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Help diagnosing my rear brake problem please

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Location
Worksop
Car
56 Ex diesel saloon
Hi guys.

My handbrake all of a sudden came up really high, and when i released it the n/s/r brake was stuck on. I managed to release it but the handbrake is still very high when applied.
Is this an obvious case of a sticking caliper? I don't mind getting my hands dirty, but not so good at realising what the issue is to start with!
Its a saloon so think the calipers can be wound back. But I have never adjusted a handbrake!

Any thoughts please?

Cheers.
 
Hi

Check the caliper slider pins and regrease if required.

Also check the actual brake caliper to see if there any obvious sign of sticking.

The handbrake is auto adjusting - if the caliper is sticking - that will need to resolved first. I wouldn't adjust the handbrake.
 
Thanks.
Do the calipers need winding back or just pushing?

Thanks
 
Usual pull the "arm" where is connected the cable to the caliper.
From the rear of the car you get it with the arm and pull.
It's hard so don't give up to early.
However you will need to refubish or replace them
 
Thanks.

So if I remove the brake fluid cap, wind back the piston, grease the slider pins and everything is working as it should be, the handbrake will sort itself out?

Thank you again.
 
No.
The mechanism of the handbrake stucked but if you have a bit of mechanical experience you can try to fix it for a short time before rebuilt or replace.
1. Loose the handbrake cables in the cabin ( you have a DIY on here somewhere )
2. Locate the "arm" where the cable is connected and take the cable down
3. Unscrew the nut on it ( from my memory is 12mm )
4. Remove the spring ( be careful here )
5. Take down the "arm"
6. Now you will see a seal/semering with the self adjusting mechanism shaft in the center ( it looks like a shaft with splines around and thread in center )
7. Take a wery small screwdriver and put it between the shaft and the seal ( be careful to not damage the seal )
8. Now use some good quantity of anti rust spray ( spray into the hole you created with the screwdriver )
9. Take away the screwdriver, put back on the "arm" and push and pull it back and forward for some time until the mechanism does not feel completly free
10. Repeat few times the procedure if needed
11. When the mechanism is free lubricate with silicone oil ( in the same hole like before with the anti rust spray )
12. Put everything back in place

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I'm not familiar with saloon rear brakes (tourers are very different) but a common tourer problem is that the pads often 'jam' unless you carefully file/grind down their edges and check they move OK without sticking.
 
Cliffordski said:
Another option is to buy a new reconditioned caliper https://brakeparts.co.uk

If you're not sure how to fit it then a garage wouldn't charge very much - £30 - £50 I would guess.
Click to expand...
Good idea i have used them in the past. :)
 
Hi again.

So when I removed the caliper, the rear, innermost pad was stuck so that would struggle to move. I pried it out, filed the edges and re-greased. I then attempted to wind back the piston. This was quite stiff, but when I got it moving it wound all the way back quite easily. The surprising thing was the first few presses of the pedal didn't move the piston at all. However a few more saw it moving freely.

I then moved on to adjusting the handbrake cable. I removed the panel at the rear of the armrest, then wound in the nut till the handbrake changed from 12 clicks to 6/7.
But here is my question; when i applied the handbrake, there was no apparent movement in the piston. I checked the foot brake again, the disc locked when pressed and freed up when released, so all good there. I fitted the wheel then checked everything but still very poor performance from the handbrake. So whats the issue? Something to do with the handbrake cable not operating the piston properly?
Any ideas welcome.

Thanks all.
 
get an ***istant to move the handbrake lever (in the car) up and down, while you look at what is happening on the cables and levers on the caliper
 
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