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Not your typical clutch question

padraig

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Accord Ex i-CTDi
Okay, this is about clutch slip ... but different scenario.

At about 89,000 miles I got my first day clutch & DMF replaced.

At about 102,000 miles the replacement started to slip.

I got it replaced yesterday, and the mechanic rang me to tell me that they had replaced it but the old one looked perfect, just slight normal wear. He couldn't tell why that clutch was slipping.

I bedded the original replacement in over >500miles, being very careful with it.

Any ideas?
 
2.2 i-CTDi @ 193BHP and 292LBFt torque
Could this have something to do with it?
biggrin.gif


Now seriously, there's a know problem with the cruise control switch. When not properly adjusted, it causes the clutch to slip.

Check:
http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/2928-clutch-issues-due-to-cruise-control/
http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/2455-clutch-pedal-switch-set-up/
 
Common issue pressure plate has fully adjusted and can no longer compensate.
 
The garage knows about the cruise control switch.

Common issue pressure plate has fully adjusted and can no longer compensate.

Monks, what do you mean by that? I don't understand :huh:

When I get the new one, how can I make sure it's okay?
 
Not uncommon at all, in fact very common as Monksy says. The friction disc is nearly always fine and like new.. it's the pressure plate that self adjusts. Come on man, where have you been all this time :lol:

Have a look at the clutch thread in the DIY section and you'll see what I mean.
 
Ah yes, I remember now ... must have amnesia or something! Thanks guys.

A question, should I remove the remap while I'm bedding the clutch in or should I just not floor the accelerator and use the turbo a lot? Would the pressure plate be better bedded in knowing that it has to deal with remapped power or something like that? What RPMs should I be changing gears at i.e. should I go 3K+ or is that too high for the moment?
 
No need to remove map just take it easy for at least 500 miles and not just motorway you want some stop start town as well.

The fact will still remain that the stock clutch cant handle the torque and the pressure plate will self adjust again requiring a replacment in the future.
 
What remap do you have Padraig?
 
What remap do you have Padraig?

I got a CelticTuning remap, figures in my signature. I got it before I found this forum and your service. I saw them on civinfo forum and they were popular there. The remap is great but maybe there's just too much torque going through it? Have you had any issues with your maps and new standard clutches like mine?
 
Did you get it done by honda dealer? Don't know if this makes any difference if its the high torque thats killing it.
 
Did you get it done by honda dealer? Don't know if this makes any difference if its the high torque thats killing it.

The clutch? If so, yes, got it done by a main dealer ... a very competent one at that.
 
I had a celtic map from 15k miles and needed the clutch changing at 32k. At 66k the clutch was slipping again so I fitted a 6 paddle clutch with uprated pressure plate.

Its true to say the remap does not help things but we have seen many std cars have this clutch slip time and again. I do beleive tho that Honda now fit a 325 clutch which is a slightly new design so it may be this will be okay for you.
 
Celtic are good mate, it's not really the remap as Andy says - it's inherent in the design of the clutch system on this car. Remap's don't help things, but it will eventually slip on a standard car (mine must have as it was done at less than 28k miles).
 
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