luvmyaccord
6th & Type R Mod
Glad it all worked out for you mate. Also you've now helped my prove that it is possible to get 400+ miles to a tank of fuel for the 6th gens. Very few people seem to be able to manage it.
Engine Warning Light
- Thread starter conyoman
- Start date
hello guys,
I recently have the MIL on
on my 99 Accord (CG9, 4 doors body, engine F20B6)
I managed to short the 2 pin connector below the glovebox and i read the code 41, therefore it is due to primary O2 sensor.
just 2000 miles i replaced the air filter with a K&N spare (genuine airbox shape, not the cone one), do you think the faulty O2 sensor is related? could it be poisoned or got dirty for the increased airflow? or it is a random fault
moreover, i noticed that the body sensor is cold even if the key is turned on for minutes (the engine is not running for sure, just the key switched on). it could be just a faulty sensor heater, but i don't know if in a good working sensor you can feel the body sensor warm or not (it may be insulated). can you give me a feedback?
thanks in advance for your suggestions
I recently have the MIL on
on my 99 Accord (CG9, 4 doors body, engine F20B6) I managed to short the 2 pin connector below the glovebox and i read the code 41, therefore it is due to primary O2 sensor.
just 2000 miles i replaced the air filter with a K&N spare (genuine airbox shape, not the cone one), do you think the faulty O2 sensor is related? could it be poisoned or got dirty for the increased airflow? or it is a random fault
moreover, i noticed that the body sensor is cold even if the key is turned on for minutes (the engine is not running for sure, just the key switched on). it could be just a faulty sensor heater, but i don't know if in a good working sensor you can feel the body sensor warm or not (it may be insulated). can you give me a feedback?
thanks in advance for your suggestions
luvmyaccord
6th & Type R Mod
Chaces are the O2 sensor will have had nothing to do with the filter. The arflow increase is not significant enough to cause the issue as far as i'm aware.
Have you reset the ECU since fitting the filter? Also, when changing the sensors always replace as a pair - if you have 2.
Have you reset the ECU since fitting the filter? Also, when changing the sensors always replace as a pair - if you have 2.
thanks for reply,
no i didn't after changing the filter... but i didn't feel any change for about 2000km
then, engine light turn on a first time but i solved the issue by resetting the ecu (disconnecting 7.5a fuse, at that time i wasn't able to read the error codes from 2-pin connector).
then car run smooth (about 1000 km after the first time, both city and highway) until last week when the light goes on again.
now it does not disappear even after a new ecu reset.
the car now is in garage - i'm waiting for an obd reader to be sure of error code - so i can't say for sure if fuel mileage is getting worse.
only symptom i noticed is irregular idle speed even with warm engine
can you tell me something about the sensor heater? do you feel it warm just turning on the key?
no i didn't after changing the filter... but i didn't feel any change for about 2000km
then, engine light turn on a first time but i solved the issue by resetting the ecu (disconnecting 7.5a fuse, at that time i wasn't able to read the error codes from 2-pin connector).
then car run smooth (about 1000 km after the first time, both city and highway) until last week when the light goes on again.
now it does not disappear even after a new ecu reset.
the car now is in garage - i'm waiting for an obd reader to be sure of error code - so i can't say for sure if fuel mileage is getting worse.
only symptom i noticed is irregular idle speed even with warm engine
can you tell me something about the sensor heater? do you feel it warm just turning on the key?
luvmyaccord
6th & Type R Mod
Unfortunatly irregular idle can be caused by a lot of things. With the light on the garage will be able to give you the code and tell you what needs chanigng/fixing, so hopefully you'll be back up and running in the near future.
I'm also unsure of what you mean by the 'heater sensor'. What are you refering to exactly?
I'm also unsure of what you mean by the 'heater sensor'. What are you refering to exactly?
primary o2 sensor has a electric heater inside, to rise the ceramic probe temperature during start up.
i found that lambda sensor only works well above 300 celsius.
by shortening the 2-pin connector i read code 41 but it refers to two possible faults (P1166/P1167 .. that's why i need the obd scanner). i think one is due to probe failure, the other to the heater.
to be sure, i will have to check the wiring with a tester... maybe tomorrow evening.
car is 13 y old so i'm searching for the cheapest solution, and i want to be sure before buying the lambda sensor.
ps: lambda connector has been already cleaned and checked.
i found that lambda sensor only works well above 300 celsius.
by shortening the 2-pin connector i read code 41 but it refers to two possible faults (P1166/P1167 .. that's why i need the obd scanner). i think one is due to probe failure, the other to the heater.
to be sure, i will have to check the wiring with a tester... maybe tomorrow evening.
car is 13 y old so i'm searching for the cheapest solution, and i want to be sure before buying the lambda sensor.
ps: lambda connector has been already cleaned and checked.
i checkedwith obd scanner and android torque: error codes P1166/1167.
i replaced the primary lambda sensor with denso part "234-9025"
and reset the ecu, and now the car is running well.
if you leave also the car cooldown overnight, turn the key on (not engine) if lambda heater is ok, you can feel the lambda warming up slightly by itself (say 50°C) after one minute.
i also checked the lambdas voltage with the obd scanner and now they react to engine load changes