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Brake pedal goes to floor after disc/pad swap

hornyhonda

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Location
Oxford UK
Car
Accord CDTi
I swapped out the discs and pads on the accord earlier and everything went well till id finished and the pedal goes to the floor. I left the brake fluid cap off for the duration of the job and had to push the piston in the caliper back a fair way using a G clamp. Im guessing its a slave or master cylinder gone, is there a way I can diagnose this? Ive never had to swap a slave or master cylinder out before so hoping its not too much bother. Should I go new or used on this part?

Tomorrow i'll bleed the brakes to be sure as I wont be able to locate any parts due to it being a sunday then a bank hol monday (unless I travel to get a used one off ebay)

Any help with this nightmare would be appreciated

Thanks
 
I forgot to mention all replacement parts were from euro car parts and not honda. Pagid pads and eicher discs IIRC.
 
Start the car and pump the pedal, idiot might stiffen up for you, then check the levels in the reservoir if it does stiffen up.
 
Mr Honda said:
Start the car and pump the pedal, idiot might stiffen up for you, then check the levels in the reservoir if it does stiffen up.
Ha, somehow me trying to say it might stiffen up for you, turns into "idiot might stiffen up for you", ha apologies
 
Thanks but I did try this. I had to top up about 20ml max. Its worth mentioning I did split the caliper in two when putting in the new pads. It had two sliders that popped out easily I then popped the pads in and reassembled. Im wondering if this may of introduced air into the system? I shall bleed the brakes tomorrow and go from there.
 
Good day to you all :)

Ive just finished bleeding the brakes on every corner and although noticably better it has not solved the problem. Brake pedal pressure seems to be fine until I start the engine then the pedal sinks almost to the floor. Does anyone know how to troubleshoot a faulty slave or master cylinder?

I could rebleed the fronts but I dont think that will solve the problem.

Any advice is greatly appreciated
 
I had the same happen to me after a,garage changed offside rear caliper on my tourer as the caliper was sticking,
Took it back to them several times for bleeding as pedal was nearly touching the floor (when engine running) brakes were quite solid on pedal when engine not running.
They advised me to leave as was and ***ured me things would be ok after a few hundred miles (not sure how many it took tho but it did right itself gradually eventually) hope this helps
 
yeah I think that you still have air in the system, either try as said above, or just keep bleeding, I think I even saw someone take the plastic tubing directly back into the reservoir, I even saw a kit somewhere to help facilitating bleeding without an ***istant
 
Vacuum pump to bleed start from wheel nearest to master cylinder and work to furthest bleed all 4 if needed you can reverse bleed from master cylinder but shouldn't be necessary with the pump you will be a bales to suck out all the air quickly make sure you keep master cylinder topped up as drain is when system is pressurized.
I doubt the master or brake booster there is a test for brake booster if you require pm me

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Sorry for the late reply. Thanks saj and everyone. I bled it myself 3 times and it was still spongey. In the end I took it to my local garage and they vacuum bled it for £42. It was better but not by much. A few days of driving and it seemed to stiffen up, its just odd that it took a few days to figure itself out.
 
I think it's just part of the way some ABS systems work, letting the fluid out of them in the first place is to be avoided as much as possible in the first place ;)
 
Check the pin which is on front callipers, I did my pads and did put the pin slightly wrong (hard to describe ). If the spring pin is not loaded properly it give feel as full panel needs to be pressed to apply.

Good luck!
 
Glad its sorted thanks for update, seems like there may have still been air in system did they bleed all 4 calipers ?

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