Hi
To do this DIY you need
* 12 V relay
* relay harness
* test pins or thin nails
* soldering tool
* multimeter/voltmeter
I have experienced lately that my window on the passenger, and the 2 in the back is not working.
When using the power switch on the driver side door to control the other three windows, I hear click, but the three windows won't move. When using the power switch on the passenger door, or the rear doors, there is no click sound, window won't go down either.
I have tried the resetting, still the same
And i realy dont think all of the 3 window engines are bad at the same time.
Usually, this is due to a faulty door multiplex control unit, which is incorporated into the power window master switch.
There is a test you can do, to check if the windows will work.
At the 23-P connector for the door multiplex control unit, attach a wire to cavity 3 (where the WHT/GRN wire is), with the connector plugged back in, turn the ignition to ON. Ground the WHT/GRN wire to body and try to operate the other three windows. If they work with ground to the WHT/GRN wire; but, doesn't when it is not grounded, then it is a faulty door multiplex control unit.
For the front passenger window and rear windows to work, they need to receive voltage coming via the power window relay (a relay is basically a type of switch). The power window relay is a normally-open type relay. If the door multiplex control unit sends a ground signal via the Wht/Grn wire to the power window relay, the relay will close, which allow voltage to fuses, 24, 25, and 26.
The left rear window switch receives voltage through fuse 24, the right rear window switch receives voltage through fuse 25, and the right front window switch receives voltage through fuse 26. By attaching a wire to cavity 3 (where the Wht/Grn wire is) and grounding it, the power window relay closes, which then allow voltage to the front passenger switch and rear window switches.
I did drive for a couple of days with the jumper between cavity 3 and cavity 4. All the windows did work all the time, BUT my battery was draiened. Therfore I mounted a relay to control the "grounding between cavity 2 and 3 on the 23-P connector.
I used a voltmeter to find steeringvoltage to my rely, I found this at the cavity 20 i belive it was (yellow/red) On this cavity there is only present 12 V ehen the ignition is on, so this means that when the igmition is of, the windows will not work. When I had the jumper, I could operate the windows even with the ignition off.
A picture of the relay I used
I soldered the wiers
I used "test pins" so all i had to do was to stick the relay wiers with the test pins into the 23-P connector.
The relay was just put inside under the panel, alot of room.
The reason i did this is that my delar had an insane price on this part, and I wanted the windows to work incase of an emergancy. I will buy a new after a while at Ebay, but fornow this works for now. The harness is still untuched since I used the test pins insted of soldering the wiers together.
Does anybody have the diagram of the 23 p connector, or the diagram of the multiplexer circut bort? If I had this I mayby could find out the component on the board that has failed
To do this DIY you need
* 12 V relay
* relay harness
* test pins or thin nails
* soldering tool
* multimeter/voltmeter
I have experienced lately that my window on the passenger, and the 2 in the back is not working.
When using the power switch on the driver side door to control the other three windows, I hear click, but the three windows won't move. When using the power switch on the passenger door, or the rear doors, there is no click sound, window won't go down either.
I have tried the resetting, still the same
And i realy dont think all of the 3 window engines are bad at the same time.
Usually, this is due to a faulty door multiplex control unit, which is incorporated into the power window master switch.
There is a test you can do, to check if the windows will work.
At the 23-P connector for the door multiplex control unit, attach a wire to cavity 3 (where the WHT/GRN wire is), with the connector plugged back in, turn the ignition to ON. Ground the WHT/GRN wire to body and try to operate the other three windows. If they work with ground to the WHT/GRN wire; but, doesn't when it is not grounded, then it is a faulty door multiplex control unit.
For the front passenger window and rear windows to work, they need to receive voltage coming via the power window relay (a relay is basically a type of switch). The power window relay is a normally-open type relay. If the door multiplex control unit sends a ground signal via the Wht/Grn wire to the power window relay, the relay will close, which allow voltage to fuses, 24, 25, and 26.
The left rear window switch receives voltage through fuse 24, the right rear window switch receives voltage through fuse 25, and the right front window switch receives voltage through fuse 26. By attaching a wire to cavity 3 (where the Wht/Grn wire is) and grounding it, the power window relay closes, which then allow voltage to the front passenger switch and rear window switches.
I did drive for a couple of days with the jumper between cavity 3 and cavity 4. All the windows did work all the time, BUT my battery was draiened. Therfore I mounted a relay to control the "grounding between cavity 2 and 3 on the 23-P connector.
I used a voltmeter to find steeringvoltage to my rely, I found this at the cavity 20 i belive it was (yellow/red) On this cavity there is only present 12 V ehen the ignition is on, so this means that when the igmition is of, the windows will not work. When I had the jumper, I could operate the windows even with the ignition off.
A picture of the relay I used
I soldered the wiers
I used "test pins" so all i had to do was to stick the relay wiers with the test pins into the 23-P connector.
The relay was just put inside under the panel, alot of room.
The reason i did this is that my delar had an insane price on this part, and I wanted the windows to work incase of an emergancy. I will buy a new after a while at Ebay, but fornow this works for now. The harness is still untuched since I used the test pins insted of soldering the wiers together.
Does anybody have the diagram of the 23 p connector, or the diagram of the multiplexer circut bort? If I had this I mayby could find out the component on the board that has failed