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Rear heat shield

stellamon

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Location
Shrewsbury
Car
Accord 2.2i-DTEC
I did a trip to Cardiff and back on Saturday and noticed a metallic rattle on accelerating from standstill.
Stopped at a gas station and discovered the rear heat shield was disconnected from its fixings.
Fortunately it couldn't fall out so I completed the trip and got to fix it today cos it's dry.
The aluminium is very thin and had disintegrated from around the bolts. The bolts were hard to remove
and could only get 2 of the 3 out, fortunately this was enough to secure it.
Made some over sized retainers from a stainless steel brick tie and used bigger washers and new bolts.
Job done. A lot of rust under there which I'll have a go at when the weather warms up. It has been an advisory in the past.

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I did a trip to Cardiff and back on Saturday and noticed a metallic rattle on accelerating from standstill.
Stopped at a gas station and discovered the rear heat shield was disconnected from its fixings.
Fortunately it couldn't fall out so I completed the trip and got to fix it today cos it's dry.
The aluminium is very thin and had disintegrated from around the bolts. The bolts were hard to remove
and could only get 2 of the 3 out, fortunately this was enough to secure it.
Made some over sized retainers from a stainless steel brick tie and used bigger washers and new bolts.
Job done. A lot of rust under there which I'll have a go at when the weather warms up. It has been an advisory in the past.











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Hells bells ! I owned a Lancia with less corrosion.
 
Hi, I've had the very same issue this week.
While attempting to find where water was entering the spare wheel well in my 2011 Estate, I removed a grommet on the RHS which was above the Heat Shield and tapped a screwdriver in and it just fell off.It took a bit of fiddling to remove it but the corrosion was exactly the same as yours. Plus all of the rear, underside is extremely corroded. Did you have to remove the back box to do the repair?
 
Common issue, galvanic corrosion thanks to steel bolts and aluminium shields. Cut up some beer cans for a cheap fix - the domed bottom is thick and round so makes for a perfect oversized washer.
 
I did a trip to Cardiff and back on Saturday and noticed a metallic rattle on accelerating from standstill.
Stopped at a gas station and discovered the rear heat shield was disconnected from its fixings.
Fortunately it couldn't fall out so I completed the trip and got to fix it today cos it's dry.
The aluminium is very thin and had disintegrated from around the bolts. The bolts were hard to remove
and could only get 2 of the 3 out, fortunately this was enough to secure it.
Made some over sized retainers from a stainless steel brick tie and used bigger washers and new bolts.
Job done. A lot of rust under there which I'll have a go at when the weather warms up. It has been an advisory in the past.

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Any thoughts on how you are likely to 'tackle' the rust?
 
Did you have to remove the back box to do the repair?
I didn't but it would have made it easier.

I have an ***ortment of wire brushes to fit into my cordless drill to remove the majority the rust and a scraper/screwdriver for fiddly bits.
Then paint with rust converter and then some gloss black paint.
Not sure yet about removing some parts for access, I dread to think what's lurking under the spare wheel splash guard :oops:
 
I didn't but it would have made it easier.

I have an ***ortment of wire brushes to fit into my cordless drill to remove the majority the rust and a scraper/screwdriver for fiddly bits.
Then paint with rust converter and then some gloss black paint.
Not sure yet about removing some parts for access, I dread to think what's lurking under the spare wheel splash guard :oops:
Thank you for your prompt reply Sir.
I recently sold a 2008 Estate and some of the rear suspension components still had part number labels on them. I was of the opinion that the parts were OE.
However, having bought a Gen. 8 and looking at your post, I now feel that the Gen. 7 components were replaced at some point.
I was considering a power wash 1st then, when dry, the wire brushes followed by a rust inhibiter.
 
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