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Malfunction Light On: Emissions Issue

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Nightwalker

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Location
United Kingdom
Car
Honda Accord
Yep that ****** light has come back on again after about 5/6yrs or so, can't recall.

I had issues with my lambda sensor I think along time ago when my exhaust and CAT were done. Got some part online which screwed into the hole where the sensor went and kept the sensor at a distance from where it usually sits if you get me.

Anyway its back on again, dunno why, I'm depressed, thought it was sorted.

Might the sensor need changing? any ideas?

Cheers :)
 
It doesn't have to be the same o2 sensor problem as 5/6 years ago (that's quite a long period of reliability, so cheer up!). But, of course, it might be (especially if it seems to be running OK).

You need to have the code read - the ECU will have stored the code relating to your current problem. Either get an OBD2 reader or take the car to someone who has an OBD2 reader and get the code (DTC) read off. Otherwise it's just guesswork!

Sounds like you previously had a cat removed and an o2 spacer (cat fooler) fitted to the secondary sensor?
 
Yep a spacer is on there, so I don't get why its come up again :( I'm sure it was the lambda that has the spacer.

I will take it to AbbeyMotorsport Jap specialist, they will know what to do, but I'm just annoyed its come up. I'm getting the car slowly done up back to former glory.

Had some dents fixed, rear bumper just been sorted with a nasty kink, got one more slightly nasty dent on the side arch to do then full wax n polish and the car will be looking good. This feels like a step back :(

I hope it doesn't cost much to fix this issue :( damn it!!
 
Phil if it is the sensor gone again 5/6 years is not bad to be honest.As Jon said get the code read and you will be sorted.It might even just be the case its having a funny 5 min and just needs resetting.
 
Lambda (or O2) sensors don't last forever you know. The spacer is only there to fool the secondary sensor into reporting that the cat (which I'm guessing you've had removed) is actually making a change to the emissions (very common thing to do on Toyota MR2 roadsters, which is my other car). In actual fact, it's usually the electrical heater inside the sensor that often burns out... this then gets sensed by the ECU and brings up the warning light. If you're handy with electrical stuff, you can fit an external resistor to the wiring to substitute for the secondary sensor heater and save a bit of money. I've done this a few times on the Toyota, but can't accurately tell you how to do this on an Accord (my Accord is a diesel, unfortunately). I'm guessing that it isn't hard to change the sensor yourself.

Buy your own OBD2 reader - you'll probably buy one for less than a garage will charge you to do the diagnostics. And - when your mates have a car problem - you'll be able to charge them to diagnose their problems... Quids in!
 
OBD2 reader? you mean the thing to hook up to the car ECU for what's wrong?

When I had issues last time I don't think the sensor was burnt out or anything, had to use the spacer cos it was bringing the light up every month or so. Sensor was fine just needed 'spacing'.

Dunno why its come up now.

If new sensor is required how much are they? and how much for ECU check? can't be that much surely.
 
Nightwalker said:
OBD2 reader? you mean the thing to hook up to the car ECU for what's wrong?

When I had issues last time I don't think the sensor was burnt out or anything, had to use the spacer cos it was bringing the light up every month or so. Sensor was fine just needed 'spacing'.

Dunno why its come up now.

If new sensor is required how much are they? and how much for ECU check? can't be that much surely.
Click to expand...
Yes, an OBD2 reader hooks up to the ECU via a socket in the car and then reads whatever fault codes are in the ECU. These readers can be bought from, say, eBay for about 20 quid (especially if you get a bluetooth one to link with a smartphone app). Mine is a D900 standalone version... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2012-Version-D900-Car-Engine-Diagnostic-Scanner-Code-Reader-OBD-OBD2-OBDII-EOBD-/330807851185?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4d05af38b1

It doesn't have to be the same fault as last time... you'll have to get the error code (DTC) read off and interpreted. That's the only way you'll know.

I don't know how much you'll be charged for an ECU check. I guess it depends on if you've got a good relationship with a garage somewhere? It isn't unusual for them to charge you more than the cost of a cheap reader.

A quick fix for you to try is to disconnect the battery negative terminal for 20 minutes. This should clear the ECU and put the warning light (MIL) out. But, if you have a 'real' fault, then the light will come back on again after you've driven about a bit.
 
Weird thing, the light went out yesterday on its own!!! but now I'm getting an odd burning rubber type smell from the engine area or somewhere?

little help! hehe
 
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