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Drive Shaft

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Blue2

Members
Messages
31
Reaction score
7
Location
Co.Meath, Ireland.
Car
Accord iCTDi
Hello Lads,
Just to report that the thorough inlet manifold / head-port / butterfly and EGR clean has given the car a new lease of life- much brisker and livlier.
If I buy another Accord it will be the first job I'll do.
Anyway, Wife has the car back and she's happy, but last week she mentioned a shuddering when she was accellerating to join the motoway..
I didn't take much notice, but in hindsight I should've checked it then and there, cos she dosen't normally tell me about things like that until they're totally fecked / fallen off.
So I happened to find myself driving us to the cinema on Friday nite (The Watch- funnny!) and as soon as I left the village and gave it some diesel up the main road, it started shaking through the whole car from the front. I took it really handy all the 6miles, just accelerating gently and the same home-- no probs.
Checked it next day up on the ramp and found that I was able to rattle the offside driveshaft at the inner C.V. just after the support bearing..it seems totally banjaxed.
Am correct in beliveing that it's possible to buy just the inner C.V. part rather than the complete shaft.
BTW, since finding this site a few weeks back, I've discovered a wealth of Honda related knowledge, so thanks to all here. :D
 
Been into the Honda dealer today. The inner pot that contains the C.V. joint on the drivers side is available for 385 Euro VAT included.
 
Blue2 said:
Been into the Honda dealer today. The inner pot that contains the C.V. joint on the drivers side is available for 385 Euro VAT included.
Click to expand...


Hi there,
You should have a look at the following website;
http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_car_parts_selection_pfk.php?block_01=17SEA01&block_02=B__2100&block_03=3064
They are selling inboard ***emblies much cheaper it seems!
 
jmcg said:
Hi there,
You should have a look at the following website;
http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_car_parts_selection_pfk.php?block_01=17SEA01&block_02=B__2100&block_03=3064
They are selling inboard ***emblies much cheaper it seems!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the link. Excellent price there..
But I went to my trusty Motor Factors and i can get a complete shaft (from carrier bearing to hub) for 115 Euro.
Can't argue with that even if it does fail somewhere down the line.
Wil keep ye posted as to how it goes...
 
Doc said:
What did you use to clean the EGR? Or whats best to use?
Click to expand...

I removed the EGR, butterfly and inlet manifold and cleaned them in the parts washer at work, which is used to clean heavy-mobile-plant engine components.
I don't know exactly what the fluid in the washer is.. It still took a good bit of scraping and poking with a long flat-blade screwdriver to get all the gunk out of the manifold.
The EGR itself wasn't bad- just sooty.. cleaned it with a rag and WD40 and made sure it was moving.
If you soak the manifold in diesel overnight and then scrub it out, it should do the job.
The manifold is divided into two chambers, with one chamber feeding 4 large ports and the other chamber feeding 4 small ports. The EGR gas feeds into the chamber that feeds the small ports and that fouls up the most.
The cylinder head has 8 inlet ports matching the inlet manifold, and again it's the 4 small ports that are contaminated.
With the manifold removed it's easy enough to clean these out with a flat screwdriver.
 
you are wasting your time getting non OEM drive shafts/Boot joints for 100quid or so.

they wont cut the job and i am pretty sure the problem will resurface again.

I got inner and outer boot joints from heel toe in the USA, OEM parts and awesome packaging, total kit even down to all the rings and grease.

cost was about 350euro inc postage, plus 40quid vat in the uk.

I will do a write up when i get around to it.
 
I hear what you're saying Eric.. but I've used spurious parts before (particurlarly this brand) with no problems so I'm fine with using these driveshafts.
I'm sure they'll outlast my ownership of the car so I don't see the point of expensive genuine parts.
If the car was a low mileage long-term keeper, then I would probably use OEM.
You got a good deal there alright from the U.S., look forward to the writeup.
 
Aye, I don't intend to replace the accord any time soon so I was fine with spending on OEM parts.

Have a write up done, excellent parts and service from the USA. Car drives beautifully.
 
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