Menu
What's new
By:
Advanced search...

Cold start

Accords

Accords

Members
Messages
82
Reaction score
4
Location
norfolk
Car
2.4 CM2
Hi, want a bit of help please, I have a 2004 type s 2.4 touring, only done 64k picked it up a few weeks ago and love the thing after driving an old vw caddy around for the last few years. Anyway in the mornings when I first start it up it runs very rough for about 3-5 secs then goes to the hi revs as normal. It had a service befor I picked it up and I have cheaked out the spark plugs and they look good. Also one other thing, after owning an EP3, when driving the accord it doesnt feel as quick as I thought it would be. Your help would be great.
 
I've only had my Accord for a matter of days so I really can't comment too much on your cold start problem. Although my Accord doesn't have that particular issue, I've had some cars before with this 'quirk' and it's never really been seen as a problem. On my old vRS for example, this was very common and would last for more like 20-30 seconds. Obviously without hearing it it's hard to say if you have a real problem or not.

It is only a 2.4 non turbo in a rather heavy car don't forget. There does appear to be a map available for our cars that liven them up a lot in the mid range and drops the vtec to 4.5k rather than 6k and increase the red line to either 7.5k or 7.8k. I haven't had this done myself yet but will be taking the plunge very soon and those that have done it report good things.
 
Cool thanks for that, let me know how you get on with the map. Anyone else who can help with the cold start thing would be great as we had some white stuff last night!!❄❄
 
It shouldn't be rough on starting.
I would start by checking the plugs which you said you have.

Maybe put some injector cleaner in it to see if that makes a difference. I would also check the air filter to see for blockage.

My next job would be to strip down the throttle body and give it a good clean including the idle control valve (iacv).
 
Thanks mate, is the IC valve same as EGR valve? Any good links to see how to clean this?? Also I'm sure it doesn't v-tech at all.
 
Vtec doesn't cut in until 6k rpm on these, so we only get it for 1k.
 
TypeR said:
My next job would be to strip down the throttle body and give it a good clean including the idle control valve (iacv).
Click to expand...
Actually, the 2.4 doesn't have an IACV. The DBW on it means that the ECU controls the throttle position for a cold-start. Only the K20 has it.

Spent ages look for it on mine once upon a time.. :blush:
 
ok well am now still none the wiser on what to do. I have got me a new fuel filter from honda today and will give that a go. If it fixes the problem then will let you know.
 
If it's only rough when cold then I would draw my attention to pulleys. Can you describe the sound at all? Is it more engine lumpiness, like spluttering?
 
yer pulleys??? Please explaine? The car runs fine after a few seconds of starting up cold, its the few seconds I am trying to find out why it seems like its only running on two cilinders, also my car does not v-tech at all and trust me I had an ep3 for a few years and I dont get the step in power at all.
 
Jon_G said:
Well, certainly there are pulleys, but I'm puzzled about how they might cause misfiring?
Click to expand...
I'm not disagreeing at all, but the OP just says "in the mornings when I first start it up it runs very rough for about 3-5 secs", which can mean absolutely anything.

It could be a nest of hamsters in the engine compartment, and each morning one of the hamsters falls onto the aux belt, and gets crushed to bits in the pulleys.
 
Jon_G said:
You don't get this level of weirdness with diesel Accords...
Click to expand...
that's because diesel Accords go wrong so often, that everyone knows the issues

I'm sure there was the diesel or two with seized (or nearly seized) alternators, maybe those cars had nests of hamsters in the engine compartment too

note: hamster aka gremlin
 
Jon_G said:
Well, certainly there are pulleys, but I'm puzzled about how they might cause misfiring?
Click to expand...
When was misfiring mentioned? It was a rough idle on cold start for a few seconds. Belts/pulleys have caused squeaks/rattles in the cold on many cars in the past.

He's since said it sounds like it's not running on all cylinders when it starts. The fact that it's not hitting vtec suggests to me there's possibly a relatively serious issue far beyond my expertise.

I would ***ume though that if it's not hitting vtec that it will know about it and throw a code up. Have you plugged an OBDII scanner in to check for faults?
 
No not yet, wilth work I dont realy have the time, will just take it easy till I find the time to book into a garage. Just a note the car does red line in all gears, its just there is no step in power when it should. Maybe fuel starvation thats why I am changing the fuel filter. Hamsters and all that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Not sure where hamsters have come from.

Putting this thread back on topic, you mentioned you feel no vtec. Have you checked your oil level?

I didn't realise these cars didn't have an iacv which is interesting. Have you tried starting the car giving it some throttle, does it stutter through the revs?
 
Accords said:
Just a note the car does red line in all gears, its just there is no step in power when it should.
Click to expand...
There is no step in power on these, I didn't want to say, but this is a 7th gen K-series, DOHC i-VTEC, it's not the same.

The problem is just a cold-start problem, it could literally be anything, a few suggests already made are all possible. Could even be that the oil pressure is taking time to get up to pressure and affecting the camshafts. I suggest an oil change to 0-30W and an oil filter change. Hamsters in this engine need clean oil.
 
Hi mate, just in from doing an oil change, the old oil was realy black. the guy who I got the car from said it just had a service, but it didnt say on the ticket what oil whent in so did the service just peace of mind. But put in 5w-30 wich was recomended. Took it for a spin and seemed to be much quicker. Also one point when I cheked the oil the other day it was over the high dot on the dipstick so glad its done now.
 
There have been loads of threads on here about the best oil for the 2.4 K-series and also for the 2.2 diesel (strangely, not so many threads about oil for the 2.0 petrol).

It seems that there's even a difference between dealers. The dealer I used to go to, did put in Castrol Edge 0-30W, and that's what I've used ever since I abandoned using rip-off dealers. If my memory of all the threads is correct, then that also seems to be the majority opinion for the K24.

But, if the oil was black, then that is not good. If I were you, I'd run it for a while on the stuff you've put in, then change it. In effect, use "cheap" oil as a means of flushing (fgs never use engine flush on these engines).

You can check the VTEC like this ....find a clear road and drive very slowly in 1st gear, slowly going up in revs. When it reaches 6000 the car will "lurch" a bit. You could also try it in neutral and you'll get the same effect, but you're better off with it in gear, especially if it's recently had old oil in it.
 
I wouldn't say it's "normal" as such because I've had the car since January 2006 and the first time it ever did this was about 3 years ago, and it does it more frequently now. I suspect a possible oil-pump issue.
 
Well I will keep an eye on it. Am fitting a new fuel filter in the morning so will let you know if it changes anything.
 
Ok so no change with the new fuel filter, but am glad its done as the filter part of the main filter was very dark, so needed it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top