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brake sticking on tourer

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lrj

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Warks
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i-CTDi tourer
Hi, any help much appreciated on this

I have a 55 plate iCTDi EX tourer, 97000 miles. The drivers side rear brake disc gets mad hot after a mile or two. Its happened before, a few weeks ago, and the garage that fixed it reckoned it was crud inside the brake pipe blocking the pipe & stopping it releasing. They inspected the pads & disc (they were OK), and ended up replacing a small section of brake pipe. I suspect this time around they will be at a bit of a loss. Anyone here got any ideas?

I saw on another thread a recommendation to (a) check the handbrake shoes aren't binding and (B) clean or replace the caliper.

Thanks
 
lrj said:
Hi, any help much appreciated on this

I have a 55 plate iCTDi EX tourer, 97000 miles. The drivers side rear brake disc gets mad hot after a mile or two. Its happened before, a few weeks ago, and the garage that fixed it reckoned it was crud inside the brake pipe blocking the pipe & stopping it releasing. They inspected the pads & disc (they were OK), and ended up replacing a small section of brake pipe. I suspect this time around they will be at a bit of a loss. Anyone here got any ideas?

I saw on another thread a recommendation to (a) check the handbrake shoes aren't binding and (B) clean or replace the caliper.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Hello there.
this is a VERY common problem. How to fix it has also been well documented on here too if you search ;).

Basically you need to remove the caliper and give it a dam good wire brushing / clean. also inspect the condition of the pots as they might need doing but with only 97K on the clock that would be very eary.
 
i had similar on mine, disc and wheel getting very hot, didn't notice it until i was getting the bike off the roof one day and could feel the heat on my leg!

on the journey back i started hearing the tell tale squeak of brake pads nearing the limit. took them out and compared them to the pads on the other side, they were on about 2mm of pad, the others looked about 1/4 spent.

obviously i changed the pads, but i made sure when i pushed the pistons back i pumped them back out (brake pedal) and then pushed them back a few times to free them up.

no problems since, but keeping an eye on them, i would ***ume the wheel heating up too much could be a major problem for the bearings etc.


mat.
 
i did pop the boot off and check the pistons, but they seemed clean so i just worked them in and out for a bit to free them up.


mat.
 
This has also been know to be the brake hose falling apart from the inside and blocking the fluid channels within the caliper.

First port of call is give it all a good clean and make sure the sliders are cleaned and greased properly.
 
Brilliant, thanks for the help everyone. In a strange way, I'm glad it's a common problem, so there is a well-known solution!

The short flexi-hose has been replaced recently, so it's clean or replace the caliper next.

Thanks again.
 
lrj said:
Brilliant, thanks for the help everyone. In a strange way, I'm glad it's a common problem, so there is a well-known solution!

The short flexi-hose has been replaced recently, so it's clean or replace the caliper next.

Thanks again.
Click to expand...


definitely try cleaning first, have you seen the price of a new caliper!!

mat.
 
Got a reconditioned caliper for mine for around 50quid.
 
Been through this too ended up having to replace caliper but wasn't that expensive I used a recon exchange service if you've replaced flexable hose I don't think cleaning the exterior of the caliper will help
 
T internet can't remember exactly where got mine from search refurbished calipers etc I bought the refurbished one then sent mine to them I think u get about a month or so to send the knackerd one back was very straight forward
 
Well I took it to a different garage than my normal one (still not a honda dealer), and I nearly fell off my chair when they told me the price of a new caliper! About £130 for a unipart one. £230 in total for the job of replacing the caliper & pads inc vat. I needed it done urgently this time, but I'll be looking at doing it myself with the recon caliper next time....
 
Just ring round your local motor factors for recon calipers that's all I did.
 
davecmr said:
Just ring round your local motor factors for recon calipers that's all I did.
Click to expand...
jumping on this thread - I own a 2006 cdti tourer and occasionally, after about 20-30 miles I get a high pitched drone fron the back,,,,If I dab the brake its goes off as soon as I come off the brake it starts agian until I slow down for a junction etc. Its not speed related I ***umed it was a thermal build up around the wheel, brakes etc and wondered if anyone else had a noisy (bit like a siren) back-end. It doesnt happen all the time say every 2 out of 5 long trips, on my 12 mile journey to work it never happens, Im convinced its after a long enough run that heat is causing some clearance somewhere to close up.

Any ideas chaps?

Thanks
 
lrj said:
Hi, any help much appreciated on this

I have a 55 plate iCTDi EX tourer, 97000 miles. The drivers side rear brake disc gets mad hot after a mile or two. Its happened before, a few weeks ago, and the garage that fixed it reckoned it was crud inside the brake pipe blocking the pipe & stopping it releasing. They inspected the pads & disc (they were OK), and ended up replacing a small section of brake pipe. I suspect this time around they will be at a bit of a loss. Anyone here got any ideas?

I saw on another thread a recommendation to (a) check the handbrake shoes aren't binding and (B) clean or replace the caliper.

Thanks
Click to expand...


Might consider having both rear calipers done...been through this and I had to do discs and pads :((( May save much heartache in the longrun.
 
mcexocet said:
Might consider having both rear calipers done...been through this and I had to do discs and pads :((( May save much heartache in the longrun.
Click to expand...

Thanks Simon, I'll keep a close eye on the other rear brakes.....
 
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