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Honda accord diesel estate 2005 2.2l ..heating problem

Costa

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Hi everybody...I'm a Honda fan for many years now...
Just bought a accord diesel estate 2.2l 2005 and I noticed a heating problem...
The heating at passenger's side works perfect while on driver's side is much less (but I do have the airflow coming).
I did the following:
  • Removed the heater water valve, checked, working, refitted (but I disengaged the control wire leaving the valve full open position for testing)
  • Checked pax side actuator... (mode actuator), tested, works perfect!!
  • Removed driver's side actuator, tested, works perfect, refitted. I even tested manually the plastic groove to the upper position, no change to the issue!!
The problem persists.... any ideas? Thanks
Costa
 

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Welcome to the Accord cooling fan club.

I've not found a solution, except to blank off the drivers side vents (central and feet) with a sock and parcel tape.

Every now and then the heating does come on, but I suspect after seventeen years of sludge in the system the box is silted up.

Another member was going to attempt flushing out the matrix before end of last year, not sure if there was any success.
 

Costa

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Welcome to the Accord cooling fan club.

I've not found a solution, except to blank off the drivers side vents (central and feet) with a sock and parcel tape.

Every now and then the heating does come on, but I suspect after seventeen years of sludge in the system the box is silted up.

Another member was going to attempt flushing out the matrix before end of last year, not sure if there was any success.
Thanks for your message..
There is no problem with the airflow whatsoever!! Is the same in both sides (otherwise I would replace the fan motor!!).
Of course if I blank off the side vents, I do have more flow on the centrals so I switch them off at the beginning till system gets hot!!
Matrix is working ok as pax side is very hot (Matrix has only one way in and out.. so if blocked would be no heating at all!!)

Now regardless of actuators and automation, the heating box works mechanically (no electrics or electronics) so to my opinion has to be a problem with a flap's shaft or a flap itself..
To your knowledge, is it any way to have access inside the heating box without dismantling the entire dash board? (possibly some central side doors?) Thanks
 

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Bunged up plumbing would not restrict airflow.
There is no requirement to blank off the driver's side vent since it has its own switch.
 

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Good, now since your matrix has one side working and mine is just barely warm on the passenger side I would say the gunge has more or less filled this one. Somebody else may confirm which way the water runs trough it but my guess is right to left.

On a warmer day I might have a go at disconnecting, filling with detergent overnight and then reverse flushing with hot water in the morning.
Currently its not particularly pleasant to work outside so I'm putting on a second coat when driving.

Btw I had a couple of corroded pipes fore and aft of the engine block and annoying leaks, plus I've had to remove the thermostat (leading to a headless bolt on one side) in the past four months so I'm not going to put more stress the cooling system for the time being.
 
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Costa

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Good, now since your matrix has one side working and mine is just barely warm on the passenger side I would say the gunge has more or less filled this one. Somebody else may confirm which way the water runs trough it but my guess is right to left.

On a warmer day I might have a go at disconnecting, filling with detergent overnight and then reverse flushing with hot water in the morning.
Currently its not particularly pleasant to work outside so I'm putting on a second coat when driving.

Btw I had a couple of corroded pipes fore and aft of the engine block and annoying leaks, plus I've had to remove the thermostat (leading to a headless bolt on one side) in the past four months so I'm not going to put more stress the cooling system for the time being.
So you suggesting the matrix is partially blocked... you may be right.. I check everything else and is ok!! I haven't thought of that at the beginning!!
I think your guess right to left is good... you can check also the water valve.. has an arrow.. at least Denso has!!
I'll do the same...Lets hope the pressure of the tap would be sufficient to unblock it? also good chance to flush the entire cooling system too!!

If it's only the head of the bolt missing then removing the cover you still may have half a cm of the screw available .. possibly you can remove it with BW40 and some torch heat!!

Thanks and I'll let you know the results!!
 

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Only half the remaining bolt is visible, and there is a lot in front and to the side of what remains to remove it. I can't take the car off the road currently to fix (the cooling system won't get past minimum temperature with the thermostat removed) so I'm running with the one remaining bolt in place and some wire ties around the engine (and spare coolant in bottles in the boot)

I would still filling the matrix with detergent and let stand before flushing, I believe whatever sludge is in there will take more than pressure to dislodge it. If all else fails then removal and use of an ultrasound tank might be the next option.
 

Costa

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Without thermostat you risking of breaking the engine.. don't drive fast!!
I believe that having put detergent, the tap pressure will be enough to remove the dirt!! :)
Good luck!! just be careful and be safe!!
I'll let you know results but I'll get on with this next week... now I'm very busy... and I don't have the courage.. I'm 63
 

Costa

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Here done... not a big deal really... just pipe with cold water... no detergent. Runs fantastic now.
How is going with yours?
 

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Excellent news, so you just disconnected the pipes to the engine and reverse flushed with tap water ?

Best I do same to give the new thermostat an easier life when I eventually fit it.

How much sludge came out ?
 

Costa

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Sludge Just a bit.. not a lot.. and yes directly from the pipes reverse flushed!! you haven't done anything yet with yours?
Now I have an other problem.. the motor of the drivers door in not working and I will replace it tmrw. Also I changed the master windows switches with a used unit same design but different codes on. Switches work ok apart from the drivers door but an other number of functions are all off!! I'll change the motor tmrw and i take it from there!!
 

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Thanks for the quick answer. Your post above will ***ist many others to trying same, I'll attempt the fix when I get enough courage to reinstall the thermostat, that sheared bolt is giving me nightmares.
 

Costa

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Wish you good luck...let me know!!
If I don't solve my issue I'll bring it here!!
 
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