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Sluggish to start and no power

Paddyd101

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Location
Ireland
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Accord 2.2cdti
Hi all,

I am need of your knowledge and advice.

My 2005 ictdi has become very sluggish to start, not all the time. It will start first 'crack' some of the time and other times it will take up to 10-15 seconds of constant winding before it fires up. There does not seem to be any specific pattern with this either. It might start first thing on a cold morning and after driving 1 hour it may be harder to start. In other words it doesn't appear to be only when the engine is cold.
Once the car fires up it seems fine. It doesn't seem to stutter or anything like that. It will sit at idle no problem and doesn't seem to be 'starved' of diesel.

Another problem I have and I'm not sure if it is related, or a different problem entirely is that it is very much 'down in power'. There is no power or acceleration in the lower rev range. If I needed to overtake someone I would need a long stretch of road to get the speed up. Once it gets up to speed though it drives fine. It will go along at 70-80 -90mph no problem and again doesn't misfire.

I took it to my local Honda dealer for a diagnostics but there were no faults found. The honda mechanic speculated that he thought I needed a replacement fuel rail. He also said the solenoid on the turbo was 'leaking' and he said that I might get away with replacing the solenoid but might need the turbo replaced.

I was reluctant about rushing out to replace these parts without being sure that this was the problem. So I took it to my local (indpendent) mechanic. He was not able to give me any more info, other than the egr valve was clear, that he felt the turbo was working ok and that I needed an exhaust manifold gasket ( although he did say this wasn't going to fix my problem).

I collected my car from him this evening and now the problem seems even worse than before. Still sluggish to start (surprise surprise) and much less power ( couldn't go up a gentle hill in 1st gear without stalling). It isn't running in limp mode as far as I can tell. That happened to it before and it wouldn't rev out over 2000rpm. That's not happening now. There are also no lights on the dash.

And a brief history - About 10 weeks ago I replaced the 4 injectors, injector pump and the egr valve (all second hand parts). Not sure if fuel filter was replaced but I imagine he should have. The symptoms I was having at this time were different to now. As I said It began running in limp mode until it cut out and wouldn't start. The replacement parts definitely sorted the problem at that stage. I just don't know where to go from here.

Sorry about the long winded story but there is quite a lot to tell about my car and I'm at my wits end.
 
Hi were your injectors coded correctly when replaced? Why were all these parts replaced?

When Honda checked it, do you know if they ran any functional tests on the turbo, fuel and egr?

Where are you located?
 
And there's no error codes being thrown by the car? Seems unusual? As Fahad has asked, were the injectors coded into the ECU?

Beyond that:

1. Confirm correct fuel filter
2. Was the IMRC cleaned?
3. Does the EVR/etc behave ok?
4. Lack of power - does the turbo spin in at the correct RPM?
 
The fuel rail was mentioned... it is possible that the rail pressure sensor has become faulty (so wrongly reporting rail pressure). Difficult to establish without substitution, as even HDS would use the rail sensor to obtain fuel pressure readings. As Jayok said, very odd to have such a problem without any error codes, but a faulty rail sensor might do this.
 
Hi my car recently suffering no power too! The EGR valve and IMRC was brand new 20k miles ago.. and I change fuel filter new 2 days ago,
 
Thanks for your replies.

Fahad - I honestly don't know if the injectors were coded. All I can say is that the mechanic did the 'leak over' test and found that one of them were very poor. So I got a replacement for that one. He rechecked them all and coin that the replaced injector made the rest look very poor. So I got 3 more. He also said the sensor on the pump was faulty. I tried to source the sensor however no breakers yard would separate it from the pump. So I replaced the entire pump an sensor.
I don't think honda did any functional tests. I think it was a straight up diagnostics check and vehicle health check. Costing £66. They never even suggested a functional test of the separate components. I'm in Northern Ireland, so not terribly convenient I'm afraid.

Jahok- definitely no faults on the computer. I am curious now that its got worse will any faults show up.
The IMRC wasn't touched.
Do you guys think replacing the fuel filter with genuine part would be worth while?
The EVR valve hasn't been looked at as yet. Might be the next port of call.

How can the mechanic check if the injectors were coded to the ecu? (Different mechanic to who did the initial work)

Thanks guys
 
There isn't any sensors in the pump, but there is a solenoid called the pressure regulator actuator. Honda don't sell this part, so I had to buy one from Bosch when mine played up last year... http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/12692-fuel-pump-solenoid-removal/

It's possible that you may have replaced a good pump (albeit with a duff regulator) with a faulty replacement?

There seems to be doubt regarding your fuel filter... it isn't too hard to see it bolted to the bulkhead on the passenger side. You should be able to tell if it looks new and confirm it is the correct Bosch part ending in the numbers 442. If it looks old, or is any other type of filter, then it should be replaced with the correct item. These engines are unnaturally sensitive to the fuel filter type!
 
Thanks for all your help so far guys. I plan to have a look at the fuel filter anyway, and if its not the genuine Bosch part or of it looks like it needs replaced I will start there. I also plan to get another diagnostics done on it, as I've said the symptoms have changed (got worse) since the previous diagnostics. I'm hopeful that something will show up and give me some indication as to where to go.
If anyone else has any 'light bulb' moments of inspiration, please let me know.
Many thanks.
 
Would a diagnostics show a faulty pressure regulator actuator?

How can I tell if the injectors were coded correctly?

Sorry about my lack of technical information and knowledge. I just want as much info to discuss with my mechanic before he starts looking at the car from top to bottom.
 
The car needs to go on a Honda HDS or a decent diagnostics machine such as a Snap On Modus or Launch unit. Basically anything that has the ability to read and write injector codes to a common rail engine management system.

You need to read off the codes stored in the ECU for each cylinder and compare them to the 6 digit codes stamped on the top of each injector to ensure they match.

On a HDS you can also check how well they are calibrated by running a functional test.
 
Thanks guys. I'll get it plugged into the proper computer and take it from there. I wouldn't b surprised if it throws up a fault code now. I'll also change the fuel filter as a matter of course. I'll keep u posted, and may be back on looking more advice if anything else comes to light.
 
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