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Cluch fluid

Tomce

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Hello everyone,is it hard to change cluch fluid?Is it need to go in honda service.Because I am thinking to change in my 2004 ictdi

Regards
Tomas
 
Very easy to do - especially if you have on of the eazibleeder thingies. Otherwise it is a two man affair.

Use DOT4 brake fluid.

There might be a how-to already - if not I will try and do one...
 
Very easy to do - especially if you have on of the eazibleeder thingies. Otherwise it is a two man affair.

Use DOT4 brake fluid.

There might be a how-to already - if not I will try and do one...
Thanks for answer,is it this breeder are where is cilinder(in the front of engine)?
 
Yes mate... between the block and radiator fan.
 
Hi dan, I think it's good idea you could make a DIY of cluch fluid change I'm thinking of change, in my knowledge I just use thing to suck some fluid out from container and put some fresh fluid in.... Well, I know is not that simple..
 
Just been there and done that, so a few tips. Unless Gunson have changed their easibleed kits, they don't come with a cap that fits the master cylinder reservoir. I tried modifying the existing cap (10mm hole in cap, white plastic washer and cutting the bottom off the rubber insert), but it doesn't hold the pressure, even with the tyre down at 10-15psi you get fluid pi**ing out the cap. But this can still be done as a one man job.

Attach a length of clear tube to the slave cylinder - this isn't as easy as it might seem as its up close to the front engine mount - so be careful not to kink the tube otherwise it just blows off. Insert the the tube into a plastic bottle part filled with DOT4 fluid (the small sports style water bottles are ideal) making sure the end of the tube is below the level of the fluid. This stops air being sucked back inot the sytem. You can wedge the bottle between the block and coolant hose.

Open the bleed nipple (8mm spanner if I recall), remove reservoir cap and slowly pump the clutch peddle down and up - you'll get two to three strokes before you need to top the fluid up in the reservoir. Keep checking the tube for discoloured fluid/air bubbles. You'll need at least 500ml fluid, but a litre is a safer bet. If the fluid in the reservoir is black this points to master cylinder seals on their way out (you can drain this out with a syringe first if you want), if it comes out black at the bleed nipple end at first, slave cylinder seals are going. Put the top back on the water bottle before you extract it from the engine bay (I dropped mine, v.messy). You might also need to decant the bottle part way through, if you do remember to close the bleed nipple first to be on the safe side.
 
Hi, the bleed nipple all I can see is the pic of it from other thread, where is thing to unscrew to open for bleeding? A pic will be appreciated :)
 
Oops, my above post should read "Attach a length of clear tube to the slave cylinder bleed nipple..." it won't let me edit it though. Anyway, it's the bleed nipple itself you unscrew (only about a quarter turn) - facing the engine it's about half way down, right of centre, attached to where the gearbox joints the engine, there might be a black rubber cap on the end of it. Sorry I don't have a picture of it - you can folow the clutch line round from the master cylinder as well.
 
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