Newbie Needs Some Advice

[grifter]

Hi Guys/Gals

Just joined up. I maintain a family member's 99 X plate accord 1.8i hatch and am looking for some advice on the following:

Rear lights - are they the same as saloon, I need to get a set as ours are all cracked (lenses seem very thin) and seem to get a lot of saloon pairs for sale on that site we all buy stuff from!

Handbrake - Had a few issues with this. About a year ago I noticed that only one wheel was locking when pulling hbrake on from like walking pace. Looked at the adjuster under console and the cable bar thingy was at about a 45 degree angle with hbrake on. Figured either the cable had stretched or the caliper had seized in off position. Short story is the caliper and cable were replaced N/S but it still seemed to not work that well and now doesn't work again.

Is there something else I need to check here? What is the common problems with these?

Last question how easy to do a clutch and timing belt, need any special tools? Both are overdue for replacement.

Thanks

Grifter

 

[luvmyaccord]

Hey dude. The lights are different shapes mate. You need hatch ones.

The handbrake is a common fault on the 6th gen. I've had the cable in my ATR changed twice in 2 years. The rear disks and pads have been changed too. The most comon problem is that the cables become siezed inside the carriers. They are about £90 fitted for a new set iirc.

As for the clutch and timing belt, the clutch is not too hard providing you know what you're doing. Lots of garages will tell you that the sub frame needs to be removed to be able to get the bell housing far enough off to get at the clutch. This is wrong. But most places to it anyway.

The timing belt is just like changing the same part on any other car. Although i wouldn't advise doing it youself unless you're rather handy with tools. And when changed i'd advise checking the tappet clearanes.

 

[grifter]

Hi

Are the tappets manually adjusted on these? I hope you don't mind me asking but why do they need checking after doing a TB?

Thanks

G

Hey dude. The lights are different shapes mate. You need hatch ones.

The handbrake is a common fault on the 6th gen. I've had the cable in my ATR changed twice in 2 years. The rear disks and pads have been changed too. The most comon problem is that the cables become siezed inside the carriers. They are about £90 fitted for a new set iirc.

As for the clutch and timing belt, the clutch is not too hard providing you know what you're doing. Lots of garages will tell you that the sub frame needs to be removed to be able to get the bell housing far enough off to get at the clutch. This is wrong. But most places to it anyway.

The timing belt is just like changing the same part on any other car. Although i wouldn't advise doing it youself unless you're rather handy with tools. And when changed i'd advise checking the tappet clearanes.

 

[lyserman]

To change the timing belt you will need some special tools. One to lock the crankshaft whilst undoing the pulley bolt >>Like this<< and one to lock the balancer shaft in the right place >>Like this<< .
The second is not essential but makes life easier.
The crankshaft pulley bolt can be stupidly tight if it has not been moved since new. I use >>This<<
to remove the bolt as it can be a painful experience when the socket wrench slips.
The valve clearances are manually adjusted but very easy to do and as you have taken the camshaft cover off to change the belts it makes sense to check them at the same time.
I would recommend changing the tensioner pulley as well as it is false economy not to. Too many times have I had to renew a tensioner that has failed even though the owner said the belts have been changed before they bought the car.
As you say the timing belt is overdue, then I would recommend changing all the drive belts at the same time. They all have to come off anyway so only do the job once.
As for the clutch, nothing complicated just like any other transverse engined car really.

Hope that helps and if you have any further ? then ask away.

 

[luvmyaccord]

The VC don't need doing, but after a cam belt change it's always a good idea to check them as the cover will be off. Especially as you said that that belt was overdue, they probably won't ever have been checked.

TonyB is pretty much spot on with his reply. I get my VCs checked every year anyway as it's just good practice.

Might be worth checking the condition of the water pump too. It's common practise on the ATRs to replace these at the same time as the cam belt.

Hope this helps dude.

 

[grifter]

Just a catch up on the clutch. I am doing it this weekend, any tips? I have done clutches mostly on a lot of fords, the escort, mondeo, sierra, fiesta, and some vauxhalls, and most other common cars, is there any sticking points or pains in the **** bits whilst doing this? I realise the engine is opposite way round to most non-jap cars but it shouldn't make it any more difficult.

Plan is:

Crack driveshaft nuts (i have the socket)
Front of car on axle stands
Disconnect battery
remove starter
detach bottom ball joints
Remove drive shafts
Remove any wiring/looms out the way and disconnect any plugs/electrical straps onto gearbox
do i need to Drain clutch fluid - not done many of these and it was years since i done one so can't remember if there is reason to drain it
Jack up the engine and remove mounts then lower engine (watch for cables getting stretched)
Start undoing bolts round box
Finally remove (drop box on hand more like ) the box "gently" and replace clutch

Of course I will find out these things when I get stuck in but just wanting any heads up, rules of thumb if you can?

Thanks

G

 

[grifter]

Just a catch up on the clutch. I am doing it this weekend, any tips? I have done clutches mostly on a lot of fords, the escort, mondeo, sierra, fiesta, and some vauxhalls, and most other common cars, is there any sticking points or pains in the **** bits whilst doing this? I realise the engine is opposite way round to most non-jap cars but it shouldn't make it any more difficult.

Plan is:

Crack driveshaft nuts (i have the socket)
Front of car on axle stands
Disconnect battery
remove starter
detach bottom ball joints
Remove drive shafts
Remove any wiring/looms out the way and disconnect any plugs/electrical straps onto gearbox
do i need to Drain clutch fluid - not done many of these and it was years since i done one so can't remember if there is reason to drain it
Jack up the engine and remove mounts then lower engine (watch for cables getting stretched)
Start undoing bolts round box
Finally remove (drop box on hand more like ) the box "gently" and replace clutch

Of course I will find out these things when I get stuck in but just wanting any heads up, rules of thumb if you can?

Thanks

G

Done the clutch and it was not too bad, I actually managed to pull the gbox onto the subframe with a jack under it and it rested there, I didn't even need to remove the box from the engine bay to change the clutch!

Difficult bits - I would say the bolts at the very back of the box in engine bay hold on the gear lever rods are a bit of a pain to get into, and also there is a bellhousing bolt right in at the very back of the engine above the driveshaft or thereabouts, I thought I had all bolts out and box wouldn't move until I discovered this hidden bolt. to get at this bolt use a long extension to reach in as it is hard to get just a ratchet in there. Also watch the bellhousing bolts as they are not all the same length.

There is the usual stripping down of air filter box and pipes, starter, driveshafts etc. and all the other bits around the box. I did strip the coolant pipe off at the top but really didn't need to do this and so lost all the coolant.

 

[adrenalinas]

if your handbrake is stuck you may need to change cylinder in brake caliper. they become rusty inside over time if driving with overused brake pads.