CV Replacement Parts

[chesjak]

Hi Guys

I need to sort my drive shafts out. Usual problem -worn cv's I think!!

I think I can get away with just replacing the cv's rather than replacing the whole drive shafts.

A couple of questions if I may.

Does anyone know of a good supplier for these bit together with new boot, nut and boot fixing bands etc apart from going to an expensive Honda dealer?

Will I have to completely drain the gearbox before I take the shaft out or not?

Has anyone done this and if so how tricky is it?

Any help would be appreciated.

Regards

 

[Goodluckmonkey]

I've removed the outer cv's before on cars with the shafts still connected at the 'box to save draining it, but if you pull the inner cups, you're gonna have a lot of oil on your drive unless you drain the 'box first.

You may find the hardest bit is undoing the driveshaft nut.
Some pillock's massively over torqued mine with a rattle gun (approx 1/8th of a turn past their original staked positions) so when the time eventually comes I'll finally have the excuse to buy myself a rattle gun.

Undoing the bottom ball joint, I jack the control arm from under the (already undone) castle nut, so the weight of the car and the suspension's trying to separate the joint from the arm.
Big whack on the side of the arm where the lower joint goes through, and they'll separate.

 

[chesjak]

Hi Goodluckmonkey

Thanks for your reply.

Yeh They are a pig to undo alright. I bought a long wrench bar which helped but still tough though.

How come I have read a few posts that suggest they didn't have any oil come out?? I will drain the oil though, it's about time I changed it anyway.

Do you know somewhere reliable where I can purchase the necessary bit to do the job?

 

[Goodluckmonkey]

I normally use my local private motor factors.

The guy gives good advice, so I'm happy to pay his wage. If it means he's still there when I need something on a Saturday afternoon, then I'm happy to pay a little extra.

I drained the box before I pulled the shafts when I took my motor out a coupl of weeks back. Look in from the n/s and you can as the diff cross-pin.
The level may be just low enough that it does t come out, but I'd use it as as a good excuse to change the gearbox oil at the same time.

Put the motor back in Sunday, and will only fill it once the shafts are back in. (Lowering springs just arrived today, so I'm swapping them while the suspension's apart)

From experience I've always preferred the plastic-y type OE boots cars come with as they last ages.

When I've put the cheap rubbery ones on before, I end up changing them again after 3-4 years.
Depends on how long you plan on keeping the car.

My '05 Subaru Legacy is still on its original cv boots after 125k miles. Really can fault OE bits on jap cars.

I broke a big breaker bar trying to undo one of these driveshaft nuts on the accord, so pulled the while hub ***embly instead. Shifted them on my last accord fine, but that was torqued up at the factory, not by some baboon in a garage.