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Knock at the rear under braking

Stevearcade

Stevearcade

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2003 Accord CM2
Hi guys,

Noticed a nock at the rear under braking. I don't think it's roll bar related as I've not too long ago had the bushes and links done and it's a different sound to the links and bushes being worn. I'm thinking exhaust, heat shield or brake callipers. Is there a simple way to ***ess this without going to a garage?

Thanks in advance.
 
Stevearcade said:
Hi guys,

Noticed a nock at the rear under braking. I don't think it's roll bar related as I've not too long ago had the bushes and links done and it's a different sound to the links and bushes being worn. I'm thinking exhaust, heat shield or brake callipers. Is there a simple way to ***ess this without going to a garage?

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Steve this might be the calipers sticking.When you get in the car from cold in the morning do it do this when you pull off.
The best way mate is to take the pads out inspect for uneven wear and give it all a dam good clean with a small wire brush.
Also check everything is all toque up proper including the wheel nuts.

Just had a thought mate it might be something knocking due to the lowered suspension.
 
Cheers Brett. It has just started happening since I parked it in gear on steep slope, with the hand brake on extra hard, so it's probably just this. Don't really have the inclination to do this job myself as I don't have a driveway. Might give it some handbrake action while driving, see if I can clean them the heath robinson way ;) .
 
I sometimes get a sticky handbrake if i don't use the car for a few days.But once i drive off it sorts itself out.

Just had a thought mate it might be something knocking due to the lowered suspension.
 
Just a thought Steve your is a tourer and they have separate inner disk brakes for the handbrake i think.
 
Steve I think it might be a good idea to strip the rear brakes down and just rebuild and clean/grease them etc. Brett is right, your hand brake is seperate to the caliper being a tourer.
Also just have a good look around etc and make sure all the bolts are tight etc.
 
Ok, just got back from a bit of a trip out. It seems to have stopped for now. But it would knock backwards on acceleration and knock forward on braking. I don't think it's actually related to the brakes. I think it's not as far back as that. Like more central, like under the rear footwell. I'm inclined to think it's exhaust related. I'll obviously keep an eye on things and let you guys know if there's any more development.

Hopefully it's nothing to do with the lowering (unless I've damaged the exhaust from scraping it :lol: ).
 
Handbrake on the tourer is a rubbish micky mouse drum brake. I often get a clunk from the back when its been parked up on a hill, its been like that for ages ....err since the Romans left the country I think. I've done the rear pads on the car myself several times now, and taken the disc/drum off to look at the shoes twice (that's not easy job I can tell you).

But that latest post doesn't sound like the brake shoes Steve.
 
Drum brakes aren't that bad. When adjusted correctly they can be better than equal diameter disc brakes due to the greater frictional contact area (however most are smaller though). The problem is that if there is no automatic self-adjustment they then become poor.

And for a parking brake you don't need disc brakes and so a completely seperate non-hydraulic drum brake for parking/emergency, such as on our tourers, is much safer. To prevent any wear, only apply the parking brake when stationary.

Back to the problem, maybe a look at the suspension rubber bushings too.
 
Yep, I would rather have a drum for the handbrake... discs tend to cool down and shrink, thereby 'letting-go'.
 
I had a similar "event" was thinking all sorts of diabolical things gone wrong, I took the wheel off and found a granite pebble sitting in the caliper, it was hard as iron (none chip) and just the right size to remain in place no matter what the vehicle was doing, poked it out with a screw driver problem solved.
 
Reiver said:
Drum brakes aren't that bad. When adjusted correctly they can be better than equal diameter disc brakes due to the greater frictional contact area (however most are smaller though). The problem is that if there is no automatic self-adjustment they then become poor.

And for a parking brake you don't need disc brakes and so a completely seperate non-hydraulic drum brake for parking/emergency, such as on our tourers, is much safer. To prevent any wear, only apply the parking brake when stationary.

Back to the problem, maybe a look at the suspension rubber bushings too.
Click to expand...

Just to clarify the parking brake, whether drum or disc, is mechanical - no hydraulics involved. Required to be this way by the Construction and Use Regulations - a piece of obscure knowledge from years ago when involved with builidng rally cars.
 
It's a parking brake, not an emergency brake. For cars fitted with diagonal braking systems, the handbrake does not have to qualify as an emergency brake.

Try stopping the car with the handbrake on the Tourer, it's as much use as a chocolate teapot. That's why it's mickey mouse junk, no good for emergencies, no good for handbrake turns.

However, the saloon uses the disc brake, so I presume the handbrake on the saloon is better (good for handbrake turns ?).

Also the rear suspension on the saloon is multi-link whereas on the Tourer it's traling arm.

So why is the handbrake and suspension on the saloon "better" (IMO) than on the Tourer ??
 
This is all very interesting guys, but back on topic, I'm only periodically hearing a knock, so I'm just ignoring it for now :lol: .
 
Rather than clutter up this thread with an esoteric discussion I'll respond to Brian by p.m.
 
Steve your best bet mate is get the car on the ramp as soon as poss to see under the car.
If your going to the meet at Ace cafe i will have a look mate.
 
Cool, I've managed to get the day free, so should be there ;) .
 
Good man Steve I hope to meet you at last mate.
 
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