sticky brakes

[mckinneyderry]

I have a 2004 2.0i Honda accord. The brakes are a problem. First the back brakes were sticking, and the mechanic changed both rear calipers. But this did not solve the problem, the back brakes continue to stick. It has gotten worse over time and now the front brakes are also sticking. Its intermitting I could drive for 30 mins and it could be OK then all of a sudden the brake panel feels different and you can feel it holding the car back.
What could this be?
Is it the abs pump or could it be the servo?
Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks

 

[mwahab]

Sticking slider pins are notorious on some Jap cars, I would start there. Check that the rear pads don't have a locator pin on the backing plate. I had uneven wear on my pads due to this.

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

 

[freddofrog]

It depends whether the car is saloon or tourer, the caliper and pads are very different, tourer is much simpler but is more problematic if not maintained regularly.

As said above you often get the wrong pads fitted, especially on the tourer. Also the "sliders" need cleaning and proper silicone grease, otherwise the caliper will not move properly, this is true of both front and back brakes

read this thread from here onwards http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/19289-rear-brake-bind-please-help/?p=209901

and this thread from here onwards http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/20608-rear-brakehandbrake-issues-continue/?p=221138

 

[mckinneyderry]

I have cleaned and greased the sliders, pushed pistons in and out. The brake discs have been in the car the past 2 years and it has only become a problem the past 2 months.
Its a saloon petrol.
Sometimes if you touch the brake paddle it would put you out the window other times its soft as if there's air in the system, but I have had the system flushed out and this hasn't changed anything.

 

[mark r]

same problem on my 2007 20 petrol tourer i changed the rear flexi hose on both sides and sorted the sticking brakes turns out the inner of the hose breaks down and causes the blockage hope this helps

 

[freddofrog]

That's been mentioned several times in the past, some people do this, but more often it's not necessary, not needed it on my 7th gen which I've owned for 10 years now.

Several people with a tourer (including me) check the rear pads every 6 months and clean out all the crud to make sure the pads are not sticking in the bracket/carrier, along with sliders this is the most common cause of hot brakes.

 

[mckinneyderry]

How long has it been since you changed the brake hoses.
Did you have any problems with the front brakes or the brake paddle?

 

[Heckler]

As probably mentioned... regular maintenance is required... That means stripping them back and cleaning them up every 12 months... NEVER... and I cannot stress this enough... NEVER use copper grease, use a ceramic one like ceretec. Also when cleaning, check seals on the slider pins and any sign of wear/corrosion on them. These are the most likely starting point for any binding issues (unless they fitted the wrong pads).

I'd also recommend checking for any casting marks on the pads themselves... if there's a slight rough edge/ridge around the outside edge of the pads this can also cause problems.

Also worth noting that replacing the pads does not affect the handbrake shoes which are located within the hub of the rear brake discs (possibly a Tourer only thing).

If the sliders aren't the cause, then remove the pads and press the brake pedal down a little to extend the piston out and check for corrosion on that (check the seals at the same time) before winding them back in and resetting the brakes.

It's not the end of the world, you can get a pair of refurbished callipers and new slider pins for about £130-140, and a garage will charge you about £50-70 to change them.

 

[freddofrog]

Sometimes if you touch the brake paddle it would put you out the window other times its soft as if there's air in the system, but I have had the system flushed out and this hasn't changed anything.

just another thought, if that is the main problem, most of the braking is done at the front, so I guess it's more likely to be an issue with the front brakes or with the ABS modulator