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Pulsing noise/catching brakes

coderbyday

coderbyday

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Location
United Kingdom
Car
Accord 2.0 iVTEC SE
Another saga in the quiet accord. I think the soundproofing has just highlighted issues :D

At speeds of 20-30mph over smooth roads there's quite a clear low frequency pulsing noise. It was the same on uniroyal tyres and the new dunlops so it's not a tyre issue. With the windows down it seems to be a slight squeak to the noise too.

This afternoon I had each corner jacked up and rotated each of the wheels with my hands. Both front wheels seem to be catching at regular intervals with a slight grinding noise. They also slow down so I'm suspecting brakes. The rear wheels don't catch but they have a slight grinding noise to them, I think it's normal but you never know!

Case of warped rotors? Any cheapie solutions until the MOT comes where they can fix them properly?
 
It sounds like warped rotors, there's no real cheap solution other than replace the rotors (discs) and pads I'm afraid.
 
Just an update. MOT done. Needed new droplinks too. But the noise is gone! Definitely brakes then :)

Droplinks have dramatically reduced road noise too.
 
When I had probs with my FOS brake the wheel was hot (not warm) from the brake binding. Check the temp of the wheel after a drive in the car. Do not, and I mean DO NOT touch the disc! I stupidly did this and gave myself lovely flat finger tips for a month (i also woke the street up with my colourful language!).

Another giveaway was the lovely orange glow from the disc when I parked the car up at night.

I'd defo recommend getting it diagnosed and fixed asap. I left it a while and it cost me new pads and a caliper.

I initially thought it was a warped disc but it was the brakes binding.
 
Yup, sorry I wasn't clear - The front discs + pads have been done, no binding but the discs were in a right state. The noise has gone!

I really need to do the rears sometime soon but I think I will fit those myself.
 
The noise is back! Nothing through the pedals. Going in again to be looked at by an indie garage. Honda don't want to know and their approved warranty seems to be basically useless.
 
It's hardly the discs becoming warped again?
 
I'm wondering if the orange-glowing disc a while back caused some damage to the wheel bearing? Sorry, mixed up the OP and another post!

I get a slight grinding/rubbing noise from my rears after being parked up for a while, but it quietens after a long run... I think it's the ridge of corrosion at the edge of the disc rotors catching the pads.
 
I hope not! The fronts are still glistening and don't show any scoring and I haven't done any slamming on. It's louder with the seats down and the rear discs are quite corroded around the edges. I'll be taking all the wheels off tomorrow and finding the culprit corner.
 
They can't find anything other than "yes the rears certainly are corroded"

And just for comparison, the new-ish fronts;
pcpWQ6u.jpg


And the rears (eep);
eUbGnqu.jpg


Looks like I'll be fitting new discs and pads myself!
 
Well I'm at a loss - new rear discs and pads and its *still* happening! The car has all new brakes < 1 month old now :(
 
I'm currently having same kind of issue plus, when car rolling forward turn full left will get loudly grinding noise that is too embarrassing when driving!! Strangely, hasn't been too loud when hear outside of the car! For braking get intermittent squeak noise! Driver side brake line has spilt last week,brake fluid leak all over floor while car was on the ramp! new line fitted! God, I was outside my tourer, luckily safe my life..
 
Jon_G said:
Sorry Gareth, I was replying to Ray.

It would be a lot clearer if I was able to use the quote button!
Click to expand...
Hi Jon, I'm not sure if it's pads indicator as the pads were OEM fitted not long ago I would say about 15k max! Do you think is Bering. Sorry I don't want to hijack this thread..
 
The enhanced link doesn't work for me. First link doesn't really give any clues as to the problem, unfortunately.

Easy to rule out wheel bearings... the sound alters dramatically as you gently corner (without breaking) while keeping to a fairly constant speed. So a long windy road is ideal.
 
Fixed the link, will do some driving to catch out the wheel bearings next. But if it is then this is another "wear and tear" thing that the honda warranty won't cover :(
 
Ok, after re-reading the topic again, listening to the sound you've provided.

In summary when you replaced the front discs + pads the noise went away for approximately 1 month. After this time the sound returned. So, I'd be focussing my effort on the front of the car.

Let's look at what's involved in the replacing of the front brakes.

1. Anti-squeal spring is removed
2. Caliper bolts are removed
3. Caliper is removed
4. Pads are removed
5. Caliper holder (bracket) it removed
6. Disc holding screws are removed
7. Disc is removed
8. The caliper is pushed back to accommodate the new pads and will be pushed beyond an original sticking limit

With all of the above off, normally the following is completed.

1. The new disc is removed of storage grease/oil (brake cleaner)
2. The old hub is cleaned and any rust removed. A very fine amount of anti-sieze should be used
3. The new disc is mount and held in place with the retaining screws
4. The caliper carrier (bracket) is cleaned of rust and the slide and bolt areas treated to anti-seize
5. The caliper rubbers/slider pins are inspected, cleaned (wirebrush) and lubricated with proper grease (molykote) to prevent sticking/catching
6. The new pads are placed/fitted to the disc
7. The caliper is mounted to the bracket and clamps the pads
8. Bolts are refitted
9. Anti-squeal spring is fitted


I've high-lighted in bold some important points, so here's two theories

1. When originally changed the pads were push back and thus freed from any potential sticking. However, after 1 month of driving the calipers have begun to stick again and giving that dragging, catching, pulsing sensation again. This is normal as the rust on the piston can now spread. This has caused the pads to heat the disc to the point of warping it.

2. The slider pins weren't gresed correctly and this prevent the pads from floating off. After 1 month of driving the pads are being held to the disc closer than they should be and have begun to stick again and giving that dragging, catching, pulsing sensation again. his has caused the pads to heat the disc to the point of warping it.

I'm focussing on the brakes as the change of front pads and rotors (discs) have fixed the issue. However I suspect the underlying initial cause of the problem was never addressed and you are back to square one.
 
Is it the sound that bothers you the constant rumbling noise or the sound that's a bit like rain falling onto a roof?
 
Its the regular change in pitch that's annoying. I don't have a higher quality microphone that would highlight it better :(

Jayok that's very comprehensive! The fronts were done at an independent garage and I ***umed they would follow the steps properly, but I suspect they just do a standard procedure and apply it to all cars, I've done the rears to that standard as per the excellent guide in the DIY part of the forums and unlike the fronts replacing them did not stop the noise.

I'm going to take apart the fronts myself and see if I can spot anything obvious - starting with the caliper pins, I'm hoping the indie garage has some form of warranty for their work and I can ask them to fix anything I find. In addition to this - when I checked the rears the pins move freely and easily and were in good shape.
 
coderbyday said:
I'm going to take apart the fronts myself and see if I can spot anything obvious - starting with the caliper pins, I'm hoping the indie garage has some form of warranty for their work and I can ask them to fix anything I find. In addition to this - when I checked the rears the pins move freely and easily and were in good shape
Click to expand...
Just strip them off and carefully re-build each side back up. Use the right grease and make sure the calipers are free to float. Also, check for wheel for spin with both the caliper on and off the car (i.e. see how much the pads are dragging on the rotor)
 
Should there be absolutely zero drag on the discs with the pads on? Just a freewheel? I've not checked yet but I need to know what to expect.
 
Yes, there's should be NO drag with the calipers off. The only drag you'll find will be from the friction of the wheel hub, CV and driveshaft bearing and the drag of the gearbox fluid (***uming that it's in neutral). It'll all seem pretty obvious when you have it up in the air. But there should be no scraping noise or similar.

With the calipers on you'll have a little drag as the pad "floats" on the disc, but we're taking micrometers here. The drag should be very, very slight.
 
I did the driver's side last night;

- Front wheel span somewhat freely, with the wheel off but caliper on it was a real struggle to rotate the disc with the car in neutral. Took out the pins; Found dried up grime which I wire brushed off, cleaned and then hit with the moly, seems to move a bit more freely now. The outermost pad had a very miniscule gap you could see light through, the inner pad looked glued to the disc!
- Rear wheel was free and easy, pins were already greased and nice but I gave them another clean and greasing.

Results;
The noise seems to be lesser, its... moved to put it accurately, more rearward but about half as loud. Under braking off the motorway the car was pulling to the left which tells me that one of the passenger side brakes is now much more grabby than the driver's side which are now greased up.

In addition to this, I have discovered the indie garage didn't even touch the caliper pins and they've half-stripped a wheel nut leaving some pointy shavings for me to nearly slice my hand with grr.
 
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