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Lower ball joint nut tightening sequence

Coupe Don

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Croydon
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Accord 2006 2.0 auto
Hi all,

I have a 2.0 CL7 and as I approach the 100k miles mark I'm starting look into replacing some of the suspension parts. This has lead me down the lower ball joint rabbit hole as any work around this area whether it be replacing the joint itself or the lower control arm will mean having to tighten the lower ball joint nut. I understand the reason for the other bolts on the control arms needing to be tightened with the arms at ride height so the bushings aren't damaged but some people seem to tighten the lower ball joint nut without the the suspension loaded or at ride height whilst others use a jack under the lower control arm to load the suspension and then tighten the lower ball joint nut fully to spec along with the other bushing bolts. Can anybody confirm the correct procedure for this?

It's a similar thing for replacing the upper ball joint with some forcing it down into the knuckle and then tightening the upper ball joint nut fully to spec and others choosing to raise the knuckle / suspension first. Can anybody help with what Honda themselves do?
 
the ball joints move in 3 dimensions as the suspension travels so there is really no reason to tighten them when the suspension is loaded. jacking the suspension up to tighten the castle nuts is primarily to lock the taper into the knuckle and keep it from spinning

the manual only has removal instructions for ball joints, and ball joint rubber boots. no installation instructions
 
the ball joints move in 3 dimensions as the suspension travels so there is really no reason to tighten them when the suspension is loaded. jacking the suspension up to tighten the castle nuts is primarily to lock the taper into the knuckle and keep it from spinning

the manual only has removal instructions for ball joints, and ball joint rubber boots. no installation instructions
Thank you I really appreciate the explanation.
 
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