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Rear brake bind please help

Accords

Accords

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Location
norfolk
Car
2.4 CM2
Help please as realy fed up now, so after I bought my car I noticed a near side rear hot wheel. So I had a look and the caliper was rusty and sliders seezed up. So did a bit of work replacing the caliper and cleaned up sliders, also new pads fitted. Still the same a very hot wheel. So next I replaced the discs and cleaned up the hand brake bits and bobs as I was there. The old disc was scored badly so needed doing. So now I have a very hot set of new pads, discs and new caliper!!!! So now after sifting over many problems with rear discs on the 2.4, was next a new flexi hose from Honda!! So replaced that today, very easy realy and guess what?? Two very burnt fingers after I pulled over into a layby to see if it had worked!! Still the same!! HOT wheels, calipers ect.

Got back home and took the wheel off, took the caliper off and wheel spins just fine, and I can push the piston in with my hands. Please if anyong can help as getting skint and burnt lots now!!

Pete.
 
Is it saloon or tourer? Has the handbrake been over adjusted? Have you checked the handbrake cable isn't seized? More common on saloons
 
I have filed them and they slide ok. Not the handbrake as does not bind with handbrake off.
 
Sorry its the tourer.
 
need to have at least four/five clicks to set handbrake, any less and they will bind, had it myself due to a over exuberant fitter. not sure what does it but maybe the car settles when loaded?
 
Its not tha handbrake as I said with the caliper off and the handbrake down the wheel spins fine.
 
non got them from Euro car parts, but both sides has them and not a problem on the off-side.
 
Have you removed the carriers removed the shims and cleaned off any rust debris etc. this can make the pads tight in the carrier if not. The brake wear warning tags aren't catching at all are they ?
 
yes mate done all of that, it seem as the piston isn't going back in. could it be something to do with the master??
 
You say you replaced the caliper, was it genuine reconditioned scrap yard? One way of checking if it's master is loosen the 2 nuts holding the master to the servo and see if that makes any difference in pushing the piston back.
 
Have you changed your brake fluid?
 
Hi guys, sorry been working. Ok so the answer are, the caliper was a recon one from euro car parts, no I haven't replaced the brake fluid but when I bled after the flexi hose was replaced it was very dark. Spoke to a friend who works for Honda as a mechanic and he said if it was the master then the other side will be the same.
 
Not sure about blueing but has my skin on the discs!!
 
Accords said:
Hi guys, sorry been working. Ok so the answer are, the caliper was a recon one from euro car parts, no I haven't replaced the brake fluid but when I bled after the flexi hose was replaced it was very dark. Spoke to a friend who works for Honda as a mechanic and he said if it was the master then the other side will be the same.
Click to expand...
Deff worth changing the fluid Pete but my guess is the Euro part is not up to scratch.
Iv heard this before about poor recon calipers from them.
 
Mmmmm that's what my Honda mate said. Will do the fluid after what I seen today.
 
I would say it's more than likely a dodgy recon caliper, after all the things you have tried and it's still binding. And to be honest I doubted the master cylinder as in 15 years working for Honda I can't remember the last time I had to replace a Honda brake master cylinder. Who made the recon caliper out of curiousity? I've fitted apec ones before and they have been fine.
 
Euro car parts mate. The thing I don't understand is, if it is faulty then why does can I push the caliper in with my hand if its not releasing!!
 
Sorry had a few glasses of wine
 
***s and wheels hey!!!
 
It could be the seals aren't fitted correctly, the piston slightly oval etc. it may be distorted just enough so when you release the brake pedal the seals are still slightly holding the piston on. We get this regularly now with accords and crv's the rear brakes are binding but the calipers will move back. I would take the caliper back, get a refund and get a different brand one.
 
NEWS FLASH. So just in from the garage and looks like I have resolved the pain in the wheel. OK so after taking out the sliders and cleaning everything again. Put it all back togeather and tested it and was still binding. So after looking through the caliper at the piston with a torch, I noticed that the piston was pushing in the the pin on the pad not the whole pad. So in other words the locating pin on the pad wasnt in the diameter of the piston. So when the piston was being realeased it was at an angle, so that what was causing the bind. So I filed off the pin and guess what?? No binding!!! Poor parts fitted. Thats why we should buy Honda parts but we dont!! I hope this helps anyone with hot wheels. Now for a glass of wine.
 
I'm Sure you have the wrong pads then.
In the 7th gen the pads for the tourer has no pins and a straight push back piston.
The saloon has a wind back piston with 2 locating pins that align with 2 pins on the pads.
This is if you mean the welded pins on the inner pad and not the metal fixing clip the pushes into the piston
 
I've had my tourer for 15 months and cleaned the rear brakes soon after getting it as they started binding. I then did it again a few months later and they have been fine until today. I got to work and smoke was pouring from the N/S wheel, the O/S was ok. Hopefully it will be ok when I leave work and get me home (5 miles away) but I think I'll be stripping it down tonight, great!

I'm hoping it's just crap around the pads that is stopping them from releasing as I cleaned all the rust off before and filed the edges of the new pads I fitted, they were a nice fit.

Also when cleaning slider pins you need to make sure you use the correct grease, it should be the red stuff. If you use copper grease this can cause them to seize and it eats through rubber.

I've always got replacement calipers from Brakes International, I don't think I'd trust ECP.

brett said:
I'm Sure you have the wrong pads then.
In the 7th gen the pads for the tourer has no pins and a straight push back piston.
The saloon has a wind back piston with 2 locating pins that align with 2 pins on the pads.
This is if you mean the welded pins on the inner pad and not the metal fixing clip the pushes into the piston
Click to expand...
I was thinking the same, sounds like saloon pads have been used as the tourer doesn't have the locating pins.
 
Tourer rear pads, at least they fit my one?

DSCN0331_zps1639da5f.jpg
 
Those are saloon rear pads, the tourer rear pads should not have the raised dimple in the top centre
 
Thats what I was about to say, the pads befor this set I fitted also had the locating pin. Is it possable the Euro Car Parts have the wrong part on there system?? Any way I orderd a set from Honda today. £50. If I had done that in the first place then I still would have saved money, time and burnt skin.
 
Put new Honda pads in today and no locating pin so fitted a treat. The part number is wrong from ECP. Will be ringing them in the morning.
 
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