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major rear brake issue - 2007 Tourer

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wholearmful

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Nottingham
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Accord Tourer 2007
I have a March 2007 Honda Tourer 2.2 diesel exec as a lease vehicle.
Just passing 120k. Six weeks ago had a grinding noise from rear nearside wheel. Repaired at non main agent as siezed brake caliper. Now been back to garage every 7-10 days since as the fault re-appears. Each time increasing amounts of braking system replaced, now including the main module on the left hand side of the engine bay. Still no success.
Not my financial problem, but it's a major headache having to get the car recovered and arrange a hire vehicle.
Anyone seen something similar?
 
Tony the rear brakes is a known problem have you had new callipers fitted.A lot of the time its just a matter of a good clean.Do a search there are lots of topics on this.
 
Tony, it could be a perished rear brake hose - close to the caliper. It's a recognised issue by Honda that affects the tourer models (probably a good reason why this sort of issue should be going to the main dealer).

It sounds like they've replaced the ABS module in the engine bay? I can't see why they would do that!! Throwing expensive parts at the problem is just silly really.

Have a chat with a member called Hot Fuzz - he had a similar problem on his tourer last year.
 
Just a little question did these experts remove the disc? because the hanbrake shoes live in there, and it could be those that are noisy. I was silly enough to allow a garage change my disc's and pads, they adjusted the hand brake clicks to 3, and I had a fire going in about 20 miles.
 
I guess we should ***ume that a garage willing to replace an ABS module will have checked all the obvious things B)

Wait.. did I just suggest we should '***ume'. I must be going senile in my old age.
 
Thanks for the responses everyone!
Callipers(twice), discs/pads, hose and pipe replaced before they got around to the ABS module as a last resort. Pads are wearing out in a week (800-1,000 miles)
I'm pretty certain they've tried all the suggestions above.
I've been very happy with the garage ( as used by Fleet Support) for more than 20 years. Certainly did a better job of sorting out previous issues that main agent.
 
From the posts it appears that the rear pads are not releasing hydraulically; usually if this affects only one wheel then the usual causes are either mechanical or the flexible brake hose suggested previously. The only other item not yet changed is the brake master cyclinder, which could cause the same issue but usually affects more then one wheel?

Have you tried jacking up each wheel after a short run to see which wheels are binding, if you detect one open the bleed nipple on the affected wheel and see if that frees up the wheel.

Doubt its the handbrake as on the tourer these are entirely mechanical and operate seperate shoes, not the pads
 
That's right Terry and as he's said his pads are being eaten very quickly it's definitely related to the footbrake.

I wonder if the pads are actually sticking in the carrier.

Tony, when they replaced the calipers - did they also replace the carrier? As the pad physically sits on the carrier, if it's sticking in there - no amount of caliper swapping is going to fix it.
 
An overadjusted handbrake causes friction, friction causes heat, heat makes metal expand, and the metal rubs against the brake pad and wears it out. Yes?? I have had it happen.
 
Bit far fetched but anything is possible, and really we don't have all the facts here. I still think if all the parts have been replaced, then the carriers are the cause or even slider pins.
 
That's true but I think in this instance they've probably genuinely wanted to fix the problem but are scratching their heads. Maybe Tony can confirm whether the carriers and slider pins were done and we can take it from there.
 
I'll check the Fleet Support records to confirm if the carriers/slider pins were replaced as part of the process. Car being recovered back to garage on Tuesday.
 
wholearmful said:
I have a March 2007 Honda Tourer 2.2 diesel exec as a lease vehicle.
Just passing 120k. Six weeks ago had a grinding noise from rear nearside wheel. Repaired at non main agent as siezed brake caliper. Now been back to garage every 7-10 days since as the fault re-appears. Each time increasing amounts of braking system replaced, now including the main module on the left hand side of the engine bay. Still no success.
Not my financial problem, but it's a major headache having to get the car recovered and arrange a hire vehicle.
Anyone seen something similar?
Click to expand...


I had rear offside caliper seize on me in sept last year...cost me a new caliper ***embly, 2xdiscs + pads....OUCH! My local garage did a gr8 job, no problem since ;) My biggest headache was the issue I had whilst trying to get recovered - told the RAC that car could not be towed and that I needed a flat bed - so they sent me a patrol man who looked at it and confirmed what I had originally told the sodding call centre! Least I got a substantial discount on my renewal so I suppose it was worth the hassle!
 
Replaced the rear pads on mine this morning
Actually one of the easiest set I've done on a long time. Took a grand total of 50 minutes all in.
 
Saloon rears can be a bit of a handful, especially if the piston doesn't want to play ball. Worst I ever did was on my uncles 2004 Avensis - same design as your tourers.. so to take the disc off you had to basically us a sledgehammer to get it off the shoes in the drum!

Neighbours were giving me some funny looks I can tell you ;)
 
I must admit I was expecting to have to wind the pistons back in and all sorts of other faffing but no, I must say it was actually a pleasure to do them.
 
It's now 14th January and the car is still off the road. Despite involvement of main agent and Honda, the problem has still not been identified.
 
does the tourer have a valve to balance the front to rear braking force? these would normally alter the front to back braking force ratio depending on the load in the boot - i guess this could also be part of the ABS system? if this was playing up then it may be holding brake fluid pressure to the rear calipers even though the foot pedal is released.

otherwise, i would agree that it is the master cylinder - does the accord tourer have a front/back split braking system or opposite corners split system? if it's front/back then the master may not be releasing pressure.
 
to my knowledge there was a problem with the rear calipers on 03 - 06 accords where The brake caliper could not return to the normal position because of a missing actuator component in the parking brake mechanism. it just makes me wonder with calipers from motor factors whether some end up being done up and re-sold with the same problem inherant in them?. generaly though replacing the caliper or flexi hose solves the problem. the hoses tend to get stretched when people change pads without removing the 12mm bolt that holds the pipe in place. ime sure honda/your normal garage will get to the bottom of it.
 
Hi,

On my 2003 tourer the rear callipers kept seizing on so in the end i changed both rear callipers and they haven't seized again, i'm still planning on changing the rear brake pipes as the brake pedal still isn't right it feels quite spungey. I did buy a set of Hel braide hoses but they were completly wrong and didn't fit, i'm tying to get some more made at the moment! I'm not sure if this will help but the tourer rear brakes are a complete nightmare!!

Tim
 
By nightmare i mean i have had to unseize my rear brakes 5 or 6 times, the garage has taken them apart and they still seized on. I've also changed my rear callipers now and i'm still not happy with the brakes. Also there does seem to be quite a few people with problem rear brakes on tourers on here. I'm pretty compertant with a spanner i've been fixing my own cars for over 15 years and i'm an aircraft engineer as well so i have a fair idea about mechanics.
 
wholearmful said:
I have a March 2007 Honda Tourer 2.2 diesel exec as a lease vehicle.
Just passing 120k. Six weeks ago had a grinding noise from rear nearside wheel. Repaired at non main agent as siezed brake caliper. Now been back to garage every 7-10 days since as the fault re-appears. Each time increasing amounts of braking system replaced, now including the main module on the left hand side of the engine bay. Still no success.
Not my financial problem, but it's a major headache having to get the car recovered and arrange a hire vehicle.
Anyone seen something similar?
Click to expand...

Sounds suspiciously similar to something I experienced last sept on my Type S Tourer....my offside rear calliper seized on me...resulted in a completely cooked set of pads and discs. I ended up having my local garage fix the problem...1 new caliper, 1pair rear discs & 1 pair rear pads. car has been fine since (thank goodness)
 
main problem's that i see......especialy with windback calipers, is the piston seals twisting and allowing water into the piston and locks it up. what you need to do is spray some wd40 over the piston seals to allow the piston to spin inside the seal rather than twist out of shape. next is making absolutly sure the pads move freely in the sliders. if the pads are tight they will stick and cause abnormal wear of the pads.
 
Pepster said:
I too have two tourer petrol , one 2004 and 2007 both of them have never given be any issues ..


must be a diesel thing..
Click to expand...

Nope, mine were absolutely dead simple, no wind back piston, just 2 bolts, off it came, pads slide out easily, quick clean of the carrier with a flat blade and some brake cleaner, touch of copper grease, push the piston back in ( I used a large G clamp with one of the old pads in place to protect the piston itself and ensure its pushed back in true, new pads in place ( copper grease on back to stop any squealing) and bolt the caliper back in place. absolutely the easiest set of brakes I've changed in YEARS. In fact I'd go so far to say the only easier set of brakes I changed were on something made by Raleigh! :D
 
beefy_634 said:
main problem's that i see......especialy with windback calipers, is the piston seals twisting and allowing water into the piston and locks it up. what you need to do is spray some wd40 over the piston seals to allow the piston to spin inside the seal rather than twist out of shape. next is making absolutly sure the pads move freely in the sliders. if the pads are tight they will stick and cause abnormal wear of the pads.
Click to expand...

Don't use WD40 near brake caliper pistons as it causes O-rings to swell. So if the spray gets past the dust seal it could then cause the fluid seal to seize against piston. Only use red rubber grease around brake pistons (copper grease on the back of pads to stop squeal is fine).
 
Just read the original post. I had a similar problem with my 06 Tourer last year. My handbrake cable snapped on one side, while in the garage they changed the cable, as well as the shoes, discs and pads. When I picked the car up, I realised straight away that the discs were binding. The garage wouldn't have it, but I made them put it back on the lift.

The mechanic couldn't work out the problem, but I remembered reading on the old forum, that there was a difference in the pre-face lift tourer and the face lifted tourer's rear pads. The pre face lift tourers pads had a nipple on the back which located in a slot on the piston. The face lifts don't have this. So the nipple was twisting the piston and not allowing it to return after braking, causing the pads to bind.
It's possible that this is the problem with the OP's car.
 
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