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Just bought a 99 6th gen Accord.

A

Alans27

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Wirral
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Honda Accord 2.0 se
And there's loads to talk about tbh but I'll pick out a few things here for now.

For a kick off, I got this last Monday and noticed yesterday that there was a leak near one of the rear wheels. Took it into my local and they discovered one of the brake pipes was corroded to hell, leaking and in danger of bursting all together. Been told not to use it until Monday when I take it in to be fixed. Now there was signs of brake fluid spillage around the bottle which suggest to me the previous owner had been topping the fluid up and most likely knew this car had a dangerous fault. Very naughty that is, I could have had a serious accident on my way home with it. The other brake pipe is not great either so I'm getting both done.

Anyway two questions, firstly the cars not exactly snail pace slow but for a 2.0 it's still a bit disappointing really. I'd of thought it would have more go than this. What do other 2.0 owners think of theirs?

Secondly it's got this curious thing where in the car I can hear very clearly what I can best describe as an engine pulley wobble noise. Yet under the bonnet the engine sounds ok. There is a slight noise there but not as bad as when you're sat inside it. It's as though the engine makes its noise and it's somehow amplified through the bulkhead or the heater ducts maybe, making it much more audible inside the car.
I know it's engine noise as it does this when stationery as well as moving. Plus it's not a grinding or screeching sound so I don't think it's the gearbox. Has anyone else had a similar problem with theirs?

Finally what's the cambelt intervals on these cars? I can't find evidence of it being changed but at 87,000 if it was due at say 60, you would have thought it would have snapped by now if it's not been done.


Thank you,

Alan.
 
Hi Alan,

Welcome to the world of 6th gen ownership.
Shame about the brake lines, it's one thing that can be easily overlooked and not uncommon for sellers to try and cover up. All too often I drive cars where the brakes are positively dangerous. Some people just really don't care. Hopefully you'll get these done and things will be good.

As for the performance, if it's an auto, the 4-speed boxes are a bit heavy and weren't exactly the fastest things around at the time. But they are a great cruiser and don't change much as you load them up with people. You'll find that the performance really kicks in once you get the revs above 3,000-3,500 and the v-tech comes in just after 4,000. In normal driving the auto's will change long before this happens for economy and smoothness. Stick it in tiptronic and you can go hell for leather in these things if you keep the revs up. Just be sure the engine's well maintained if you're going to push it though. My dad regularly drives his as if his hair's on fire (59 going on 18 hah) and he's had it for 9 years without any major issues.

For manual's you shouldn't really have any problems in terms of performance, they're pretty much right for the power and weight compared to other cars of the time. Just don't be too harsh on the clutch and they'll keep on going for a good long time.

Mine's at 90k and just having the belts done today as they're 7 years old and last done at 67k. It has not missed a beat since I got it in October. If you look after these engines then they're pretty bomb-proof. I've driven these cars with over 250k on them and the engines are just fine. If you're really not sure when these were last done my advice would be to have them checked and done just for peace of mind. Blueprint do a complete timing kit that includes the balance belt for a reasonable price. There are two ancillary belts as well.

Here's the maintenance schedule from the ESM:
https://app.box.com/s/lxdrdwxw6eojep0bubvhvh304atlt8pd
Sorry, it seems to have come out a bit odd in the PDF. Probably to do with running it under XP in a virtual machine as it no longer works on Win10. But all the info is in there :)

Also, check the negative battery lead, specifically the part that goes down to a bracket on the bottom of the engine block. You'll probably find that it's a bit mucky and possibly starting to fray. See my post here for a cheap and easy fix if you need to:
http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/21938-battery-light-issue/?p=231006

Hopefully, someone else will have an idea to the noise issue for you.

Any other bits you need help with, you've come to the right place. The guys here really know these cars inside and out.
 
Thank you very much for the detailed reply it's very helpful. The car is a manual and tbh I've not really been revving it too highly because of the uncertainty around the cambelt. Mind you I think it might be lacking a few service requirements. For instance I replaced the air filter midweek as the old one was black. The plugs seem OK and she starts instantly so think they're OK. The oil looks clean too. But the fuel filter will probably need replacing when I can find where Honda have hidden it???? Does anyone know where the fuel filter lurks?
 
The fuel filter is hidden under a panel in front of the rear wheel on the passenger side. There's a how to around here somewhere if you fancy tackling it yourself. According to the ESM Honda deem this an unessential item to service until the fuel pressure really drops. But after 17 years it's a good idea to do it.

Even if the plugs look fine, if they've not been done for a while it wouldn't hurt to do them, the leads, rotor arm and dizzy cap. A few minutes work and can make a whole lot of difference. And for these (as with most Japanese engines) good quality plugs make all the difference.

Agree on not pushing it if you're unsure about the belts. Once you're happy with their condition be safe in the knowledge that you can redline these cars to no ill effects (other than the rev limiter telling you off). Performance is never going to be startling off the line but once the v-tech engages not much holds them back. The auto's will happily go from 50 to 80 quickly and without much fuss so a manual (in 4th) should pull like a rocket in that area. They'd even reach 100 without any bother.

I've driven every model through work and they're all fairly relaxed drivers until you start to push the revs up. The Type-R's are a different story as you'd expect. Made to compare with the 3 Series and C-Class of the time these are sportier to an extent and with the better trim levels a nicer car to be in (I have driven many examples of each).
 
Ahhh so that's where they keep the fuel filter lol. Well they certainly hid that well didn't they eh? You know I think I'll try a set of plugs in it. I'll take your wisdom on board there, it certainly makes good sense.

Oh believe me I know how these cars like to be abused a bit. This car reminds me so much of a car I had years ago. A 1995 Rover 216! Last of the old shape with the Honda engine. Up to 4000 rpm it was nippy. After 4000 rpm it would become a monster and take off!! What a rapid car that was!! But yes the Accord with its wood trim and sunroof and a few things take me back to my days of the Rover.
 
The first thing that happens with any car I buy is the plugs, leads and air filter get swapped right away for good quality ones or OEM. Since getting my Accord it's had that and mid way through getting the belts, water pump, fuel filter and some other minor bits done. Also a nice set of tyres (don't put budgets on these if you can help it) and the thing sticks to the road like glue.

That was always the best way to buy a Rover from that era. Without a K-series. Much in the same way that the most reliable Triumph was the Acclaim (a Honda Ballade in a beige dress).

I always find it funny if I have the cruise control set and hit a steep hill on the motorway. Torque converter unlocks, shifts to 3rd (or 2nd on occasion), engages angry mode and just shoots up the thing like a greased weasel. Normally have to override it at that point to avoid the car in front :-D

The ultimate in Honda's ability for these things is the S2000. They are just insane. You push one of those to the redline and chances are you will need new underwear and maybe an ambulance. Would love to throw one around a fast track one day.

The fuel filter is nothing (although I wonder if my mechanic knows where it is hmm) compared to the pollen filter. You won't believe how many screws hold the glove box in. That thing would survive nuclear blasts.
 
I don't think I'll change the leads, unless I need too but I'll definitely do the plugs and think I'll get the oil changed too seen as I don't know what's in it. I think I'm going to have to get the cambelt done as it's far too risky not too.

Ah yes the Triumph Acclaim!! Actually the successor to that, the Rover 213 was a nice car in its day. The Honda twelve valve engine was sweet as a nut and it was nippy too.

I've got a friend who had an S2000. A few weeks after getting it he lost control on a roundabout and went through the wall of a pub. On the positive side he automatically became first in the que for a pint ha ha.
Funny enough I've had the pollen filter out today. God they sure hid that one away! Thanks for that Honda lol
 
Alans27 said:
I've got a friend who had an S2000. A few weeks after getting it he lost control on a roundabout and went through the wall of a pub. On the positive side he automatically became first in the que for a pint ha ha.
Click to expand...
I bet that was an interesting one to explain hah.
 
Yeah very much so. He said the thing with an s2000 is they're great in the dry but his one didn't have traction control and so was a nightmare in the wet. I've never been in his car (especially not after that ha) but that's what he told me anyway. I'd ***ume later ones would have traction control but I don't know really.

Anyway getting back to accords, is there an easy way of getting to see the cambelt as in just taking a cover off or does it require lots of work just to inspect the thing?
 
I think you can remove the top portion of the cover easily enough. Just need to remove the rocker cover first and away you go.
The balance belt is hidden a bit deeper but if you're going to do the cambelt a decent timing kit should supply both.
 
Mine was sluggish when I first got it, I changed a few things and it wasn't until I changed the leads, rotor arm and dizzy cap did it make a difference. It ran very smooth, no misfiring, was just down on power.

It's still sluggish from a stand still but pulls just like my old 2.2 Astra Coupe did once moving. No torque though, have to drop it down a couple of cogs to get up hills.
 
It has got a slight rocker gasket leak actually. I wonder if that's a sign it has been previously disturbed in order to do a cambelt? I must have a chat with the garage next week.
Yes it is a bit gutless low down, especially for such a large and seemingly thirsty engine. Beautifully smooth though, especially for 87,000miles!
 
I have a 2.0 manual and it is very nippy, can beat most average cars from the lights, 1st gear is very short and revvey, it screams to 30, as said you have to rev them to get max power and torque, VTEC kicks in at 4.5k and thats when it gets interesting, you don't have the shove of a DOHC VTEC unit but it still starts shifting and makes all the right noises, they are very fun and enjoyable to drive when your up for it.

Regarding the noise its hard to diagnose anything on the web, it could also just be injector noises or if its tappety it will need Valve clearances which should be done at 82k. Timing belt schedule is every 72,000 miles or 6 years.
 
Definitely not tappets or injectors matey, it's not a ticking sound. More of a weird wobbly sound like a pulley although the pulleys all look solid. Think I'd best get the cambelt done really, I'll do that after the brake pipes.
This is going to be an expensive week lol
Nice colour accord by the way. Mines the same colour only mine's a bit tatty so yours will be a lot nicer.
 
Got mine back today from having all the belts done, water pump, new Honda coolant and got them to chuck on the dizzy cap and rotor while it was there. Had new leads and some top notch Denso plugs after I bought it. Absolutely lovely now. Perfectly silent and when given a poke it takes off like a gooden.

Took them a day and a half to work out how to get the crank pulley off - they don't have the tool for Honda cranks so had to borrow a bigger impact gun. May take their time with things but it's opposite my house and they let me supply my own parts which is nice as I'm rather fussy about what goes on my cars these days.
Oh for a workshop of my own and lots of shiny tools.

If you're planning on keeping the car for a while then get what you can done and it'll be well worth it :)
 
You're so leading me into temptation MedicalFlyer! I'm trying to keep costs down and you're tempting me to spend money lol. But yes I'll treat mine to a set of plugs and cambelt kit. It's only a run around but I'll keep it for a good twelve months so may as well get it right. The body work is tatty on mine so it's not worth spending too much.
Mind you when the water pump is done it definitely won't get Honda Coolant lol. It'll have bluecol or Holts (in red) and be done with it.
 
It's a bad habit of mine hah.
I do 200 miles a week just going to work so I try to keep ahead of anything. Luckily for these parts are fairly reasonable prices and easy to get hold of. I spent about £140 for parts and all were Blueprint which I'd recommend for any Japanese car. Surprisingly the Honda coolant was £20 from my local dealer for 5 litres so not too bad.

I was quite lucky and managed to get the timing kit for under £50.
 
Blueprint I'd very good stuff mate. I've been in the motor trade for 25 years now and I've always like blueprint. Good quality stuff. You can also get a well known brand called intermotor for your ignition bits but my advice is don't! They're crap lol.

That's very cheap for Honda coolant, I take it it's green right? Looks green in my accord at the moment.

How much did the water pump set you back?
 
The Honda stuff is blue and ready mixed. No idea what was in mine before but the old water pump was spotlessly clean. I actually thought they hadn't put the new one on at first. Thankfully the last owner took great care of the mechanicals of the car even when they stopped using it so much.

New pump was £20.
 
Got the brake pipes done today! £140 it cost me to got new brake pipes front to rear, both sides. Worth it though to have brakes that actually work lol.

Got it booked in for next week as well to get the cambelt and water pump done along with an oil change. I've ordered my parts too, looks like a timing belt kit and water pump in blue print will set me back about a hundred including vat which I don't think is that bad. Also ordered valvoline semi synthetic oil. an oil filter and a pollen filter.

Oh and I changed the spark plugs myself today as well. The v in the v groove on the old plugs was actually a bit worn and one of the plugs had a gap of 1.2mm.

Costing me an arm and a leg this car lol. But I'm getting there. :)
 
Might as well pick up the two ancillary belts as well. They have to come off for the timing kit to go on anyway. Then it'll be good for a few years.

Well worth checking out the pollen filter guide on the forum if you've not done so already. It's easy enough, just a case of burrowing your way in to it. You don't need to disconnect any of the loom (or the battery) if you unhook it and carefully move it out the way. Mine was missing the element holder from a previous change but luckily the Blueprint one come with a new one which was handy.
 
I know you're right and I really should change the ancillary belts as well but I'm not gonna bother on this occasion simply because cash is beginning to get rather tight lol. Plus they're not squealing at the moment anyway and should be fairly straight forward to change should I need to change them in future.
Oh god yeah I've already had it apart checking out the old filter which was black as anything! What a pain that is to get to!! They've well and truly buried that haven't they??
I'm hoping changing that filter will cure the noise I've been on about. If I stand outside the car with the engine running it sounds sweet as a nut. Yet if I get in I can loudly hear what sounds like a bearing or pulley wobble and it's definitely down to the engine, not the heater blower or anything like that. It's so weird!! Anyway I'm thinking maybe the engine makes its normal sound and somehow that sound is travelling through the heater vents and getting amplified along the way and because the pollen filter is rather old it's getting past that and the noise is then entering the cabin. That's my mad theory anyway ha ha
 
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