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Soundproofing - Many guides inside

Because the main supplier for myself seems to be down, here's a list of alternative products;

Heavy layer/mass loaded vinyl:
http://www.advancedacoustics-uk.com/Soundproofing-Mat--125m-by-3m-by-2mm-thick

Closed cell foam (go for 3mm underneath the vinyl/6mm for a bit more absorption);
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/dobble0_0/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686

Open cell absorbent foam (keep away from wet areas - go for medium/high density at least1 inch thickness)
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/diy-foam-upholstery-supplies/FOAM-Upholstery-seating-/_i.html?_fsub=6068862015&_sid=1112569995&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

Damping sheets / foam / MLV - Go for 4mm silent coat over 2mm if you can, it works significantly better. I find their foam/MLV to be overpriced however.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/sound-deadening-shop/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=
 
It looks good! The closed cell allows it to be used in wet areas (like the wheel arches) too, I would recommend two layers if possible, but if you do the arch in one layer and the bolsters in another that should be plenty.
 
I got my foam at the weekend and have put it behind the rear seat bolsters. With the new rear tyres road noise is much better but I still feel a lot of noise is coming from the front (Ideally I would like to change the front tyres too).

Its a work in progress but going in the right direction, cheers!
 
This is why I went for the front arches initially; if you reach under your dashboard to the sides of the body you will feel nothing but metal. This metal is a single layer which on the other side is just behind the plastic wheel arch guards.

On volkswagens the approach is to stuff this cavity with foam but most other companies extend the bulkhead insulation around this part. Honda did neither so you have a weak spot where anything added will help greatly. I chose behind the arches because it's easier to access. Simply stuff it with foam. Closed cell only!
 
I've just bought some thinsulate to do my car.

The first thing I would like to try is remove the rear wheel arch liner and stick it on there...

Is there a guide for removal of the clips?

I've ordered replacement clips because being a clot head I'll break every last one...!

If only it would stop raining for a bit so that i can try this!

Do you reckon adding a layer of foam, then MLV then Thinsulate will do the trick or will Thinsulate on it's own do the job? (I'd much rather just use thinsulate!)

Thanks
 
Thank you guys.

I bought the Thinsulate 4020-6-60 directly from 3M after speaking with one of their Thinsulate reps.

I will be using a 3M (9629PC) double sided mounting tape that was recommended for the purpose - I just hope that I don't have to tape over any edges where I have to cut and fit this stuff as it is going over the wheel arch liners and they're likely to get wet.

I'm also considering purchasing polyester felt fabric to line the road facing side of the wheel arch liners as apparently that makes a huge difference and why some car manufacturers use this kind of lining. I just need to research the kind of adhesive I'm going to use to stick it down - needs to be waterproof, adhere plastic to plastic, be operated in -20 to +80 deg C temperature range and be easy to apply... maybe I'm reaching here, but who knows.

Check https://www.diva-portal.org/smash/get/diva2:21578/FULLTEXT01.pdf

Just check out the Mercedes S Class Wheel Liner construction... crazy!
 
Haha, you're really going for it! That paper on arch liners is really good and gives a lot of useful info.


I just need to research the kind of adhesive I'm going to use to stick it down - needs to be waterproof, adhere plastic to plastic, be operated in -20 to +80 deg C temperature range and be easy to apply... maybe I'm reaching here, but who knows.
Click to expand...
I've used "butyl rope" with great success for external and waterproof fittings, including fixing door membranes on my accord and in wheel arches on other vehicles;
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BUTYL-ROPE-X-2-FOR-SEALING-TANKING-MEMBRANE-PLUG-FIXINGS-4-75MTRS-/281070630745?hash=item41711d7759:g:UyoAAOSw~1FUYhre

Very easy to use - just cut with scissors, very sticky - sticks to nearly anything including exterior plastics, waterproof and temperature stable.
 
Did you use at exterior on the wheel arches? What color is it and how does it look? Can you post some pics please?
 
I've used it on exterior wheel arches in a BMW yes, it's black and is like a thin rope around 1-2cm thick, you can roll it and shape it like play-dough. I'll try and find the photos this evening.
 
But that black exterior is not sticky right? (attracting all Sands, little rocks from the road)? :)
 
The whole thing is sticky! But as its a "sealant" too you can use it as a sort of protective edging so that water cannot get behind it and I suppose anything exposed could be covered with something like clear plastic sheeting like the door membranes are; I suggested this as most conventional glues like to soak into felts and foams really easily and make it hard to use. But the butyl absorbs nothing and is like a putty instead.

If you mean the arch plastic then you just need some surface prep - Jetwash and then rub down with alcohol wipes and dry.

This is what I mean by covering - i replaced the membranes on the accord and used butyl rope to seal them as I have no idea what they use in the factory (the stuff that the plastic sheet is pressed against);
UtfY1wG.jpg
 
So guys, I need some more help!!!

Any way of removing the covers from the rear seats? I want to stuff thinsulate into their backs... Any way of doing that without damaging the seats?

darcus
 
Hi peeps,

My quest for the ever quieter Accord continues...

I stumbled on something quite by mistake.

I have been using 6mm EPDM round sponge cord in all the door seals...

1. Get a fish wire. I picked up a nylon one from Screwfix, relatively cheap.
2. Use silicone grease (DO NOT USE LITHIUM!) on the fish wire.
3. Run the fish wire through a door seal:
a) remove the seal carefully from the door.
B) on one of the corners, there is usually an opening.
c) insert fish wire here and spray grease into it as you feed it through.
d) When the fish wire comes out the same hole as you've fed it round the seal, clean the end, and tape the EPDM cord to it. If you can get rubber tubing, that's even better.
e) Get your mate to pull the fish wire slowly as the epdm cord goes through. Keep spraying the feeding end with grease.
f) Once out the other end, make sure everything is nice and straight and any 'stretch' in the cord has been reduced.
g) cut surplus
h) reapply the seal.
i) enjoy rejuvenated springy door seal!

The thing I stumbled on is this: There is a bonnet seal that you can add this epdm cord to. if you open the bonnet, its the seal closest to the windscreen, which is mounted vertically - it removes very easily. Give it a good clean and follow the above method with the EPDM cord. It makes a WORLD of difference to engine noise.

I reckon my seal had compressed over time (10 years) and it needed a bit more 'strength'. The EPDM cord has helped improve it's structure and it's doing quite nicely.

Really helped reduce the overall sound that came up from the front. I can now hardly hear my engine...

I did use Thinsulate in between the bonnet and bonnet soundproofing - as well as adding a D-seal on the left and right of the bonnet - to give it a better seal. I did not seal the front - air has got to get in some how eh! I did this in the summer - the bonnet seal was only done a few weeks ago and my wife even commented she couldn't hear the engine...

Just need to fix the driver door alignment (it's dropped by 3mm) and i'll have a better door seal.

BTW - I figured out how to remove the cover from the seat - you just reach under it, pull a bit out and you'll find a zipper, which can promptly unzip. Just remember to tuck everything back in where it belongs.

Have fun peeps!

darcus
 
Nice work! I had a leak in my Accord and ended up getting new seals which fixed the problem but also had the benefit of reducing noise :)
 
Nice work. Got any pictures Darcus?
 
Last weekend before Japfest I finish mine.

4 x Doors - bitum 2mm
4 x wheelarch - foam 10mm
2 x front wings - bitum 2mm
2 x rear wings - bitum 2mm + foam 10mm
Trunck - center bitum and foam+bitum on sides

It cost me about 150 pounds and I jump from 55-60 decibels to 40-45 decibels... measured with same phone with warm engine - stationary. Otherwise, depend a lot from quality of asphalt, traffic etc.


Photos here: http://imgur.com/a/5hkgs

Video here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c8MSPieq4VM
 
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