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Replace wheel stud?

mac5

mac5

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Location
Sunderland, UK
Car
2.0 SE Executive
Hi All,

Just had a hellish evening changing a wheel...

Driving home from a friends house, turn a corner and all over the road are scaffolding clamps, presumably a shed load. Front wheels miss them, but one of the rear wheels rolls over one. Cue punctured tyre. I pulled over as soon as it was safe to do so.

Whilst attempting to remove the wheel I managed to snap my locking nut key. One of the "pegs" sheared off totally. So I call a conveniently nearby pal, and we manage to get the car to his place by fully inflating the tyre and driving half a mile (I know, I know, not recommended).

Anyway, we couldn't get the wheel nut off with any method available (cold iron, hammering a smaller sacrificial socket on etc). We broke out the drill and had to drill through the locking wheel nut. 18 drill bits later and it's off. However, this has chewed the stud and I can't get a nut to thread on.

Do I need to replace my hub, or can a new stud be bashed in? Would this be an expensive job? I have brought the car home (two miles), but I won't be using it until I can get this sorted. I know this puts additional strain on the other nuts (four stud).

Am I looking at pounds or hundereds of pounds to get this fixed?

Advice appreciated.

Regards
 
Actually I have broken two wheel studs on the front wheels...

They are not easy to replace. The right way to do it is to remove the wheel hub and then replace the stud. The problem with this is that you have to "touch" the wheel bearing, and it's good practice to replace it, which makes the job quite expensive....
The other way, is to cut the stud, grind a bit of the head of the new stud, and force it's way into the hub. This was how did with both studs and it worked ou great.

I actually made a thread on it, where you can see some pics I took and info on the "alternative" method to do the job:
http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/7886-broken-wheel-stud/
 
proper way is too remove caliper and carrier.. remove disc.. grind a wee bit off behind the hub and hammer old one out.. then slot new one in and slowly chap it with a hammer into postion.. making sure that you have lined up the wee groves on the stud head with the grooves in the hub.. then re ***emble all it.. the wheel studs on the accords are crap and soft so tend to break every once in a while.. invest in a torque wrench and be safe in future.
 
At the time when I did that, I had no way to "grind the bit". Other than that, that's what I did!
About the torque wrench, I already had one, I guess the problem was the guys at the tire shop with the pneumatic wrench...
 
every good and decent tyre shop should be torqueing your wheels on.. if it was me personally I would be requesting that there torqued to 108nm (this is torque settings for accords) and that a air gun shouldn't be used to put the nuts back on.. its bad enough on any car never mind the accords which sadly suffer from soft studs and snap really easy.. lol
 
simorfc said:
every good and decent tyre shop should be torqueing your wheels on.. if it was me personally I would be requesting that there torqued to 108nm (this is torque settings for accords) and that a air gun shouldn't be used to put the nuts back on.. its bad enough on any car never mind the accords which sadly suffer from soft studs and snap really easy.. lol
Click to expand...
That's what I do now, I don't let an air gun near my car, and just in case, when I get home, I torque them all to 108nm....
 
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