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Rear Cambers

DJSR

DJSR

Members
Messages
207
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18
Location
Barnet
Car
Accord 2.2i CTDI
Hi All.

I previously posted a problem about rear alignment problems, due to my rear left wheel having a negative camber.

I've decided to buy a set of adjustable rear cambers to sort this ongoing problem out, but i'm not sure which ones to go for?? Honda or would anyone recommend any others??

Cheers
DJ
 
From what I remember there was nothing wrong with the geometry report you put up, yes visually the wheel looks to have more camber but the figures say otherwise. If you don't have any odd tyre wear I wouldn't bother personally.
 
-Rich- said:
From what I remember there was nothing wrong with the geometry report you put up, yes visually the wheel looks to have more camber but the figures say otherwise. If you don't have any odd tyre wear I wouldn't bother personally.
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Hi Rich, cheers for the reply. The car still pulls to the left, so it must be the negative camber. I've had the car up on the ramp, and had each camber measured, the rear left is out compared to the right.

When i first bought the car in 2012, the rear left tyre had worn on the inside so much you could see the white metal lining in the tyre. So since then i have increased the tyre size from 225/45/17 to 225/50/17 to help with that, which it has done, and the car doesnt pull as much, but still pulls a bit.

I really want to get this sorted out, and can only think of changing the cambers. What you think?
 
This is what Tony at WIM said to me when I showed him your geo report. Have you checked the subframe yet for signs it's moved?

The front combination between the NSF positive camber ( still in the green ) and the low castor ( still in the green ) collectivity adds a force to the left, plus the road crown.

Since these angles are not naturally adjustable it screams at me that the subframe has moved for whatever reason? Given the chance i would check the subframe pick-up points and look for witness marks meaning evidence the frame has moved.

The subframe pick up points are not a surgical fit so naturally adjustable or not it will move. Once live geometric reading are taken the front could be raised and the machine will deduct the suspension droop from the live readings, then the pick up points released so the camber/ castor/ both or just one depending on the movement, moved.
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Cheers for that Rich. Good info but that just went straight over my head lol I suppose I should take it to Wim???
 
It's definitely a complex subject, there are alot of areas I can't grasp that well. WIM are one of the best (if not the best) places to use, they think outside of the box to try and find out what's happening and correct it. I don't think they would charge you to have a look at it, only if any adjustments are made.
 
If as quoted the "angles are not naturally adjustable" I would defo be having the frame checked first DJ.

If it's ok I would look at the ingalls adjustable lower arms on the rear.

I think honda uprated the facelift control arms on the rear, but I think they were c£250 per side OEM.

Is the car lowered, on adjustable coils or had any other suspension modifications ?
 
Blanco808 said:
If as quoted the "angles are not naturally adjustable" I would defo be having the frame checked first DJ.

If it's ok I would look at the ingalls adjustable lower arms on the rear.

I think honda uprated the facelift control arms on the rear, but I think they were c£250 per side OEM.

Is the car lowered, on adjustable coils or had any other suspension modifications ?
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I got the car 2nd hand, so not sure if any mods have been done, but from what i can see looks standard, not lowered.
 
Isn't the America Accord different to our though, ours is the same as the TSX?

I would just take it to WIM and get a free checkup - I still say the subframe might need shifting and someone in that thread even suggested it for their car.
 
Hi Rich. I think I will take it to WIM. I messaged Tony. He recommended a full scan of the chasis which would cost 30 plus VAT.
 
Took the car to WIM, nice people, they tried re-aligning again on the Hunter machine, didnt make any difference. But they checked further and said to replace the tie rod on the front left and there was some play on the drive shaft and to possibly change that to.

So i went back to my mechanic, he had a look and both tie rods were fine, not loose at all and drive shaft also fine. But then when i moved the steering wheel quickly to the left then right (wobberling action) a sound came from below the steering coloumn, kind of like a knocking sound every time the steering wheel reached the centre or going straight. My mechanic thinks its the steering rack, and is double checking it for me.

Finally getting somewhere i think to sort out this annoying pull/drift to the left, but what a hassle its been. Hopefully it will be worth it in the end, fingers crossed.

Anyone know where to get a decent steering rack from at a reasonable price?? what good makes?? my mechanic said most a re-conditioned and never new.
 
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