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P1166, P1167, & P0138

J

john_d

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Location
fife
Car
Saab 9-5 Aero
put a new cat on the wifes car, next day the MIL comes on, codes:

codes:

P1166 Primary HO2S (No. 1) Heater System Electrical
P1167 Primary HO2S (No. 1) Heater System
P0138 02 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank I Sensor 2)

i checked the front sensor with the laptop got a reading of 0.8v, i checked the rear sensor and saw a reading of 1.25v!

gave the car a thrashing and after a few minutes of this sensor 2 dropped to 0.2v, sat for a few minutes while i checked other things and it raised again, 0.9, 1, 1.25

car still starts and drives fine, still pulls like it should under WOT

any ideas
 
managed to get a free front sensor, did ****** all, still 0.8v on the front.
 
john_d said:
P1165 Primary HO2S (No. 1) Circuit Range/Performance
P1166 Primary HO2S (No. 1) Heater System Electrical
P0138 02 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank I Sensor 2)
Click to expand...
Are you sure you've written down the correct codes... the first two in your post don't 'line up' with the thread name!
 
Jon_G said:
Are you sure you've written down the correct codes... the first two in your post don't 'line up' with the thread name!
Click to expand...

you are correct, i copied and pasted the wrong ones, codes are corrected and i have now edited my original post

cat is a React - not gen honda.

everything elso is correct though, changed it with another sensor (***umed working good) and got the exact same reading.
 
now also getting a P0136 Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1, Sensor 2) :rolleyes:
 
The fault codes might suggest that the lamda sensor has failed in two ways - both the actual sensor element and the internal heater are both reporting as faulty (even though you swopped it for another). So has a connector been pulled off somewhere?

Sorry to ask, but when you changed the sensor, are you absolutely sure you changed the right one?
 
I only changed the front as that was the 1 I got from the scrapies, I did look for the cat sensor but obviously they were all underneath and i couldn't gain access to any of them
 
Old sensor is not a good solution as these LAF sensors becomes ***** after ~150'000km or ~100'000 miles.(usually)
 
but at £200 each i dont wanna spend it to find out it makes no difference.
 
Get a multimeter and see if the heater circuit has burnt out. I can't tell you exactly how to do this (as I'm not that familiar with petrol Accords) but I found it simple on our MR2 - this has 4 leads from each Denso O2/Lambda unit, the 2 black leads are the heater circuit (around 15 ohms) and the other 2 leads are the sensor connections (blue and white leads). Yours must be similar, but I know some Lambdas have 3 leads and share a common ground. If you're reasonably handy with electrics, then it's fairly easy to work it out!

It still sounds a bit odd - have you checked the connectors? How do you know it isn't the sensor underneath?
 
i dont know that its not the 1 underneath, i have nothing to change it with to try, the manifold lambda gets 12v at the engine loom side.

according to autodata the resistance should be

lambda.png


is that 3.3ohms or just 3 ohms and 12-14ohms or 12-14.3ohms?
 
Good question!
Can't be sure, but (from the way the front one is quoted) it's reasonable to ***ume that the comma is a decimal point, so front heater = 3.3 ohm and rear heater = 12 to 14.3 ohm
Can you measure the heater resistance easily for the one underneath? If it is just a burnt out heater, then it is possible to fool the ECU by fitting an external resistor (hanging by it's wires) in place of the heater element inside the sensor. I've had the rear one on the MR2 'fixed' like this for a couple of years... doesn't really matter on the rear sensor, as it's only there to 'prove' that the cat is working (and the sensor warms up eventually via exhaust gases). I used a 15 ohm, 15 watt resistor.
 
yeah it should be easy enough, i measured the 1 i removed from the front and only saw 1.3ohms, was expexting more..
 
john_d said:
yeah it should be easy enough, i measured the 1 i removed from the front and only saw 1.3ohms, was expexting more..
Click to expand...
Often, quoted resistance is given for operating temperature, so it'd probably go up to 3.3 ohms when it gets hot... so easier to know current consumption when running that way!
 
I've just realised that you were also the OP here... http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/12138-mot-fail-emissions/

So what happened regarding the retest?
 
well i put the new cat on and it passed, the MIL came on the next day.
 
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