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HOW TO: Slim HID installation guide

PointMan

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ATS CL9
Hi everybody! :)

I thought I'd do a quick how to guide for installing a slim HID kit on a 7th gen Accord. Mine is a Tourer Sport 2.0 from 2007 (LHD).

What you need:

- Slim hid kit of your choise. (I chose VVME 35W with 5000k bulbs).
- Good quality double sided sticky tape (I used 3M).
- Electrical tape.
- 10 mm socket wrench of some sort.
- Knife and/or scissors.
- Time (1 hour or so).
- Place (with something to sit on and something to work on, much easier that way).


Park your car and remove the keys. No need to remove the battery if you do not want to, there is no current to the head lights when the car is of.

I am doing the right side of the car in this guide.

First you need to remove the window washer funnel top (or whatever it's called in English) by removing the 10mm bolt holding it down. :)

1rZEuh.jpg


Once you have removed the bolt you can just pull the top part of the funnel up and away.

7E3DVh.jpg


The tube is flexible so you can bend it down and place it under something, this will give you enough space to work with.

xkLgoh.jpg


Remove the cover and disconnect the two cables from the bulb (red cable) and mounting bracket (black cable). Then press on the top of the securing spring and move it downwards so you can remove the bulb.

WHDVTh.jpg


Now it's time for some knife wielding :)

The hid kit comes with a rubber gasket that you need if you drill a hole in the cover and mount the ballast in the engine bay. We are not going to do that, so the gasket is just in the way.

O95byh.jpg


Sharp knife, Swedish style. Be careful so you don't cut into any of the four wires.

nQPDNh.jpg


Once done turning the gasket into small rubber parts, it should look like this:

K68NQh.jpg


Remove the bulbs plastic cover. Install the bulb (without touching the glas) in the socket with the membrane up (it will not fit in any other way!). Secure it using the spring, check so that it's not moving.

hOjDmh.jpg


Take your double sided tape and cut a piece so it will fit the bottom of the ballast.

4wIPnh.jpg


Lay the ballast in the housing and make sure that the side of the ballast is as far left (or right) as possible, so that it's touching the inside wall of the housing. Press down on it to secure it. Test to find the correct place for the ballast without tape first!

RYQxrh.jpg


Place double sided tape on one side of the igniter part (black box) of the ballast and place it next to the ballast. Same here, test without tape first.

fEcHGh.jpg


Connect the two cables coming from the bulb to the two connectors from the ballast.

Take the remaining cable and connect the big black side (9006 plug) to the ballast and the two spade connectors to the original bulb wires. Black is ground, the other cable can be red or blue or whatever. Connect black to the cars black cable and blue/red/whatever to the cars red wire. Make sure the spade is inserted all the way. Secure it with electrical tape so that they are firmly connected.

Tl4Flh.jpg


Place the wires to the side of the bulb, there are plenty of space on the sides.

naNGXh.jpg


Put the cover back on and turn on the low beams to check that it's working before refitting the washer funnel.

Do the same procedure on the left side, people with Accord diesel might need to remove the battery. I didn't have to on my 2.0l Accord Tourer.

Sorry for my crappy english and the dirty engine bay :)

Any questions?

Regards
P-H
 
Very good write up ;)

A lot of people have been talking about doing this recently.

Mods, maybe move this to the DIY section for people to find there ?
 
Bit off topic, but your VSA / ABS unit (second picture) is totally different to mine. Is that a facelift or a Swedish thing?

Nice write up BTW :)
 
For those of us looking to repeat this, can you give the measurements of your ballast? There are so many 'slim' version to be had. Thanks!
 
Thanks alot, this worked well for me. It is a very easy install, and costs less than bulbs from Halfords. I would just suggest keeping the temp at/under 5000k, anything more is too blue!

Just a FYI for others the size of the Ballast that fits in the housing is: 7cm × 6.2cm × 1.5cm.
 
Nice write up mate. How ddid you cconected negative? I cant even uplug it. And dont wanna break it by puling to hard as it's all very soft in there and bending when I'm trying to unplug. Hand hardly fits in there, any tips? Cheers
 
Nice write up mate. How ddid you cconected negative? I cant even uplug it. And dont wanna break it by puling to hard as it's all very soft in there and bending when I'm trying to unplug. Hand hardly fits in there, any tips? Cheers

The negative is very tight but it will come off with a good wiggle.This then just plugs into the negative cable on the hid lamp.
 
The negative is very tight but it will come off with a good wiggle.This then just plugs into the negative cable on the hid lamp.
Cheers brett. So I dont have to connect them both back to the headlight? Just unplug that wire and connect with hid bulb and thats it? Cheers again
 
Cheers brett. So I dont have to connect them both back to the headlight? Just unplug that wire and connect with hid bulb and thats it? Cheers again
Yes if you look at photo 5 there are 2 cables attached to the hid lamp.This is the 2 connecters your cable from the stock light needs to connect to.
 
Cheers mate. All installed and looks good. Hopefully everything insire will stay the way I put it there lol. Cheers
 
i have a small question for those who have done this...
how is the heat thing inside the headlight case? did you have any kind of problems?
did you checked after 1/2/3/4h of driving the car with the lights on? any melting or naughty things?
i want to put the same in the housing but i'm little afraid of the heat made by ballast!
and 4300 or 5000k? which one?
i hardly wait your reply!
 
Last summer I had 24 hour trip in the car and lights was on for whole night and nothing happened, same on the way back, on for all night and no problems. I haven't opened it check inside, but it looks like it's all good. So don't worry and get them lights upgraded (go for 5k) I was choosing from 6k and 5k, I the end went for 5k and they look good. Would consider 6k now tho, for that little bit more blue ;)
 
back after took a good look inside my headlight unit and i saw inside on one wall it's a white paper like the bubble envelops from post office...
do somebody else got this inside the unit? what is that?
 
I am about to do this modification to my car (35W), but im worried about heat in my headlight unit. Has anyone had any major overheating problems in the long run? Has anyone opened the headlight unit to see is there any heat problems?

Im thinking to buy one of these sets...... What do you think?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Xenon-HID-Conversion-KIT-H1-H3-H7-H9-H11-HB3-HB4-9006-/330379335700?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4cec249814
http://www.vvme.com/search-result?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_options=1&search_options=1&in_cat=141&option_7=92&option_1=-1&option_30=-1&option_31=-1&inc_subcat=0&search_in_description=0&sort=20a&option_7=92&option_1=1&option_30=-1&option_31=-1
 
Ive got a 35w 10,000k kitt ive bought a while back but have yet to install, but I think 10,000k might be verging on the purple lol
 
Same question with the heat here. Just done same install on my 07 tourer, drove for bout 30 min, then opened them up and checked if anything is melting or getting too hot. The ballast seems fine, but the projector housing is very hot, almost impossible to touch for more than couple of seconds. Wondering if that extra heat would cause any damage to the ballasts or melt the wires near it? Although wiring has silicone insulation and should be able to withstand a lot of heat, I don't really want a 20000 volt short in my headlights, or any of those volts discharging in to cars electrical systems.
So had anyone had any experience (good or bad) with this setup, long term?
Thanks
 
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