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Need help! Sudden loss if power under heavy acceleration only.

A

Archiev2014

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Location
Ireland
Car
Honda accord
Ok so this past few days my 2006 I-ctdi facelift has been giving bother. It doesn't mater what gear I'm in when I put my foot fully down on the accelerator the rev counter rises to about 2500-3000 revs then it like the turbo just stops? Has anyone any idea what would cause this! Engine has only 78k on it, I have changed the fuel filter made no difference any ideas? Thanks :)
 
EVR / IMRC - sticky vanes? Any lights on the dash?
 
Oh and I presume you used a genuine fuel filter?
 
Ok, so that means that the car doesn't know there's a problem.

When you say, it's like the turbo stops, do you mean that the power flattens out? i.e. you have the turbo from about 1500RPM and consistent pull and then a stop at 2.5-3K RPM?
 
Yes the power flattens out! It wasn't a gradual thing it just seen to start all off a sudden! I have heard a few things egr valve, map sensor just not sure where to start! Don't really want to bring it into honda if it's something that I could fix myself! Thanks :)
 
When I put the boot fully down in any gear it will pull from 1500-2500 then the power drops and feels like the turbo has stopped, the revs and speed still increase but very gradual! Hope this helps thanks
 
MAP sensor. EVR / IMRC would throw a fault (pressure low / high or stuck IMRC). MAP and the engine doesn't know there's a problem.
 
It's a good a place to start as any.

Take out the MAP and give it a clean (you'll find there's gunk on it). Replace and test. To truly test the MAP you'll have to get it on a HDS. It could be simpler to swap with a know good MAP.
 
Ok, best of luck. It all else fails try the "MAP whack" as it's know on the S2000 :)
 
My cheap (D900) OBD2 reader will give real-time MAP data, so maybe you won't need an HDS if you can find a reader that will also do this?

Maybe there is a boost problem? I believe you can swap the boost EVR with the IMRC EVR on facelift models to see if the problem then also transfers, thereby indicating which EVR is at fault.
 
Quick update, I took the map sensor out this morning and cleaned it, didn't seem to bad. I reconnected it back up but the same problem persists! Where would I find then other sensors you mentioned? Thanks
 
Engine management light has just came on this morning when I was driving! Put the boot down and left it down and all of a sudden the engine management came on and the car went into limp mode I think, very very slow! Would the fault now show up if it was plugged in? Also is there anyway of resetting the limp mode as I have to drive to the airport tonight in and it's undriveable at the moment :(
 
Get the code read now - it will tell you the fault. I am in Dublin if you are stuck but not sure where your based
 
I'm in armagh mate :-( I haven't even got a code reader, if I disconnect the battery would that reset the limp mode? It's just we are going away on holiday in the morning and we have the car booked into the car park and need to drive it up as it registered to my number plate! Thanks
 
If you restart the car and the condition that caused the limp is resolved you'll be back to normal. If not it will tell be stuck on. You can disconnect and reconnect for what it is worth.
 
Like Jason says, disconnecting the battery (for at least 20 mins) and reconnecting will clear the Malfunction Indicator Light BUT if the fault is still active then it'll simply come back on again and bring about the 'limp mode' rev restriction again.

'Limp mode' does allow the car to still be driven at a reasonable pace, but it isn't really a great idea to use the car in this mode without understanding the reason for it... the problem might be causing damage, or might escalate to a severe enough problem that the ECU will completely shut down the engine. I'd buy a code reader ASAP and find out what's going on.
 
Thanks for your time mate! I disconnected the battery for 30 mins and then connected it back up! When I started the car the engine management light came back on, I then took the car for a drive and it was no longer in limp mode I'm away on holidays for a week tomorrow so when I get home I will have to get it plugged in and I will let you's know what the code is! Very grateful for the help
 
You may find a whole bunch of stored 'historic' codes when you connect a reader. Best to make a note of them and then delete them all... the one(s) that reoccur then definitely relate to a current problem.

Have a good holiday!
 
Which airport will you depart? Belfast might be alright as it's not that far away from Armagh, but certainly wouldn't drive to Dublin before knowing where the problem is if I were you.

Have a nice holiday and keep this post update
 
Hi all,

I have just registered on the forum having read this post. I was looking for some information on a fault I have on my Honda which is very similar to Archiev2014. I am not an expert on cars but can certainly find my way around an engine etc. But have to admit, some of the acrinims mentioned in this post got me lost!

Anyway, my problem is similar in that when driving in say 5th Gear (happens in 4th too) and when I put the foot down to pull away, there seems to be a slight delay, then the rev counter rises to around 3000rpm and then drops back to normal revs (2000rpm at about 60 - 70mph). During this rev increase, there is no additional power felt to the transmission. Almost like the clutch in not engaged momentarily??????

I can continue to drive the car steadily without issue and it doesn't seem to be effected by driving at errr Motorway speeds....... However, if I try to put the foot down, I get this reaction from the car.

As per Archiev2014 I have no fault light on the dash.

Could this be a clutch issue? But then if it was surely I would feel it when changing gears? Maybe Fuel pump? I am confused!

Any help is appreciated!
 
Hi Dave, if the revs rise, but the car doesn't speed up then it really sounds like a clutch issue. It's starting to slip and basically, the torque from the engine is breaking the limit of friction for the clutch. The clutch catches up eventually and hence the engine revs drop to match the load.

BTW - welcome to TA!
 
Just re-read the acronyms and you're right, they are thrown about without explaining what they are. Which gives me an idea for the forum, we should have a reference for each of the terms and what they mean!

Ok, so here goes:

MAP Sensor = Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor. This measures the air pressure in the intake manifold that feeds the induction stroke of air. Depending on how much air pressure is here (in the negative sense) allows the ECU to calculate airflow. If this goes haywire, then the car can believe the engine is running lean/rich and give strange effects.

IMRC = Intake Maifold Runner Control valve. This is a little valve that controls the length of tubing that the intake air must travel before heading into the cylinders. By altering the length of of the intake, emmissions, torque, power, etc and be adjusted.

EVR = Electronic Valve Regulator. This is a solenoid (switch) that can be used control airflow into/out of a system. On the diesel this is used to control the amount of vacuum send to the turbo vanes. The turbo on the diesel is a variable vane turbo where the pitch of the blades are coupled with the speed of the blades to control overall boost into the engine manifold.
 
Sorry Dave, but this sounds exactly like a slipping clutch. This is not a rare problem on these diesel Accords.
 
Not good! And sounds expensive too!!

From what I have read, it sounds like you have to change out the Flywheel too. Is this the case for all Clutch jobs on the Accord?

I'm beginning to prepare myself for the worst. She's 8yrs old now and at 95k. I was hoping the car would be good for longer than this.

Any idea what sort of costs could be involved? I've heard mixed messages from £500 to £2000!!!

Thanks for all the responses by the way!
 
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