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Knocking front shock absorber

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Rickmansworth
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2.4 Tourer Auto
I've had a really loud knocking over bumps in the last few weeks so while the car was in the garage I got them to investigate it. Turns out one of the upper wishbone ball joints was knackered so they replaced it but there is still a slight knocking from somewhere else. They can't find it any where so think it's the internals of the shock absorber. The drop links I did 2 years a go and the ARB bushes are fine.

I'll be keeping an eye on it and will replace both sides next year. I have replaced shocks and springs before so shouldn't have a problem doing it but I can't find a guide on here for the front only the rear, is there one?

I'm not interested in lowering the car and as mine has HIDs I need shocks with the bracket on for the sensor. Honda ones don't seem that badly priced at £128 looking on Lings. Are there any other alternatives though?

How long do the springs tend to last for on these cars as well, should I consider replacing those?
 
I find Toyota and Honda springs are usually pretty solid. Shocks I wonder if KYB are the OE suppliers.........like they used to be for Japs?
 
Stock shocks on the Gen7 are Showa, much better than KYB IMO.
 
I've not had a look around yet for the shocks and if I get Honda ones I'd order from Holdcroft so should be a little cheaper. Who sells Showa ones, I've never heard of them?

The trouble with buying genuine parts is if I need to replace the springs it is cheaper to lower the car.
 
Personally for me (due to back issues) ride quality is more important over lowering for aesthetics or speed around corners. I think lowering is a personal choice but could have impact on the re-sale value of the car, some people may be put off buying a lowered car. I wouldn't do it just because it's cheaper. Depends what you want from the car.
 
Showa are a subsidiary of Honda, they make a lot of suspension components for Motorcycles.
They aren't sold aftermarket for cars, just factory fit I think.

https://www.showa1.com/en/
 
ScoobyDoo said:
Personally for me (due to back issues) ride quality is more important over lowering for aesthetics or speed around corners. I think lowering is a personal choice but could have impact on the re-sale value of the car, some people may be put off buying a lowered car. I wouldn't do it just because it's cheaper. Depends what you want from the car.
This is the family car so I don't want the ride any harder than it currently is, I'll more than likely stick with stock suspension. I'm not bothered about re-sale value, it's a 13 year old car and isn't worth much now anyway.

I've got an MX5 on coilovers for when I want to go fast around corners! :D

Bounder said:
Showa are a subsidiary of Honda, they make a lot of suspension components for Motorcycles.
They aren't sold aftermarket for cars, just factory fit I think.

https://www.showa1.com/en/
Thanks, so it sounds like I'd have to buy from Honda if I wanted them.

Someone has mentioned to look at the top mounts as well, so I'll probably take the suspension off next year and look at those before replacing anything.
 
Worth checking the lower ball joints, these can and do fail but usually give warning first by knocking.
I don't think it will be the shocks, I could be wrong but they are fairly decent units.
If you have to go spurious Bilstein B4 are a direct replacement for the stock units and I have used these before on Avensis with good results.
 
I need to order these this week and get them changed but I'm having trouble finding any pattern ones that have the bracket for the HID lights, do they exist?

I'm getting a price from Holdcroft tomorrow so I'm hoping they can do a good deal on them.
 
Honda shocks are £102 delivered so seems a no brainer to get those. Pattern ones are around £65.
 
Just to add to your theory... I had almost the exact same knock, checked all the obvious suspects but all solid, you can feel it through the car as you go over bumps at low speed. Mine was the shock as you suspected (front driver side) changed both fronts and its finally gone (although mine was at around 210k on the clock).

Took a while to find but in the end figured it out by bumping the car up and down from the front using hands and body weight, driver side could hear some 'cruncheyness' through the travel but nothing on the other side.

Edit* As i recall, if you get someone else to bump up and down you can identify it from the sound inside or feeling the top of the strut from under the bonnet.
 
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