Menu
What's new
By:
Advanced search...

DIY 7th Gen Pre-Facelift Diesel Fuel Filter Change

What a pain.

Unfortunately without bleeding the filter first it's just going to try and pump air.

The way the guide's written in the first posts, it doesn't address the fact that you can potentially get a pocket of air trapped at the top of the filter, and that bolt's there to eliminate that too.

I used the banjo bolt on top of the diesel pump to bleed the line as well as I'd done a motor swap so everything was dry from the filter onwards.
 
Goodluckmonkey said:
What a pain.

Unfortunately without bleeding the filter first it's just going to try and pump air.

The way the guide's written in the first posts, it doesn't address the fact that you can potentially get a pocket of air trapped at the top of the filter, and that bolt's there to eliminate that too.

I used the banjo bolt on top of the diesel pump to bleed the line as well as I'd done a motor swap so everything was dry from the filter onwards.
Click to expand...
well thanks all she's back on the road again, will I change the filter again yes I'm sure I will!
 
luke w said:
I don't suppose anyone has this as a PDF with the pictures still do they?
Click to expand...
P.M. me an email address, you can have it direct from the author ;)
 
Owing to recent changes in Photobucket’s image hosting service some of the information contained in this thread may have been lost.

Until I’ve found a suitable alternative image hosting service, and the time to re-write the post I have uploaded the original as a PDF here:

http://jmp.sh/SGnnNzQ

Note that this is also uses a free hosting service, which may change its T&Cs in time, or go off line entirely. Until then though, it may help someone…
 
Just changed my filter last night. Don't faff around trying to get at that elusive bolt on the back of the filter, remove the whole thing from the car complete with bracket and (what I ***ume is) the diesel heater unit. I did and it was fairly straight forward, just used a 10mm socket and two extension bars of different lengths, no mirrors, no miniature ratchets, no knuckle joints. Obviously still had to remove the air box, and I also removed the throttle position sensor, but I'm not entirely convinced this was necessary.
Also, once I'd removed it complete, and had a good look at the bracketry, I reckon it could be even simpler next time, by undoing the two bolts and two nuts that hold the clamp part to the bracket and leaving half of the bracket still attached to the bulkhead.
I'll post a picture of the whole item removed as soon as I can work out how.
 
oakeedokee said:
Just changed my filter last night. Don't faff around trying to get at that elusive bolt on the back of the filter, remove the whole thing from the car complete with bracket and (what I ***ume is) the diesel heater unit. I did and it was fairly straight forward, just used a 10mm socket and two extension bars of different lengths, no mirrors, no miniature ratchets, no knuckle joints. Obviously still had to remove the air box, and I also removed the throttle position sensor, but I'm not entirely convinced this was necessary.
Also, once I'd removed it complete, and had a good look at the bracketry, I reckon it could be even simpler next time, by undoing the two bolts and two nuts that hold the clamp part to the bracket and leaving half of the bracket still attached to the bulkhead.
I'll post a picture of the whole item removed as soon as I can work out how.
Click to expand...
Imgur can host the images.
 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/137155451@N07/23983462618/in/dateposted-public/

This is the rear view of the complete ***embly. It easier to get this out than fiddle around the back blindly trying to get at the clamp bolt.
However if you look closely at the centre of the bracket, you can see it is in two halves with a rubber bush in between the two. These can be separated in situ by undoing the two nuts which are on the other side of those two black rivets to the left of the filter in the photo, and the two bolt to the right of it in the photo .
 
Thanks for all the guides. Car seems to be fine for a few trips. Real test is tomorrow for my commute.

I did this this morning because I knew the engine would be cold as it was not used since the night before.

Took me three hours, purely because it was my first major DIY (after my first DIY oil change yesterday). No sensors, plugs, or other filters/boxes needed removing.

Wear gloves-all pipe clips are razor sharp. If you don't care about scratches on your skin then it's probably (I hold no responsibility) better not to use gloves as they kept catching on to the (many) pipe clips. Double-edged sword.

Don't be afraid to take breaks, my back is still aching from bending over (no jokes please).

1-Remove engine cover - 4 10mm bolts (bolts face up)
2-Undo bulb clamp cover - 2 10mm bolts (bolts face front of car)
3-Remove bulb bracket- 2 10mm bolts (need to remove the bulb from its bracket to undo the left bolt (or use a spanner from the left side) (bolts face front of car)
4-Slide off the clips on the filter pipes using pliers
5-Loosen the 10mm bolt behind the filter (bolt faces right). If you can't get to this, make some jiggle room via one or more of the following lettered steps (I used all but I'm a novice):
a) Undo the (two?) 10mm nut(s) to the right of the filter (nut faces front of car) (I've lost mine now)
b ) Undo the 10mm bolt to the left of the filter (bolt faces left)
c) Undo the 10mm bolt about 5cm behind b ) above (bolt faces left)
d) Unclip pipe clipped to front of filter using finger in green tab
e) Unclip by hand input and output fuel piper from the pipe clips to the right and back of the filter
6-Pull old filter out. If you can't pull it all the way out, use one or more of the lettered steps above for jiggle room.
7-Put new filter in at the right orientation (bolt at top, pipes at bottom)
8-Tighten bolt behind the filter
9-Redo any lettered steps you did in reverse order
10-Re-attach fuel input pipe to clip and filter
11-Put rag under filter output pipe to catch any fuel from step 12 priming
12-Squeeze bulb until it goes hard and fuel comes out of filter. Mine took 36 squeezes
13-Re-attach fuel output pipe to clip (I thought this would never go back in) and filter
14-Squeeze bulb until it goes hard again. I think mine took another 3 squeezes
15-Start engine. Mine did not work first time. I turned off and started again and this time it worked although it took a little longer than prior to this operation to start*
16-I read you must rev at 1500rpm for 30 seconds to get all air out so I did this
17-Return bulb to bracket, re-bolt housing to body, re-bolt bulb cover
18-Thank God that's over, stretch, then wash hands

Disclaimers:
1-My hands weren't scratched but the gloves were utterly destroyed
2-My hands were irritated for about 6 hours but seem fine now
3-One guide said to "check the water drain valve on the bottom is nipped up" after step 6. I don't know what this meant so I didn't do this.
4-After step 13 I read you should loosen the 10mm bolt at the top of the filter to get rid of air in the top of the filter with another prime. I didn't do this because I was knackered at this point
* None of the guides I read stated what you should do if your car doesn't start at step 15 so I'm so sorry I cannot help here. I think I would have cried at this point if it happened to me.

Let me know if you want photos and I will add photos to each of the steps. I will reuse photos already on this thread and putting arrows. If you don't want me using your photos let me know and I'll remove them.
 
Always a satisfying feeling to tackle a job yourself.
 
Thanks. Engine starting time has reverted to normal after two 10 minute trips yesterday, and I go to work safely on a 40 minute journey. I'm travelling 200 miles on the motorway on Thursday so I'll put my foot down and see if I still get cut outs. The old filter had been in the car for two or three years and was unbranded.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top