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Steering make loud creaking squeeking noises!

L

lou151991

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London
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accord type r 2000
Hi guys, back again! lol

so recently ive been getting this noise normally at low speeds such as parking/pulling up and it is getting quite annoying.

So ive decided i want to completely fix up all stupid noises and noises or wateva i hear for my suspension.

here is the link to my initial problem

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u3sEirka8_o


This seems to get worse on the front left side as a passenger sits in front with me!




On top of all that stuff, i get small knocks of metal/plastic kind hitting each other. sound can be repetitive if i go over a BRICKY road at low speeds. i would have to go less than 5mph to lessen the noises.
I have changed my drop links all round and anti roll bar bushes all around. I hear some people suggest ball joints and control arms, etc.

Would like to ask anyone about the general knowledge of suspension, should i jus look for the part thats bad to replace? or would it be recommended to get a set of all to replace with each other. eg. rod tie ends, control arms, wishbones blahblah.

Honda acord type r 2000. loads of rust built up underneath car suspension parts.
 
That noise is one/both of your bottom balljoints. I had that exact same noise a couple months ago, and it was my nearside bottom balljoint and I ended up changing them both.

Simple enough fix. After taking off the hub, you won't be able to press out the balljoints due to the hubs shape so you have to remove the retaining clip and then belt them out with a hammer and chisel. Once out, clean any rust off the surface and put a thin layer of grease on there to help the new ones slide in. You will need to hammer in the new ones, but be careful not to damage the joint and only hammer the edges of the joint with a small punch, as the center is soft and easily punctured. Also, it's worth getting new self-retaining nuts (they have a blue inner thread) for things like the upper arm/trackrod etc. The reason is the original retaining pins will most likely be impossible to remove due to corrosion, so the only option is to undo the nut with as much as the pin removed possible (this destroys the nuts thread) and then file away any excess pin then fit the retaining nuts.

If I remember rightly, my new balljoints were £30 each and the labour I did myself.

Oh, and be careful removing the ABS sensor as its a PITA. Once removed, clean and grease the inner edge like you should with the hub, but DO NOT get grease on the sensor.

Edit: Forgot to add! If you want to check the bottom balljoints first, get the car on a ramp and have it high enough so that the drooping front wheel will just touch your shoulder. Then, get you shoulder underneath the wheel and push up with your legs. Any play means they are buggered, or like mine you will probably hear a clunk. You could use your chest too if you can only use a jack, but please use axle stands!
 
wow Blue VTEC thanks for the quick reply. and sorry about my late reply lol.

seeing as you sound amazingly confident, i went ahead and bought the whole front set upper and lower ball joints.

I realised that my passenger front tyre has a slow puncture. I pumped it properly and nomore creaks and wotnot. maybe because of the pressure it had when it wasnt pumped.

Either way, as soon as i install these ball joints, i will get back on here to see if its still there!

BTW, due to changing that tyre today, the mechanic said my crankshaft pulley had a tiny chip on the outer side. ONLY A TINY part of that i can see the PS belt, however it cannot damage it.
he said he knew i changed my belt by the condition of it, and that was wat was wearing out my previous belt. either way, it isnt completely damaged - more like it has more chance of wearing the belt quicker.

So i was researchin afew and tbh i need a direct opinion. . should i try go for the lightweight( not going to skimp on these ) crankshaft pulleys ? apparently ppl get more free-er revs etc and thats what i LOVE!

However these are really hard to come across OEM brand new, only to find on Lings Honda Parts that it is £300 upwards -_-.

Are the other H22 series using the same crankshaft pulleys? I have aircon and power steering if that helps.

THANKS!
 
It's likely the deflated tyre might have put more strain on that corner, but either way that noise is metal on metal binding together and is not right so something is definetely wrong.

As for the pulley, is it the out lip that is chipped? If so, just leave it as it is nothing to worry about.

My daily 6G is a 2.0 with a chipped bottom pulley. It was like that when I bought it at 62k miles, and has caused me no problems even though the car is on nearly 300k and I've two belt changes and had no excessive wear etc.

My other 6G has a ATR H22A7. When I first did the swap, I dropped it in as is with 90k miles and a chipped bottom pulley...again, no problems!

To summarise, if the belt is sitting straight and true and there is no pulley wobble (common on H22's) then leave it. It is not dangerous nor will it cause excessive belt wear.

If you are determuned to go for lightweight pulleys, then I can recommend XTD pulleys which is the company I used for the bottom, top and auxillary pulleys when I rebuilt and tuned my H22. I should say though, you won't notice any difference in response with just a lighter bottom pulley. The best way to lose rotational weight is to fit a lightened and balanced flywheel. Don't go too far though as reducing the rotational mass too much will cause a lumpy idle and no engine braking, basically meaning it will ruin the smoothness of the car driving.
 
I agree with blue vtec. Its 100% your lower ball joints.
Don't worry about ur upper ball joints if theres no play. To check for play do as follows.
Slightly raise the car,
Then you can see the upper wishbone.
Grab the metal that you can see that joins to the upper wishbone ball joint to the hub.
Now really push and pull it, if it moves or rattles the you need to change upper wishbone ball joint ;)
 
SORRY for the late update!

You both are right it was my lower ball joint, ended up being the front left!

You guys could not have been any more helpful i am grateful for the help :) It's great to know there's helpful people out here..

I learn more each and every day!

you guys are great :) Cheers


Next step: Poly Front Engine Mount. - whats your thoughts on these guys?
 
Well done guys!

Cheers for coming back to the thread Lou and letting us know the outcome, most folk don't bother and you never know if the problem was fixed!

Don't know about your engine mount, sorry!
 
Glad you got it sorted Lou. Poly front mounts are worthwhile if you are driving it hard, but other than that keep it oem because poly mounts will put more vobration into the cabin and pedal box.
 
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