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EGR Plate Clean (F18B2)

jsmith89

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Location
Newmarket, Suffolk, UK
Car
1.8 VTEC Sport
I've read a few posts and bits on the internet about the EGR plate on the 6th Gen Accord's but because my Accord is low mileage I didn't think that it would need cleaning out. So as I had nothing to do last weekend I thought what the hell I'll take it apart and see what's what. Oh god! I was so wrong! Even though my Accord is low mileage the EGR plate and the inlet ports were solid with carbon!

The job is a bit fiddly, but massively worth it! The VTEC pick up is more aggressive, the cold start is less rough and the idle is smoother, to be honest the whole drive feels smoother. I can't recommend doing this little clean up enough!

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The EGR plate is located underneath the fuel rail, which is under the wiring harness, which is a pig to move about! Its easy to remove all the pipes / breathers along with unplugging all the various sensors etc. The fiddly bit is moving the wiring harness enough to lift the fuel / injector rail up enough to access the bolts that secure the EGR plate in place.

!!! PERCEIVER !!! I nearly threw in the towel, but just soldier on and don't give in!

The way I done this DIY was the simplest way, so that I didn't have to completely remove the fuel rail, injectors and wiring harness etc from the car! I just undid everything enough to be able to move the various components in the way, out the way and ease the access the EGR plate.

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Remove all the breathers, unplug all the various sensors around the throttle body and fuel rail then follow by sliding the wiring harness up out the way as far as it will stretch.

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This view is from the back of the engine near the throttle body looking down below the fuel rail. You can just see the rounded EGR cover hiding there.

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Once all the bolts securing the fuel rail are removed, unplug the injectors and gently pull up the rail out of its position in the inlet. It should just easily pull up and out without fuss. Make sure not to damage the injectors and also do not loose any of the rubber washers on the injectors.

The plate is a long piece of metal secured by 2 bolts to the top of the inlet manifold. Without removing the entire fuel rail and wiring harness its quite awkward to photograph the steps, but it becomes pretty obvious when you're under there.

There are inlets to the EGR plate from the inlet manifold that get rammed with carbon deposits and these need cleaning out as well. I used a hoover with a crevice tool and at the same time I poked a fine drill bit into the hole to break up the carbon enough for it to be sucked out.

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In the above image you can clearly see the carbon build up was solid just in the inlets alone!

The EGR plate was caked up! I took my time to clean out all the channels in plate along with the gasket to make sure it was mint before putting it all back.

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It was bad! I was stupid to think that my low mileage 6th gen would've been clean inside.

With some time and engine degreaser teamed with some wire wool and wire brush the plate came up like new. It was a pig to clean because the carbon had set solid and it needed some serious elbow grease!

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Follow the steps in reverse, get it all back together and take it for a drive! You'll be amazed at how much of a difference this simple clean will make. I know I was!

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Hope this helps.

Joe
 
Well done, nice job jsmith. I did mine last year but it wasn't as bad as I'd been led to believe, ie not fully blocked just constricted (like my arteries!) I did mine as i had some 'hesitancy', really noticeable, when pulling away. However, when I first took it out after its clean, it stalled on me a couple of times. And it was still hesitant. However, it soon improved and now the hesitancy is (almost!) gone. I think it takes a little time to 'learn' the new air/fuel mixture ratio- anyone concur? I also treat her to regular Shell V power petrol and I think that helps, although I've not seen an increase in my mpg as has been suggested.
 
Since I've owned my Mk6 I've only ever run it on vpower. Mine stalled twice as well. I think you're right with the car having to learn again along with maybe some carbon breaking up in the manifold and being sucked in.
 
Great guide, I should do mine as its developed some hesitancy.

Also V-power is useless on these cars, they aren't programmed to run 98/99 octane fuel, 97 is the highest you can use on these, and BP Ultimate is the best to use.
 
I don't use it because of the octane rating. I get better mpg with it. I've not used BP ultimate yet. I think I'll give it a go.
 
Interesting stuff on the petrol. Not sure I'll give it a go through, as they want 120.9p a litre for it at my local BP garage! I know that's still cheap compared to about a year ago, but still....!!!
 
Damn! That's expensive. Even Vpower is only 111.9p here in Suffolk.

Sainsburys super unleaded is 97. 104.9p a litre here.
 
The composition of the fuel is different, BP Ultimate (excluding the additives) is 100% petrol (for now, will probably change in the future), all other petrol sold in the UK have ethanol in them which is bad for the longevity of the engine, they eat up seals etc in the engine. IMO BP Ultimate is the best fuel you can get, it is expensive and I personally don't use it all the time. I tried Vpower once and my engine didn't like it, run rough, but the fuel lasted longer than anything else, however the cost of the fuel kind of takes away any savings.
 
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