Rear Discs and Pads Changed

[nick 9-5]

So I changed my rear discs and pads at the weekend (with the help of Dans excellent write up http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/6607-tourer-rear-brake-change/), and boy did they need to be done!

I was going to change the flexi's aswell but my spanner started burring the copper connector over and I bottled it before I immobilised my car on my mums drive.

I fitted a new caliper on the drivers side aswell as it had previously been binding. When I fitted the new discs, it sounded like the shoes were rubbing on them, but that seems to have disappeared after driving not too far.

My car got a fresh MOT the week before with an advisory on the condition of the rear discs but the rear brakes passed the brake test with ease at the MOT station, whoch is a real surprise when the old ones look like this!

In case it's not clear, the dark band on both the discs was the only friction point for the pads!

 

[OB1]

Wowsers! They definately needed doing!

 

[jayok]

Ok your problem looks like the new pads are sticking on the sliders/holders. I had this problem too. With the caliper removed you need to make sure the pads are relatively free to move in and out within the holders. Over time rust builds up and reduces the space between the top and bottom of the holder - it will need to be removed

 

[shab_the_man]

sounds like the slider pins were seized or the pads were getting caught in the carrier due to rust build up etc as mentioned above. Make sure the new pads are free and the slider pins are nice and easy.

 

[MattyB801]

This is a really common issue on nearly all Hondas with rear disc brakes, I've had it on 3 different civics and now my accord. Unfortunately for me, the caliper is actually seized too.

However, the posts above are right, corrosion under the sliders is the cause in many cases. Water gets in there over time and causes rust to forces the slider plate up, preventing the pad from moving freely.

The best resolve is to whip the caliper off and then the carrier bracket too. Then remove the slider plates and use a dremel or similar with a wire brush attachment and clean the slider seat up good and proper. A little coat of anti rust gel is a good move here and potentially a thin coat of paint if possible to reseal.

A full set of new slider plates can be had for sub £10 delivered from brakes international, as I believe the genuine honda accord tourer rear pad kit doesnt come with them (strange as every other honda I've had, has had these included in the box with genuine pads). You don't necessarily need them but its good practice to do so.

Refit the whole lot with a Nice smear of copper grease on the plates and your away!

 

[Jon_G]

As mentioned, I've also had the rear pad sliders stick numerous times, so bad it's like having a seized caliper (although once it was actually a seized caliper!). But they free off ok with a bit of cleaning, plus I lightly grind the edges of new pads to remove the paint and casting marks before smearing copper grease on them. I suspect the clearances are unusually tight?