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honda accord 1.8 clutch biting point

JAPIMPORT

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2002 ACCORD SE
hey im back in a honda after being away for a while,ive bought a 1.8 02 accord,when i was checking the car out i noticed the clutch biting point was high,i pointed this out to the seller so he took 200 of the price in case it needs a new clutch,i havent a clue when it comes to testing clutches etc,so what i need to know is does it need a new clutch,the biting point is really high,i checked the clutch fluid and it was really low so i topped it up,when im moving off i have to give it some revs to get going,any ideas would be great
 
Hi Thomas

If you accelerate hard from a low speed you'll see the rev counter rise yet the speedo will not reflect this. I guess you could say if feels like being on mud or snow and trying to drive out of it. I think 2nd/3rd gear is usually best to test it.

I recall Pedro giving some advice here regarding pedal adjustment. maybe worth a try if no slip occurs under load.


http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/15729-clutch-biting-point-change/

skhell said:
When you replace the clutch master cylinder, you have to work around the clutch pedal adjustment.
So you might just need to re-adjust your clutch pedal to the proper specifications, undoing the lock nut, and turn the master cylinder connection rod to reach the desire pedal height and biting point.

Edit: Take a look at the following pdf: http://www.pdf-archive.com/2013/12/31/clutch-pedal-adjustment/
 
hi :) im back again ive had another look today and the car doesnt seem to be slipping,ive tried another test i put the car in 3rd gear and went to take off and it cut out which means that its ok according to the web,because the car was really low on clutch fluid, im thinking maybe air got in the system,so i may bleed it and put fresh fluid in,ive had a look at the pedal adjustment guide and i havent done anything yet with that, but i did have look to see if anything looked out of place,seen nothing unusual,and i had no measuring tape handy to measure the adjustment of the clutch pedal, ill have a look again at it tomorow and ill measure free play and disengagement height etc just to rule that out and ive also checked for leaks and seen none,ive already got a couple of prices to do the clutch for me just incase it needs doing,i was thinking of doing it myself,im pretty handy with the tools,but as ive never done it before,im not sure if i need any special tools etc,has anyone on here done there clutch before,maybe yous have some tips for me, im going to go browsing the net for some clutch replacement guides to see whats involved
 
If youve never done a clutch or helped with a clutch before id deffo give it a miss.. A clutch should only really be done on a ramp as alot easier to remove gearbox etc
 
thanks simon ive seen whats involved while browsing the net,and ill let the professionals do it,just going to make sure its the clutch im bringing it to a garage to get a proper diagnosis thanks again
 
Good man.. Just dont want you to start and end up giving up lol alot easier with the proper tools and equipment lol see tbh mines is high too and ive never had any problems with mine mate.. My old one was the same and had that 6 months with no issues.. If its pulling okay etc.. Done the clutch check with handbrake etc on then i dont really see it beong the clutch mate.. Might just be needing bleed and new fluid..
 
ill bleed the clutch over the weekend and see if that makes a difference,i was trying to remember did my old accord do that,and i couldnt remember
 
ok just an update :) , i have not brought it to garage yet as ive to tax it first,before i go on the road, so ive so ive being doing bits and pieces to the car changing fluids etc, ive cleaned the interior,have not done exterior yet,im going to get some sort of colour wax for it as there is some minor scratches,ive done the rear pads aswell ,the hand brake feels different do i need to adjust the cable on the handbrake, and ive bled the clutch just to see if it makes any difference to the clutch,well the clutch fluid was dirty that came out,while i was bleeding the clutch and i noticed a squeaking noise comming from under the bonnet when i press the clutch,ive found where it was coming from, and its the clutch slave cylinder its sqeaking and leaking,so i pulled back the little rubber boot and fluid came out,i now need a new cylinder, ive ordered that today from local motor factors,with this problem ive found would that have anything to do with the clutch bite being high, i wouldnt know myself about clutches,ive already priced around for the clutch job 350 its going to cost,they said they will put in a luk kit,is that any good kind of kit
 
Good thing you found the problem, but hydraulic problems usually result in the clutch biting point getting lower and lower (until the clutch doesn't clear). Generally the complete opposite of clutch wear.
 
thanks jon :) yes its a good thing i had found it,its not to bad of a price its only going to cost 30 euro its a blue print part,ive heard blue print are good parts,well its the clutch then,atleast ill know it has a new clutch in it,im going to keep this car for awhile anyway as i missed my old one :)
 
You need to pump the brake or pull the handbrake to set the pads, I've got the adjuster guide in the DIY if you need any help on the adjusting nut.

Or with the rear raised, there should be no drag on any of the wheels with the brake off and only slight drag on Click 1 of the lever.
 
when you fit the new slave take the rubber boot off of the clutch fork. If you put your fingers in you will feel 2 metal lines.1 at the top and 1 at the bottom (these are the fork springs) apply a tiny bit of grease to them then refit the boot.

Ive had alot of people complaining about squeaking clutches and most thought it was there slave cylinder squeaking as it they had faulty/leaking slaves.
Most of the time the slave cylinder doesnt squeak when it has a leak as it gets moist/lubricated with the leaking fluid. ;)
 
Funny enough i have a squeaky clutch fork aswell which will be sorted at the weekend when i have some free time lol
 
AndyB1976 said:
You need to pump the brake or pull the handbrake to set the pads, I've got the adjuster guide in the DIY if you need any help on the adjusting nut.

Or with the rear raised, there should be no drag on any of the wheels with the brake off and only slight drag on Click 1 of the lever.
thanks andy ill do that tommorow, :) and ill have a look at the guide aswell cheers, theres no drag on the wheels,i know from my last honda accord with the seizing calipers,the last one the pins where actually stuck in the caliper
 
TonyK7ng87 said:
when you fit the new slave take the rubber boot off of the clutch fork. If you put your fingers in you will feel 2 metal lines.1 at the top and 1 at the bottom (these are the fork springs) apply a tiny bit of grease to them then refit the boot.

Ive had alot of people complaining about squeaking clutches and most thought it was there slave cylinder squeaking as it they had faulty/leaking slaves.
Most of the time the slave cylinder doesnt squeak when it has a leak as it gets moist/lubricated with the leaking fluid. ;)
hi tony i was just about to post my progress and i seen your post just now, well today ive changed the clutch slave cylinder and its still squeaking,well at least its not leaking now with the new one installed,i was about to say i think it could be the clutch bearing,i pulled back the clutch fork boot earlier and i was thinking of puting a bit of grease on it,but i didnt know if it would be ok,so ill do that tomorow that sqeaking noise is so annoying
 
hi ive a little update,today ive taken tonys advice and done what he posted and the squeaking has stopped :) thank god its stopped it was really annoying,thanks tony
 
hi there just an update about my clutch biting point, i got the clutch done in the end, and its a lot better now, biting point is much lower and the car seems to drive a lot better,mechanic also said that he got an exedy clutch kit instead of the luk when he ordered the kit,so now i have an exedy clutch in it,but the difference is great :) thanks for your help
 
Glad you got it sorted!

I was gonna post to check the master and slave cylinders. Mine did the same as this but the biting point varied each drive. Got them both replaced and hey presto!
 
conyoman said:
Glad you got it sorted!

I was gonna post to check the master and slave cylinders. Mine did the same as this but the biting point varied each drive. Got them both replaced and hey presto!
Thanks it looks like my master cylinder is failing now,ive already replaced the slave
 
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