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Sluggish drive until warm!

dave0922

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Location
Eastbourne
Car
99 Accord ES, F18B2
Evening all,

I am experiencing an issue that is rather annoying.

Basically, when I start up and leave for a journey, it seems very sluggish until up to normal temp.

Just to rule out the obvious, I have recently serviced every thing including the following:

1. New K&N panel filter
2. New fuel filter (honda original)
3. New engine oil and filter
4. New front and mid section exhaust
5. Due to MOT Emissions failure I have had a new secondary o2 sensor fitted
6. New honda ATF fluid (correct level)
7. Cleaned out the EGR valve and intake manifold plate
8. New spark plugs
9. New distributor cap

Now, there is a slight leak from the exhaust from the front end somewhere but cant for the life of me find where it is. There was originally a leak on the new front pipe due to poor welding but had it welded and seal tested afterwards.

So I am really confused as to what could be causing this sluggish behaviour at start up because it never used to do this?

Also, recently reset the ECU but made no difference. Once it is warmed up, it goes like the clappers.

Any idea's guys?
 
Thanks for quick reply CJ.

Well, I have not had the valve clearance checked in the 2 years of owning it so I suppose its time for that. I do hear a slight rattle when cold so perhaps it is the LMA?

Is the LMA expensive to have done? I would imagine that its a head off job?
 
Just had a look at the manual. It would appear that LMA only applies to DOHC, where as mine (F18B2) is a SOHC and therefore not a true VTEC ***embly.
 
Just had a look at the manual. It would appear that LMA only applies to DOHC, where as mine (F18B2) is a SOHC and therefore not a true VTEC ***embly.

Look again, they are there, item nº15 ;)

http://www.hondaoriginalparts.com/honda_car_parts_selection_pfk.php?block_01=17S1A11&block_02=E__1201&block_03=2300
 
What lambda sensor did you put, a generic one?

I installed a NGK in mine and so far, I had no complaints.
 
Look again, they are there, item nº15 ;)

http://www.hondaoriginalparts.com/honda_car_parts_selection_pfk.php?block_01=17S1A11&block_02=E__1201&block_03=2300

Oh, well done for that mate. Hmmm, seems that they are relatively cheap too, might just go and get me some for the sake of ruling out the subject.

Do they just push in place or does somthing have to come out first (IE: rocker arms)?
 
Also, just another thought. I removed the resonator and replaced with a cold air feed direct to the airbox, which at first seemed to improve the responsiveness overall. Do you think that the paramaters may now have gone off the scale? cant see how it would though as the resonator is just a silencing part. Just a thought though!
 
Also, just another thought. I removed the resonator and replaced with a cold air feed direct to the airbox, which at first seemed to improve the responsiveness overall. Do you think that the paramaters may now have gone off the scale? cant see how it would though as the resonator is just a silencing part. Just a thought though!

It might be a good idea to fit the resonator again, just to try.
BTW, the resonator is not used only to silence things, its also has some effects on the engine performance, don't ask me why, I don't know

As for the LMA, I have been looking around and its "relatively" easy to replace, but it still gives some work. According to a Honda-Thech forum topic, you need to do the following:

1. Take off the valve cover
2. Remove cam caps/cams
3.Remove the rocker ***embly
4.Remove lost motions
5.To install do in reverse order
6. Before installing it back together loosen all the valves , install and torque everything back together and last but not least re-adjust the valves.

Taken from: http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2414136
 
CJ: Can a worn LMA harm engine performances?
I have been reading a little about it, and I got with the impression that it only makes the engine more "noisy".
 
CJ: Can a worn LMA harm engine performances?
I have been reading a little about it, and I got with the impression that it only makes the engine more "noisy".

Thats what I was wondering, I cant understand how it would affect performance?
Also, seems to be a job that I dont really fancy doing to be honest!
 
Also, seems to be a job that I dont really fancy doing to be honest!

Ye, its not a trivial thing. I guess the most tricky thing is that you have to deal with the timing belt, and after the job, setting the timing and belt tension.

It's something that I would do with no problem, since I replaced the timing belt, I know how to do those things... still, I realize it would take its time and it could be tricky...
 
I think I may have found the real cause of my problems. As another guy just pointed out on another thread of mine, my idle speed is about 450rpm when it should actually be 750rpm. Seems I may have a dirty IAC valve!

Anybody know how you get the damn thing off to clean it? It is right behind the throttle body and would seem inaccessable?
 
I think I may have found the real cause of my problems. As another guy just pointed out on another thread of mine, my idle speed is about 450rpm when it should actually be 750rpm. Seems I may have a dirty IAC valve!

How do you know its on 450rpm's? Just by looking at the tachometer or have you connected any OBD reader or any gadget to monitor the RPM?
I ask you this because mine, in the car tachometer, it seats just above 500rpm, but when the computer is connected to the LPG ECU I noticed it was at 750rpm...

Anybody know how you get the damn thing off to clean it? It is right behind the throttle body and would seem inaccessable?

It's not that hard, you just have to remove the throttle body, 2 nuts and 2 bolts and then you have access to the IAC valve, although quite limited, it's easy to take out.
Just take care when removing the throttle body, there are a few vacuum lines, some of them made of metal, which you have to take them off.

Actually I will do this job in a few weeks, when I have the time to do it.
 
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