewed discs/pads on rear. Had to leave car overnight with a caliper off and brake line nipped. It wasnt tight enough and in morning the brake fluid had leaked out and reservoir was dry....

Gonna bleed all 4 brakes in morning nd get all air out. Anyone know if i need to do an extra step due to reservoir having ran dry???
 
no it'll just take a little longer, start nearest to abs pump and work around. It's easier if you can put the car on axle stands and have all four wheels off. That way you can do a couple passes if you like.
 
Evening all!

So i decided to give this changing of discs and pads a go and it has taken me longer than expected due to me brake shoes being seized to the inside of one of my discs and not having all he necessary tools for the job.

Anyway I managed to get the bugger off and rebuild me handbrake shoe ***embly however I have a soggy pedal when the car is running.

When it is not running the pedal is hard as rock but when i turn the motor on the pedal slowly sinks to the the floor.

Have i got air stuck in me master cylinder or is it just a case of bleeding more fluid through the system?

What order should you bleed the callipers in as there seems to be lots of conflicting info regarding the order?
 
Cars with ABS pumps don't really matter, so start from wheel nearest abs pump and work out. If your brakes are biting ok then you should fine. The accord pedal is not rock hard anyway but should firm up under moderate braking.
 
I've worked around the car from drivers side anti clockwise and the pedal is firm until i start the motor and then it goes all soft and can press the pedal to the floor with little effort.
 
With the engine on if you pump the pedal does it firm up? I think you still have air in the system, leak or otherwise.

try bleeding the brakes using the two man method. Bleeding brakes if done properly can be done in no time at all.
 
Flushed another 300 ml of fluids through all four corners the pedal still doing the same however this must be a trait of the car I wasn't aware of as after taking the car for a test drive it seems to brake fine.

Handbrake just needs adjusting now!
 
Thanks for your input salim. I bled the heck out of the brakes starting from front left, front right, rear R, rear L (as per a blueprint I found online). Went round a few times and brakes are feeling nice and solid. Had my dad working the brakes (fast hard press and slow ones and he sure did the trick... The next day I heard a bit of squeaking at tge brake pedal which I sorted with some TF2 (think GT84 with more lubrication in it:used for my bike chains)...

Thanks again all
 
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