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Carbon sealed Diesel injector, how do I remove it?

There are mobile experts who you can get round to do this for you. Despite what some people might say, I'd be a bit wary of soaking it in strange fluids... whatever you use will drain into the cylinder when you pull out the injector. I just took all 4 of mine out and they came out easily with just a squirt or ten of WD40 (but there was practically no carbon).

Have you tried to remove it yet?
 
I have managed to retrieve injector 1 and 3 of the 4 injectors of which I have labelled up. I cannot get injector 2 or 4 out I am speaking of order from the timing chain. I have bought an injector puller but cant get a spanner or mold grips round the nut to remove the top of the injector, I will try carbon remover spray tomorrow or WD40 but I an lost on this one.

Cheers
 
Try put coke or iodine.
 
I am stuck on one injector I am planning on taking the rocker off and inspecting the rocker arm gaps with a feeler. This injector has no such carbon around it. Does anyone have any more recommendations I will put pictures up of the entire lot of how I removed them. I have tried coke with no joy.

Thanks very much.
 
As ToothlessDrunk/Rob said, a hydraulic puller is a good (reasonably gentle option). Or a slidehammer. Or get someone in to do it for you.

I'd worry about what that coke is doing to the cylinder and avoid using potentially harmful/corrosive liquids like that.

There isn't anything to adjust, so I wouldn't bother taking the cover off.
 
SOLIDSNAKE said:
I am stuck on one injector I am planning on taking the rocker off and inspecting the rocker arm gaps with a feeler. This injector has no such carbon around it. Does anyone have any more recommendations I will put pictures up of the entire lot of how I removed them. I have tried coke with no joy.

Thanks very much.
Click to expand...
Are you tryed iodine.Its'really works.before all injectors must be in place.
 
Hi, I got the injector off in the end with the diesel puller for about 15 minutes of throwing the puller towards the sky with all my might, I cleaned the entire injector bore with isopropanol and blew it through with the air compressor I removed the old injector seals. Sadly I have not completed the job as I am also rebuilding my neighbors Mark 1 Golf 1.3 engine. I will put up pictures of how I removed the injector.

Thanks for the help guys
 
Nice one!

How did you ensure that the ledge on the cylinder head (where the underside of the injector copper seal sits) was absolutely clean... was it simply washing with IPA and blasting with air, or did you find something like a giant cotton bud to actually wipe the surface clean?

I'm going to be putting all my injectors back in soon and it looks pretty grotty down the injector holes!
 
Hey Jon, Sorry I havent got back to you, I have had a nightmare with this, I bought this off eBay:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7-Piece-Diesel-Injector-Seat-Cutter-Cleaner-Tools-Set-Carbon-Remover-Kit-New-/130811415644?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1e74f7cc5c

Gently without any force just rotated it, I lubricated it with IPA then, after all the carbon was free, I got my trusty Henry Hoover attached a straw to it with some brown tape, I sucked out the free carbon debris and then re-cleaned with IPA.

That was that, I bought a teng tools torque wrench and as I was reinserting the clamp bolt at 5Nm TORQUE the bolt snapped. Turns out that the Bolt had some corrosion on there at which it was already on its way out. I have now to take a recessed sheered bolt out of the head for the clamp bolt. I got the torque wrench tested and it is faulty, off by 21.5Nm I new it was fishy but I bought it new! bad luck on my part.

The other thing to be aware of are all those tiny components within the injectors. there is a tiny ball and cylinder that, if incorrectly replaced can damage the valve seal within the injector deeming it faulty. I encountered this on 1 injector.

I will have to get a new torx T-30 bolt for the clamp from somewhere and somehow remove this sheered bolt. the worst part of it is that it is recessed within the bore of the head, its almost impossible to get to.

Any suggestions?

Kindest Regards

Rob

I am stuck now without a car
 
Wow, sorry to hear this Rob. Maybe a stud extractor will do the trick? Or careful drilling and re-tapping? And I can't see why that injector bolt that snapped needs to have a Torx head, if that makes it easier to get a replacement.

Due to unexpected demands on my time (and waiting for an impact wrench to be delivered, so I can get the crank pulley bolt out) I still haven't yet put my injectors back in, so thanks for the tips on vacuuming!
 
Recessed bolts are tricky and as it was snapped off being over torqued .. even more tricky . Left hook drill bit and some stud extractors are the solution .. BUT not stud extractors like you would buy from halfords or screw fix or something .. Stud extractors come in 2 grades ... Utter utter ****e and **** hot .. you need **** hot , utter ****e will cause you more issues . .. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Blue-point-Snap-on-screw-extractor-kit-E1020-25-piece-kit-1-piece-missing-/131241458329?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item1e8e99ba99

DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE CHEAP OUT ON THE EXTRACTOR SET ... like this .. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Snapped-Stud-Bolt-Screw-Extractor-Removing-set-internal-screw-type-Stud-Remover-/160978820238?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item257b15dc8e this will not get the job done , this will leave you in a worse spot than you already are .

Torque wrenches are funny beasts .. We were having our BSi kite mark audit so all the torque wrenches had to be calibrated .. So I gather all our wrenches , I had pretty much every make going from all the guys and myself .. snapon ,teng ,sykes ,Mac etc etc ...and also a halfords one I got for an experiment in durability from a trade card rep .. Took em all to KR tools calibration .. guess which one, after 5 years of abuse ,was still spot on the mark ... the halfords one !!!!! :eek: :eek: .. Them halfords advanced stuff ain't that bad , it's better than one would think it would be .
 
Yea, I agree I have the £74.99 torque but the torque ranges from 40Nm + which I can't use on those TORX bolts.

I am so fed up with this, I ended up having to re-tap the bore and use helicoil's before and there the cause of this. The coils are good for replacing the aluminum ones, with damaged threads. What I have done is re-tapped bore 1,2 and 3 and got some of this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Threaded-Bar-Studding-Threaded-BAR-ROD-ZINC-PLATED-Sizes-from-M4-upto-M20-/200992706347?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item2ecc194f2b

I cut 4 to 60mm each, I threaded in 3 of the 4 now. and am using an 8mm nut with washer instead of the rubbish TORX bolts.

I was speaking to my local Chiswick Honda Dealer, and they said "if only Honda didn't use Bosch parts, we wouldn't have to replace injectors" one of the service techs said, "it seems to be all the non JAP parts failing on these Accord's".

Personally I did not agree, until yesterday night a diesel injector specialist told me that they were designed to fail.

As you can imagine I am furious with this all.

Thanks guys for the advise.
 
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