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Sudden serious clutch trouble

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bimble7116

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Location
Ilminster Somerset
Car
2006 Tourer 2.2CDTi
Guys,

Hoping for some intel and know how on a sudden - unexpected clutch snag on my 2006 CDTi tourer. The car has 118,000 miles on it - superbly maintained with main dealer servicing all its life.

It's been going fine until yesterday. I'd been driving it - all well, then after sitting parked for a couple of hours, I couldn't select any gears. The clutch action felt largely normal - checked fluid level - full - tried pumping the clutch - no change. To move the car I had to stop the engine, then select a gear. With the clutch fully down it's possible to feel the car (very slightly) sort of tremble as if it's trying to move but can't quite.

To select bottom or reverse gears - has to be done with the engine stopped then start afterwards. On the move it will select mid range gears reluctantly - by picking engine revs. I nursed it home gently.

The previous owner had a genuine complete new clutch fitted 20,000 miles ago by the main dealer that's serviced the car since new- so it's very surprising to be having this problem...? Notably the invoice for that job shows the DMF was not replaced.

I feel that the clutch cover has failed - possibly the release bearing too - but before I roll up sleeves and start digging the gearbox out of it - can anyone please offer some thoughts on whether I'm missing anything?

Any suggestions/ideas gratefully received.

With best regards

Andy H
 
Insufficient travel on the clutch arm, meaning it's not disengaging the clutch properly.

I'd ***ume your biting point's been right near the floor recently.

Bleeding the clutch would be my first port of call if you reckon the clutch has plenty of friction material.

On my wife's '01 civic I made a new push rod to enable us to use up all of the friction material before I fitted a new clutch. That was 3 years ago, and we still haven't got to the rivets!
 
Thanks GLM

I will be checking the pushrod/slave cylinder operation first. The clutch pedal action doesn't feel like it has air in the system - and the clutch biting point wasn't right at the bottom...much nearer the middle...? All of which makes me think that the failure is with the clutch itself - despite it having done so few miles.

It's galling - and has come at a difficult time - loads of pressure on my time for a variety of reasons. Fortunately I have access to other cars - and thankful for that. Will post back with an update
 
Other things it could be are a failed seal in the clutch slave or master cylinder, but then I'd expect nothing on the end of the clutch pedal after a few pumps.

Or it could've broken some fingers on the pressure plate, which will stop the clutch levering away from the flywheel completely. It'll still feel relatively normal on the pedal, but the pedal will feel like it's dropped.

If you do end up putting in a new clutch, my replacement motor had a nearly new LUK DMF pressure plate and friction plate.

The car had a brand new clutch and DMF on it too, so I ended up with two nearly new sets of everything.

If you do the job yourself, give me a shout.
 
Doesnt sound like a dmf issue and way too soon for the pressure plate to fail.

Perhaps your slave/master has failed, but then surely the pedal would go straight to the floor...i would press the clutch pedal and get someone to confirm full travel on slave.if the slave is working fine it could be a stuck ungreased release bearing which is reducing the force applied to the pressure plate or the original install was dodgy, but then why is the issue only happening now.

Buy a cheap inspection camera and stick it down the release fork hole in the bell housing and see what's going on, you can even eye ball this without one.
 
Thanks fellas.

Good luck monkey - hope you see this - as I'd like to talk to you about buying your spare clutch and DMF. Could you email me please? My address is dunhookin@yahoo.co.uk Thank you

Bit more of an update. The movement on the clutch actuating arm looks to be correct - having compared it with a friend's 2.2 diesel CRV - the movement on his is the same as mine. So that largely eliminates a hydraulic issue - though that said, the fluid is very dark coloured so it does look as though there's some seal deterioration in the master or slave cylinders - or both! There is a distinctive creaking noise coming from the bell housing when the clutch pedal is depressed - so next step is to block the car up and get the gearbox out.

I've done a bit of research and found that the trade allow 7 hours for a clutch change on diesel Accords - considering that's with a ramp and air tools - it's clearly a bit of a dockyard job - deep joy. Will post back with what's caused a genuine Honda clutch ***embly to fail after 18 months and less than 20,000 miles.

Regards

Andy H
 
Sent you an email Andy.
 
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