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Diesel Fuel filter drain plug

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It's going to be a pain if I cant start her to put on the ramps. It looks like the leak is aft of the bulkhead and flows forward. The is nothing to identify the source from the top. The fuellines running near the exhaust look OK all the way forward.

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You don't need to move the car, jack it up under the front and put an axle stand under each of the front scissor-jack points.
 
Axle stands are rather higher than the available space using the Honda Jack, (and the Toyota van), I have ramps in the house.

Since the weather is not going to be too pleasant for the next twelve hours or so I'll have a good think and a search online, though I've already checked through this site with the usual key words.
 
You can't drive these cars up ramps anyway, the front bumper is too low.

Put the jack on some blocks of wood, if you're using a scissor jack and it's too difficult to tuun on high blocks of wood, start with the jack on a low block, insert the ramps a bit, lower the car, insert more wood, raise the car, push the ramps in further, etc, etc .
 
freddofrog said:
You can't drive these cars up ramps anyway, the front bumper is too low.

Put the jack on some blocks of wood, if you're using a scissor jack and it's too difficult to tuun on high blocks of wood, start with the jack on a low block, insert the ramps a bit, lower the car, insert more wood, raise the car, push the ramps in further, etc, etc .
I have the classic Halfords ramps and she has been on them before with no issues (the tyres hang over the sides and I make sure there are a couple of bricks inside the angle iron in case the rust has weakened them)
 
I've also got some ancient (30 years old) Halfords ramps and the Accord won't drive up them because the distance from front bumper to the wheel is too long, and the bumper is too low, so the bumper catches the ramps and pushes them away.

Car ramps are also really old hat, you're much better off with a trolley jack and axle stands.

Either way, as described, using scissor jack or short trolley jack, you can lift a car up at the front (and back) by using blocks of wood. Car ramps do help in that situation to ***ist with jacking a few inches at a time. With that method you can get the car up so that the axle stands extend quite a bit. I've done it once when the seal was leaking on the trolley jack.
 
The one thing I don't have is a working trolley jack.

With standard suspension and tyres, I have about half an inch clearance betwen the ramps and the spoiler, though having a lot of stuff in the boot helps.

I'd forgotten about using the starter motor to get up the ramp, time to charge battery again.
 
Channel Hopper said:
The one thing I don't have is a working trolley jack.
Neither did I when the seal was leaking (sourced a new seal several days later), so I used the scissor-jack that came with the car, you can use blocks of wood to lift it at the front a bit at a time, slide the car ramps in, release jack, more wood, raise car again, slide ramps in further, etc, etc.
 
Maybe hire a fork lift and end all your troubles

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fC9SAqu0OhE
 
After a week of no car - and accompanying loss of income - that might be a good solution.

A number of people did say don't buy a Japanese Diesel before I went for the Accord, but the Nissan Vanette had been utterly reliable bar one injector/one loom issue in four years that I thought it couldn't be as bad as suggested.
 
freddofrog said:
I've also got some ancient (30 years old) Halfords ramps and the Accord won't drive up them because the distance from front bumper to the wheel is too long, and the bumper is too low, so the bumper catches the ramps and pushes them away.

Car ramps are also really old hat, you're much better off with a trolley jack and axle stands.

Either way, as described, using scissor jack or short trolley jack, you can lift a car up at the front (and back) by using blocks of wood. Car ramps do help in that situation to ***ist with jacking a few inches at a time. With that method you can get the car up so that the axle stands extend quite a bit. I've done it once when the seal was leaking on the trolley jack.
Two blocks of 9"x2" under the front edge of my ramps solves this problem nicely.

Far easier than all the effort of jacking the thing up too.
 
C/H, have you checked the joints and the bleed nut at the fuel filter for leaks, and also the priming bulb for any splits.

These would allow the fuel to leak back and introduce air into the line before the fuel pump.

As you've found, once there's air in the line (your original problem.was caused by not using the bleed at the filter - which isn't noted in the forum how-to either) that it takes an eternity to crank the air through and out of the system.

I'd check the simple (and cheap) bits first, before stripping everything apart.

If it comes to it, I have a spare (known good) fuel pump on the bench.
If it's injector leak, that's a specialist refurb job.
 
Checking the rail over-pressure valve for leakage and the injectors for excessive leak-back are pretty simple jobs that should have already been done!
 
Goodluckmonkey said:
Far easier than all the effort of jacking the thing up too.
He hasn't got the engine running and says he wants to take a look from underneath , reckons he can drive a diesel with injectors still in, up a car ramp, using the starter motor :eek:
IMO it's safer and easier to jack it up using the scissor-jack at the front using blocks of wood, and then insert axle stands.
I use my trolley jack, car goes straight up, and axle stands straight in. Same at the back.
 
But it starts, why not drive it up? The leak is described as being 'aft of the bulkhead and flows forward', so running the engine isn't going to result in a fountain of diesel (lovely as that might be).
 
Jon_G said:
But it starts, why not drive it up? The leak is described as being 'aft of the bulkhead and flows forward', so running the engine isn't going to result in a fountain of diesel (lovely as that might be).
It did \/
Channel Hopper said:
She's going


and then it didn't \/

Channel Hopper said:
And, back to square 1.

Tried starting today and OK for first ten seconds, then died.

Looked under car after cranking to find a pool of diesel dripping from the subframe on the left, directly under the fuel filter. Trouble is, the pipes and filter are as dry as a bone, right down to the device just underneth it where the flexible pipes go.

Channel Hopper said:
It's going to be a pain if I cant start her to put on the ramps. It looks like the leak is aft of the bulkhead and flows forward. The is nothing to identify the source from the top. The fuellines running near the exhaust look OK all the way forward.

Channel Hopper said:
I'd forgotten about using the starter motor to get up the ramp, time to charge battery again.


Does anyone remember "Natasha" :lol:
 
My ramp comment wasnt to do with Channel Hoppers situation, Freddo said 7th Gen accords don't go up the ramps.

Mine's got one got less than 1 finger of arch gap, and it does.

A ramp doesn't slip out from under a car, and gives me more room to move about under there than having axle stands user the subframe does.


Had it on ramps the other week when I changed my cracked exhaust manifold.

But to each their own.
 
Well my CM2 (and many other post-2000 cars) don't go up my ramps.

It's a lot quicker and easier to jack it up at the front (or back) and stick axle stands at the scissor-jack jacking-points (that's what the ESM recommends). That way, if you wish, you can remove both front wheels (or both rear wheels) and get to everything very easily, including calipers etc (which you can't do with ramps).
 
It's a lot quicker (For me anyway) to drive it up a pair of ramps.

If the wheels ate coming off, then yes, the trolley jack comes out.

The point wasn't whats best, it's that you said it doesn't go up an old set of Halfords ramps, and I said that with a block under the nose of the ramp, it does.

https://imgur.com/gallery/2u1G5

And my car's so low, the front lip won't go over a kerb.
 
Goodluckmonkey said:
It's a lot quicker (For me anyway) to drive it up a pair of ramps.

If the wheels ate coming off, then yes, the trolley jack comes out.

The point wasn't whats best, it's that you said it doesn't go up an old set of Halfords ramps, and I said that with a block under the nose of the ramp, it does.

https://imgur.com/gallery/2u1G5

And my car's so low, the front lip won't go over a kerb.
So you reckon it's quicker and simpler to drag out a load of wood and two ramps, line them up, get in the car, drive it up ....than it is to wheel out the trolley jack, jack the car up, and stick an axle stand in each side ?

If the seal in the trolley jack goes again, I might try that, but otherwise not. In the case where the engine isn't running, with trolley jack inop, one would have to get out the scissor jack and the ramps, and some wood to raise the scissor jack.
 
Yeah,
2 blocks of wood, 2 ramps, or
2 axles stands, trolley jack, jack handle.

Still 4 items and 2 trips up and down the drive to me.

I don't care how you raise your car, I use both methods. I like to not have the axle stands in my way under there unless strictly necessary, and find driving up a pair of ramps far easier.

You just said that his car wouldn't go up a set of ramps, but it could, that's all.



People told me my car wouldn't take an N22A2 motor; it did, it's even got a turbo I put together from both accord and civic parts.

I swapped out all the injector nozzles myself with the injector held between 2 flanged nuts in a vice, just like you shouldn't be able to, and Fahad will conform how well they worked when my car was plugged in.

According to what a lot of people have said on here, half the parts my car has should be no good, and the way I decide to do things is completely different to the mighty manual.

Same old, same old. Too many people love the words can't and doesn't a bit too much.
 
Goodluckmonkey said:
Yeah,
2 blocks of wood, 2 ramps, or
2 axles stands, trolley jack, jack handle.

Still 4 items and 2 trips up and down the drive to me.

I don't care how you raise your car, I use both methods. I like to not have the axle stands in my way under there unless strictly necessary, and find driving up a pair of ramps far easier.

You just said that his car wouldn't go up a set of ramps, but it could, that's all.



People told me my car wouldn't take an N22A2 motor; it did, it's even got a turbo I put together from both accord and civic parts.

I swapped out all the injector nozzles myself with the injector held between 2 flanged nuts in a vice, just like you shouldn't be able to, and Fahad will conform how well they worked when my car was plugged in.

According to what a lot of people have said on here, half the parts my car has should be no good, and the way I decide to do things is completely different to the mighty manual.

Same old, same old. Too many people love the words can't and doesn't a bit too much.
Trolley jack has wheels and the handle slots in, so you push it along while carrying the stands, so it's only 1 journey.
Plus there's no lining up to do, plus no getting into the driver's seat and starting the engine.
Plus the stands aren't in the way, they're at the sides, not on the subframe.

and I was right these cars don't go up on car ramps, unless you resort to adding things to the ramps :p

And I fail to see what the engine in your car has to do with any of this thread, shall I talk about all the engines I've taken out of cars and replaced ....petrol mind you, but big and heavy cast iron LOL

and when the engine isn't running, the ramp is no good either, which is where it started when I offered advice about jacking the car up ......Threads within threads. gotta love 'em.
 
freddofrog said:
Trolley jack has wheels and the handle slots in, so you push it along while carrying the stands, so it's only 1 journey.
Plus there's no lining up to do, plus no getting into the driver's seat and starting the engine.
Plus the stands aren't in the way, they're at the sides, not on the subframe.

and I was right these cars don't go up on car ramps, unless you resort to adding things to the ramps :p

And I fail to see what the engine in your car has to do with any of this thread, shall I talk about all the engines I've taken out of cars and replaced ....petrol mind you, but big and heavy cast iron LOL

and when the engine isn't running, the ramp is no good either, which is where it started when I offered advice about jacking the car up ......Threads within threads. gotta love 'em.
Last word on raising the tourer, it has gone up on the Halfords/Seeley type ramps a number of times with no trouble and no additional ***istance with blocks or extenders. I am however waiting for the road to dry before doing so. I have no reason to doubt that in first gear the starter motor could be used.
 
Jon_G said:
But it starts, why not drive it up? The leak is described as being 'aft of the bulkhead and flows forward', so running the engine isn't going to result in a fountain of diesel (lovely as that might be).
As of Sunday, she no longer starts and as you can see from the images, this is a large amount of diesel. I spent much of yesterday travelling to borrow a friends car while I am working on the fuel leak.
 
Goodluckmonkey said:
C/H, have you checked the joints and the bleed nut at the fuel filter for leaks, and also the priming bulb for any splits.
These would allow the fuel to leak back and introduce air into the line before the fuel pump.
As you've found, once there's air in the line (your original problem.was caused by not using the bleed at the filter - which isn't noted in the forum how-to either) that it takes an eternity to crank the air through and out of the system.
I'd check the simple (and cheap) bits first, before stripping everything apart.
If it comes to it, I have a spare (known good) fuel pump on the bench.
If it's injector leak, that's a specialist refurb job.
What I could se on Sunday before the rain started was a completely dry area around the top of the engine near the filter and ***ociated pipes, though I had commenced on taking the hand pump support plate apart to check the filter and bleed valve once again. Feeling around behind and under the canister confirms it is dry though.
I had undone and bled, making sure to retighten once the air was out but I suppose I could have damaged the thread ( though I would expect fuel to be everywhere up top if this was the case).

The last few times she wouldn't start when hot might have been a precursor to something like a potential pipe fracture. My second BX diesel had a pinhole in one of the tank returns that let air in, leading to poor starting but was never a roadside breakdown (the same manual pump exists under the bonnet btw).
 
freddofrog said:
And I fail to see what the engine in your car has to do with any of this thread.......
It was an example. Everyone loves to say "you can't..... or such-and-such doesn't go in such-and-such"

And they all do this without doing any research.

Everything fits, there's no such word as can't, and it's only people's own lack of self belief that stops them getting things done.

Ramps are something small and seemingly insignificant, but its another case of can't, as opposed to you can if you do this...
 
Goodluckmonkey said:
It was an example. Everyone loves to say "you can't..... or such-and-such doesn't go in such-and-such"

And they all do this without doing any research.

Everything fits, there's no such word as can't, and it's only people's own lack of self belief that stops them getting things done.

Ramps are something small and seemingly insignificant, but its another case of can't, as opposed to you can if you do this...
Well when I were a lad, axle stands and a trolley jack very expensive, these days they're not, so in the 21st century I can't see any reason for not using them. If I also took my tools to help someone, the axle stands and trolley jack would also go in the car, turning up with car ramps would look juvenile. I guess it's a matter of me no longer being a lad and being wiser. I can't be bothered to replace wisdom with out-dated thinking.
 
Channel Hopper said:
Last word on raising the tourer, it has gone up on the Halfords/Seeley type ramps a number of times with no trouble and no additional ***istance with blocks or extenders. I am however waiting for the road to dry before doing so. I have no reason to doubt that in first gear the starter motor could be used.

So how far have you got in looking from underneath ?

What about using scissor-jack and blocks of wood to raise the car while shoving car ramps in ?

To quote Goodluckmonkey "it's only people's own lack of self belief that stops them getting things done."
 
Can I just sit on the fence and declare that I'm happy to use either ramps or jacks/supports depending on what I'm doing and how I feel?

But I am envious of those with access to a 4-post lift. I once had access to several, but no longer (and I do miss it)...
 
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