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Lower control arms.

rob88

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Hi everyone, just looking for a little advice as I'm a noob but I like to try as much diy as I can.
Managed to change both lower control arms the other day, following an online video, question is all bolts etc were tightened with the vehicle off the ground then lowered, is this ok or did it need to be on the ground first. All the videos I have watched seemed to tighten while vehicle is off the ground.
Car drives fine, seems everything ok and no knocks etc.
One other thing, I changed the ball joint rubber covers while the arms were off and re-greased them, seems a good option as the rubbers were split but joints ok.
Many thanks
Rob
 

JVM33

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Hello,

I've been meaning to do this for a while now. I'm afraid I can't help you with your question about tightening bolts but was just curious to know what brand you went with for the lower control arms. I was told that it is worth doing both uppers and lowers as an alignment needs to be done afterwards. The OEM prices are quite steep and I was looking at Lemforder but also quite pricey. Any idea of how some of the less expensive brands hold up (Meyle, Delphi, etc.)? I suppose it is worth doing ball joints while everything is apart too which makes quite costly even as a DIY. This does seem to be a weak point on these cars along with sticky calipers on the brakes which I also need to have a look at.
 

rob88

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Hi JVM,
My lower control arms cost me £85 for both, I must say they looked really good solid quality, the rubbers looked very good, I was very happy with them actually. Fitted perfect and car drives great.
Having done a further little research, in an ideal world maybe torque them underload, only because the rubbers might be pinched, if I'm honest most videos I have seen tighten not under load. I really don't think this is a big problem on these old accords. I may change the upper ones but don't think they need to be changed together, again in an ideal world id change both. I will get an alignment done when I get some new tyres on the front.
I love my accord but it is scrap value and I'm trying to run it for as long as I can. My ball joints seemed fairly ok so I left them and just put new rubbers on.
My mot picked up last time the lower control arm rubbers split so hence the change.
The arms were - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153847277396
Caliper changer is straight forward as well, I've done mine on rear and calipers are fairly cheap too.
Regards
 

Kaput!

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Hi.I fitted one of these cheaper ebay lower arms last year and did the other last week.After 1 year with the OS fitted its aged well so decided use same again for NS.I suspect the steel between the arm and rubber bushing will rot out after 3/5 years,especially the forward mount which is where these things fail.That said at £80 both sides and straight forward DIY job i can live with that.
I wouldn't worry too much about these being bolted up off the ground....when lowered we are only talking a few degrees of movement until load settles.This is an issue with the upper arm though but you can use a pin and insert into a fitting hole on inner wing to locate arm correctly.
On the NS lower arm i fitted last week i noticed my steering wheel didn't centre as it should.I knew this would happen as i had it tracked up last year with the old arm still on car (daft i know lol).Anyway ATS wanted another 60 notes for a minimal adjustment so thought screw this ill do it myself.
Got my string out and after an hour i had the steering set up perfectly for no more outlay.She drives beautifully again now!
 

rob88

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Hi.I fitted one of these cheaper ebay lower arms last year and did the other last week.After 1 year with the OS fitted its aged well so decided use same again for NS.I suspect the steel between the arm and rubber bushing will rot out after 3/5 years,especially the forward mount which is where these things fail.That said at £80 both sides and straight forward DIY job i can live with that.
I wouldn't worry too much about these being bolted up off the ground....when lowered we are only talking a few degrees of movement until load settles.This is an issue with the upper arm though but you can use a pin and insert into a fitting hole on inner wing to locate arm correctly.
On the NS lower arm i fitted last week i noticed my steering wheel didn't centre as it should.I knew this would happen as i had it tracked up last year with the old arm still on car (daft i know lol).Anyway ATS wanted another 60 notes for a minimal adjustment so thought screw this ill do it myself.
Got my string out and after an hour i had the steering set up perfectly for no more outlay.She drives beautifully again now!
Thanks Kaput, good to hear your experience with these and some valuable info there I'll probably need in the future.
I'll keep an eye on the arms and will have a good look again in a few weeks. I think I will leave the upper ones for now and maybe just replace the ball joint rubber covers and grease.
Thanks
 

Bounder

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I highly recommend the Problem Solving Bushes for the front bushing replacement, They are a very easy fit and made a big difference in the handling of my 7th gen when I had it.
They also are not a huge price, I would take the opportunity to use some antiseize on the bolts that secure them to the chassis while you are in there.
 
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