Soft and hard clutch pedal

[si_d_2003]

Hey Guys,

my 2.2 Diesel 2007 has just reached 90,000 and not had a problem at all with it, only popping out of 1st gear on overrun a few times. Tonight the misses broke down, the clutch pedal was stuck to the floor and she couldn't lift it up. She got it pushed to the side and by the time I got there it was ok and the pedal came up and was not too bad. I managed to limp it back to work as it got spongy every now and then due to traffic lights etc. Biting point was high some times and other times low. I had a quick look before leaving it at work. I couldn't see any leaks from the slave and the carpet wasn't wet inside and the fluid level was still on max. So if there is no fluid loss, is there a known problem with these? Clutch? DMF? Seals going in master or slave

Cheers.

 

[Jon_G]

I'd want to rule out hydraulics before getting the clutch replaced, so give it a good bleed and see how that helps. I'm thinking that you may have a failed seal in one of the cylinders. If fluid comes through that looks black and sticky then that would indicate a decaying seal.

 

[jayok]

+1 Clutch hydraulics. It must be the time of the year or something mine failed about 2 months ago, causing gear grind, and I've done another one (CMC) yesterday.

Check the fluid reservoir so see if it's still full. If it is, it's probably the Master if it's empty it's the probably the Slave. Look for leaks and you'll find it.

Bleeding a pain BTW.

 

[si_d_2003]

Thanks Jayok, did you fit a MC from honda or aftermarket one, how much was it. I did a quick check after limping back to work. The reseviour was still full, so hopefully it is the MC. Is the any special bleeding precudure? Ive done it a few times and some cars bleed easier different ways. I know the slave has a nipple, but I have bled systems by pumping the slave pushrod in and out to push the air back up to the reseviour. Would you recommend this way or just open the nipple and pump the pedal?

 

[si_d_2003]

Also did you use DOT 4 to refill the system or do honda have some special grade?
Cheers

 

[Jon_G]

I use DOT4.

Open nipple, get ***istant to push pedal to floor, close nipple, get ***istant to release pedal. Repeat until fresh fluid is ejected from slave and don't forget to keep topping up!

 

[jayok]

Thanks Jayok, did you fit a MC from honda or aftermarket one, how much was it. I did a quick check after limping back to work. The reseviour was still full, so hopefully it is the MC. Is the any special bleeding precudure? Ive done it a few times and some cars bleed easier different ways. I know the slave has a nipple, but I have bled systems by pumping the slave pushrod in and out to push the air back up to the reseviour. Would you recommend this way or just open the nipple and pump the pedal?

I fit a genuine Honda part - revision code 04 at the end of the part number. This was the rev that fixed that damn clutch creaking! It was €130 from a dealer over here. Although you'll get cheaper from Holdcroft with the discount.

As for the process of the bleed, it is as Jon has described with the exception that you have to prep the Slave cylinder. For some reason, air seems to get trapped in there and won't bleed properly unless you compress the slave prior to bleed. To do this, put a piece of wood between the push piston and the release lever of the clutch. This initially will push the fluid back into the reservoir, but ensures that there's no fluid/air in the slave. From this bleed as above.

Word of warning, fluid gets taken in from the reservoir on the clutch pedal going up, so keep and eye on the level between each stroke. Also, push/pull the clutch pedal *slowly*. If you do it too quick, you'll suck in air.

Alternatively, you can reverse bleed the system, this works well also. I'd to do this with my S2000 for a successful bleed.

 

[jayok]

Oh and I also used DOT4, the clutch fluid doesn't get exposed to the same heat as the brakes, yes, it's overkill, but it's as cheap as DOT3.

 

[si_d_2003]

OK so.... changed the master today. That top bold is a ***** to get to!
Flushed the system and the fluid was green. I have never seen green dot 4 and it smelt like eggs.
http://imgur.com/bOE9HwM

It seems ok I have a pedal, the biting point is a little different but is half way up the travel so I will keep an eye on it. Thanks for the help guys!

 

[jayok]

Well done!

Ok, the clutch pedal bite point can be adjusted if you feel it's not right. You need to make sure that the clutch isn't dragging and that there's enough free play in the system.

If you removed the CMC you'll notice a bolt on the push pin that connects onto the bracket that connects to the clutch pedal. You can adjust this to increase / remove the free play. This in conjunction with the cruise switch will give you the right amount of throw and free play (free play should be about 10mm, but I adjust for about 5mm, 10mm feels too loose).

Make sure you aren't over zealous with minimising free play as you'll end up riding the throw out bearing.

 

[si_d_2003]

Yeah I noticed there was a fair amount of free play so I adjusted it to 10mm. My friend has an 08 Civic and the job just looks a ******* compared to the Accord. It was easier than expected.