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Knocking from Rear of Tourer

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My Tourer has had a knocking from the rear when it goes over bumps for literally years. I have looked at everything trying to find it. Stripped the suspension down, struts and springs off, all trim out of boot and been through at least two MOT’s with no problems so confident it’s not a major issue.

Somebody posted recently about the crash protection bar at the rear rotting and becoming loose so thought its a nice day so lets take the rear bumper off and have a look. Did this and found I no longer have a protection bar as its replaced by the tow bar but still found nothing loose!

Managed to clear out all the mud from behind the bumper and tidy up some wiring so not a complete loss but still no closer to finding the noise!

Any suggestions welcomed !
 
Something loose under the spare wheel ?

Maybe something within the tyre itself ?
I've had a mechanic lose a spanner in a tyre before (on a motorcycle as well)
 
Thanks but no I've taken everything out of the boot and the noise is still there. Even taken the struts off and run down the road without them for a very short period in case they were the problem but still there.
 
Check exhaust is hung correctly...its long and doesn't have a lot of clearance on the tourer.I fitted a full system on mine last summer and the centre section wasn't exactly where it should be once id finished.Because of this it was banging against the heatshield...a slight adjustment sorted it.
Defo something you can easily check just by reaching under and shaking it around.
 
I noticed the rear heat shield knocking on mine, attached to the fuel tank. I couldn't get the fastener undone to re-attach so used some wire for now.
 
Had it on stands today and checked everything but nothing loose. Found loads of stones stuck on top of the heat shield and as well as in the sill covers. Cleaned it all out so made today worthwhile but no idea if I’ve affected the noise.
 
Whilst you've emptied the boot, have you cleared the individual compartments on the sides, or removed the panel on the rear door and light clusters to look for any loose items ?

Unlikely, but if you have a replacement exhaust it could be a loose baffle in there.
 
Yes cleared everything

You know you can never clear 'everything', I found a spare headlamp back cover rattling around in the front bumper a few years back, so I've now got three of them.

A few other suggestions, though the further forward you go the less chance of something causing a knock over a bump.

something lodged in the rear bumper.
A loose lump of filler behind a preivous bodywork repair
Something inside the roof canopy, near the tail motor.
The radio antenna amplifier below the fixed window.
A fuel pipe, or the metering system inside the tank
Something dislodged in the rear door panels
Something rattling around in the sills.

Why not invite the wife out for a spin in the boot and let her decide what happens when you run over a sleeping policeman, or five ?
 
Did You find out where the sound came? I had similar problem. And it was anti roll sway bar rubbers. Cheap fix. Worth checking. gl
 
The tester will only object if there's serious deterioration in the bushes or something could become detached, not just if there's a little bit of movement.
 
I had the problem on my 2004 Tourer when I purchased it 3 years ago. It was a really cheap and easy fix. I had to remove and replace the drop links and rubbers on the anti sway bar. The rubbers are literally a couple of bolts to undo, grease everything up and reassemble. I think it’s a 12 or 14mm bolt holding the mounts for the rubbers (located towards the center of the underbody). I also had to replace drop links (hold sway bar to the rest of the suspension. I suppose this was responsible for the clunk I was hearing whenever I would go over a bump. You have to use a lift to get both wheels off the ground and relieve tension on the anti sway bar. There is a hex and a bolt to undo. The hex will very likely be rusted. In this case tear away the rubber casing and get a thin vice grip onto it in order to turn the nut on the end without having to rely on the hex to keep things from spinning while you undo the nut. This took quite a bit of force and an impact wrench would be ideal if rusty. I bought aftermarket drop links and bought pricey ones as I did the work myself. I think Meyle HD are good but I sent mine back as they sent me saloon drop links. I would up with lemforders I believe. Be sure that the two ends of the droplinks are opposed 180 degrees. If they are at a 45 degree angle they are for the saloon. Websites often sell the saloon part as a Tourer part. Ask me how I know...
 
I had the problem on my 2004 Tourer when I purchased it 3 years ago. It was a really cheap and easy fix. I had to remove and replace the drop links and rubbers on the anti sway bar. The rubbers are literally a couple of bolts to undo, grease everything up and reassemble. I think it’s a 12 or 14mm bolt holding the mounts for the rubbers (located towards the center of the underbody). I also had to replace drop links (hold sway bar to the rest of the suspension. I suppose this was responsible for the clunk I was hearing whenever I would go over a bump. You have to use a lift to get both wheels off the ground and relieve tension on the anti sway bar. There is a hex and a bolt to undo. The hex will very likely be rusted. In this case tear away the rubber casing and get a thin vice grip onto it in order to turn the nut on the end without having to rely on the hex to keep things from spinning while you undo the nut. This took quite a bit of force and an impact wrench would be ideal if rusty. I bought aftermarket drop links and bought pricey ones as I did the work myself. I think Meyle HD are good but I sent mine back as they sent me saloon drop links. I would up with lemforders I believe. Be sure that the two ends of the droplinks are opposed 180 degrees. If they are at a 45 degree angle they are for the saloon. Websites often sell the saloon part as a Tourer part. Ask me how I know...


Already done both rear drop links but not the rubbers
 
Like I said the rubbers will do the job. And i didnt lift the wheels up. Just used them little ramps and job was super easy to fix. Good luck
 
There is a hex and a bolt to undo. The hex will very likely be rusted. In this case tear away the rubber casing and get a thin vice grip onto it in order to turn the nut on the end without having to rely on the hex to keep things from spinning while you undo the nut. This took quite a bit of force and an impact wrench would be ideal if rusty.


Another way is a 30 second blast of heat on the nut from a Rothenberger plumber's torch, then it'll come straight off nice and easy.
 
Well would have done if the ones I had been given were the right size !! They were far too small.

Judging by how difficult the bolts were to get out wthout snapping then I presume they have never been off in 16 years !
Well i bought mine in ECP. But for the bolts you need a lot of wd40 and try not to use impact gun. Just hand tools. That helped me. ;)
 
Well I've replaced the rear anti roll bar bushes and the knocking seems to be gone. Of course I'm now paranoid and hearing every other noise but I'm fairly sure it's gone!

Frustrating when a relatively simple 30 minute job solves something you have been chasing for two years !!!!!!
 
Well I've replaced the rear anti roll bar bushes and the knocking seems to be gone. Of course I'm now paranoid and hearing every other noise but I'm fairly sure it's gone!

Frustrating when a relatively simple 30 minute job solves something you have been chasing for two years !!!!!!
That knocking sound is annoying. Sounds like all rear suspension is gone. I am glad you finally sort it.
 
Well I've replaced the rear anti roll bar bushes and the knocking seems to be gone. Of course I'm now paranoid and hearing every other noise but I'm fairly sure it's gone!

Frustrating when a relatively simple 30 minute job solves something you have been chasing for two years !!!!!!
Hi Mate, was it a rattling type of noise?
 
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