Menu
What's new
By:
Advanced search...

Help and Thanks

M

Mikkeyb

Members
Messages
28
Reaction score
0
Location
North East UK
Car
Accord SE Exec 2.0i
Hey Guys,

thanks for all the help over the months with my car...

but i still need help... i posted about my engine cutting out... read the previous posts which seem to suspect my ignition switch...

the car basically completely cuts out... as in all the electrics go 'bye bye'... i cleaned the switch the other day and this hasn't resolved it... it was very dirty mind... other than the ignition switch could this complete electric cut out be caused by anything else... its very intermittent... just the other day it cut out in the pouring rain while on the motorway... no wipers no nothing... not the best of times i tell ya... so that is problem one...

problem two.. my car seems to idle at around 400/500... it holds its self on shallow hills but not steeper ones... if i take my foot off the brake i roll back... i've read on here about the IAC... but i cant seem to adjust mine... i took my air intake off and sprayed it with cleaner and once again lots of *****... any suggestions?... other than tightening the throttle cable?...

cheers guys...
 
It could be the mains relay. It's a common fault on these cars. Search in the forum and you will find lot's info on this.

About the idle-speed, don't rely too much on the rpm gauge, since it's not very reliable, at least in the lower rpm's. Mine also "seems" to idle at 400/500, but when I connect an OBD reader, I notice it reality idles at 750rpm, just as it should be.

The idle speed on the 6th gen is not possible to adjust. Also, it's not worth to adjust the acceleration cable. It works at first, but over the time, the ECU will adjust it self to go back to the pre-set idle speed...
 
When you roll back. does the engine keep running or cut out? if it keeps running it is time for a new clutch I am sorry to say. As far as the car ticking over at 500, and not to seem condescending as I have come across this before a lot and all it was was someone reading the RPM gauge incorrectly, are you sure it is 500. just above the base line there is another line that is 500, the line before 1000 RPM is 750. It took me a while to realize that, I thought along with a lot of other people that, that line is 500 as it is on most cars. Again my intention is not to seem condescending but I have seen many people far more experienced than me get that one wrong.

Andy

Also the IACV is self adjusting on our cars. when you clean the valve make sure you follow pedros instructions for getting the ECU to relearn the optimum settings.
 
Are you thinking the first line on the rev counter indicates 500rpm? It is actually 750.
The ignition switch wears out so it will not be dirt in there causing the problem but a mechanical break in the electrical circuits as the worn parts move away from each other. I still reckon it is the ignition barrel.

Tony
 
i'll check the mains relay... think im going to have to replace the ignition switch which is about £60ish?

the car engine keeps running when it rolls back...

i did not know that about the rev counter so thanks... it would appear my car idles at the right speed... but if i rev the engine it drops down and then almost stalls before going back to idle speed, is that normal?

i'll check out his guide...

thanks for the info guys!... very much appreciated...
 
Mikkeyb said:
i'll check the mains relay... think im going to have to replace the ignition switch which is about £60ish?

the car engine keeps running when it rolls back...

i did not know that about the rev counter so thanks... it would appear my car idles at the right speed... but if i rev the engine it drops down and then almost stalls before going back to idle speed, is that normal?

i'll check out his guide...

thanks for the info guys!... very much appreciated...
Click to expand...
Just read your very first post. I did not realize it was an auto. To be honest if the hill is steep the car will not hold its self. The torque converter in the box can only do so much to move the car forward. In saying this it should not take too much throttle to keep the car held. I would say 200-300 rpm if even. once it is inside that your car is running ok I believe, well from that perspective. As far as the electrical problems go I cannot help you. sorry. At least the rev counter issue is clarified. once you reset the ecu you may be ok with the car nearly stalling. Have you cleaned the EGR Port and valve. It is very important you do both. also make sure you resat all the vacuum hoses when you put the icav back together.
 
ahhh cool i guess??... LoL

im not gonna remove the IACV but i sprayed a lot of carb cleaner straight into the air inlet... so hopefully thats helped... ive just disconnected the battery so i will do the ECU reset in the morning... i cleaned the EGR Valve and Plate the other month... what a faff that was... also fully serviced the car... changed fuel filter... so it should be running well...

i'll just get the switch and change it... (just moved my car and the car completely cut out... starting to turn from minor inconvenience to dangerous to annoying... LoL)
 
In all fairness I think you will need to remove the iacv to clean it.

I sprayed a load of carb cleaner into the throttle body and a few weeks later sprayed wynnes egr3 into the air hose (immediately after the airbox).

The problem is that to keep the engine from stalling you need to keep there throttle open at about 2k revs, so the iacv will remain closed and not suck up any of the cleaner.

When I eventually took mine off, it was still coked up with carbon deposits.
 
ICM or Coil in the dizzy may be the problem.

My 1994 Accord started to drop the revs right down when i braked to a stop, almost stalling, then shot back up to normal. Almost had to blip the throttle to stop it stalling.

A few times the electrics just went when driving, everything just stopped for a second.

Then one day it just wouldn't start. Called out the RAC and he suggested either coil or ICM as they are both known to fail.

I replaced one of them (can't remember which now) and it didn't cure the problem, then replaced the other and the car ran sweet from there on. When fitting either the ICM or Coil, i realised in the workshop manual there is a test procedure with a voltmeter that you use to measure the signal though the ICM & coil. My mate is handy with a volt meter, so we checked it out and one of them had definitely failed. Kind of wish i had checked it first, as it would have saved me £80 as i would have only replaced one of them.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top