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Coolant bleeding

A5TR4L

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Location
Watford
Car
Accord Type S 2.4
Hey guys I have a 06 2.4 manual type s. Water pump pulley bearing died so I decided to do a big overhaul since I’ll be changing it. I changed the water pump, idler pulley, alternator, starter motor and serpentine belt.

Long story short, after refilling the coolant and following the bleeding procedure as per hondas instructions no I’ve noticed the thermostat isn’t opening, the bottom rad hose is cold and the top one gets hot. To top things off the cooling fan is no longer turning on (as the temp sensor is before the t stat I would think the fan should still come on regardless if the t stat isn’t opening.) I’ve also noticed when I turn the ac on the condenser fan also does not come on.

I’m ***uming as all worked prior to this maybe the t stat isn’t opening due to airlock (inside the car I can hear water sloshing behind the dash), regarding the fans I’ve done the basic fuse/relay checks, given both fans direct power and turn on. Only thing I haven’t tried is jumping the temp sensor switch plug to see if it turns the fans in from there.

Have you guys any ideas on what my next steps should be? Any bleeding secrets? I spent hours trying to get the t stat to open. Could it have gone bad? Doesn’t the car throw a code for a bad t stat? Any help is much appreciated. I did read there is a drain plug under the t stat somewhere, is this accessible? Was thinking of cracking that open to see if it helps get air out but I can’t find a location for it anywhere all I know is that it’s there somewhere
 
Coolant Replacement

1. Start the engine. Set the heater temperature control dial to maximum heat, or climate control system to HI, then turn off the ignition switch. Make sure the engine and radiator are cool to the touch.



2. Remove the radiator cap.



3. Loosen the drain plug (A), and drain the coolant.




A





4. After the coolant has drained, tighten the radiator drain plug.


5. Remove, drain and reinstall the reverse tank.



6. Fill the reserve tank to the MAX mark (A) with genuine Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 (P/N OL999-9001).




A





7. Pour genuine Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 into the radiator up to the base of the filler neck.

NOTE:
  • Always use genuine Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 (P/N OL999-9001). Using a non-Honda coolant can result in corrosion, causing the cooling system to malfunction or fail.
  • Genuine Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 is a mixture of 50 % antifreeze and 50 % water. Do not add water.


Engine Coolant Refill Capacity [including the reserve tank capacity of 0.6[liter] (0.6 US qt, 0.5 Imp qt)] K20A6 engine: M/T: 4.5 [liter] (4.8 US qt, 4.0 Imp qt) A/T: 4.4 [liter] (4.6 US qt, 3.9 Imp qt)


K24A3 engine: M/T: 5.4 [liter] (5.7 US qt, 4.8 Imp qt) A/T: 5.3 [liter] (5.6 US qt, 4.7 Imp qt)











8. Install the radiator cap loosely.



9. Start the engine, and let it run until it warms up (the radiator fan comes on at least twice).



10. Turn off the engine. Check the level in the radiator and add genuine Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 if needed.



11. Put the radiator cap on tightly, then run the engine again and check for leaks.

Hope this may help? sorry no diagrams
 
Thank you but it doesn’t. If you read my post I already done the drain and fill according to hondas method as you stated above. After following the procedure I’m having the issues described in my post.
 
might want to burp the system, that's what I had to do on a m57 bmw powerplant. I fitted a massive funnel over the expansion tank(on the accord you would do it on the radiator cap) and filled it to the brim with coolant, then kept it pegged at 3000rpm for a few minutes to get the coolant to run through the whole system. eventually it all got sucked in
trying different inclines may also help.
either way it will take ludicrous amounts of time for a menial problem
 
Has that walkthrough been posted before Matt ?

It might ***ist any number of Mk7 owners with little/no heating in the winter.
 
Thanks for all the feedback guys. So after an hour of burping, revving and messing about I managed to get the lower hose warm so the thermostat opened. But the fan never came on still. The hose is cooler towards the bottom of the rad so I’m a summing there’s airlock by where the switch is. Anyway yesterday I literally tried for hours and no joy, gave up and booked it into Honda, I know they have vaccume bleeders. How dumb is it the k series engines don’t have bleeder valves :/
 
Probably a bit late now you have booked the car in, did the dealership confirm there is no bleed point(s) on your car ?
 
Did you try removing the switch until water comes out and putting it straight back?
 
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